KEEPING BEES

Wairarapa Times-Age, 14 October 1940, Page 9

KEEPING BEES

A PROFITABLE SIDELINE SKILL AND PATIENCE NEEDED. MEANS OF INCREASING INCOME. Bees form a very interesting hobby and a profitable sideline which in suitable districts could be built up into one of the major sources of farm income. They are also of value in that they tend to increase the clover seed and the fruit crops, by fertilisation of the flowers, states the latest agricultural bulletin prepared by the Canterbury Agricultural College, Lincoln, and published by the Canterbury Chamber of Commerce. Beekeeping is one of the methods by which a farmer can diversify his production, increase his income and decrease his living expenditure. It is an occupation suitable for young or old, rich or poor, men or women, who may seek profit and pleasure from its pursuit. At present there are in New Zealand approximately 5,000 beekeepers, and as much as two million pounds of honey has been exported in one year. The farmer should not launch out on too big a scale immediately, but should gain experience by starting with one or two colonies and becoming acquainted with the rudiments of the art. The spring is the most suitable time to start, and early October is the best month. Nothing is gained by obtaining colonies during the winter when the bees are dormant. Arrangements should be made early with some local beekeeper to supply colonies at the above-mentioned time. This, however, is an expensive method of starting, since the price of a colony is usually about 255, to which must be added the price of the hive body and frames with which the colony must be equipped, making a total of 35s per hive. Owing to other beekeepers’ bad management, it is often possible to take swarms which may settle on the trees of one’s own farm, and this would be a much cheaper method 'of starting. However, if the colonies are obtained from some reliable beekeeper it is possible to get a guarantee that the colonies supplied are strong and healthy and they are more likely to be of a less vicious type. LOCATION OF HIVES. One cannot stress too strongly the importance of placing the hives in a suitable site. They should be placed on the north side of some low shelter and be well protected from wind. High windbreaks are usually unsatisfactory, being draughty underneath and too high for heavily-laden bees to fly over. On no account should hives be placed in the shade of a hedge. Under these circumstances the bees tend to be more vicious and have less chance of surviving the winter. The . hive should be set up with a slight cant forwards. This allows any rain which may have driven in to drain out the front. Damp conditions in the hive may cause a certain amount of mouldiness. It is also necessary to set up the hive on four bricks to allow free, circulation of air underneath, and to prevent rotting of the bottom board. Naturally, the grass round the hives should be kept scythed. Several styles of frames are procurable, but the “Hoffman,” because it is self-spacing, is the most popular. The wiring of frames and setting the foundation comb on to the wires necessitates skill, and the prospective beekeeper should get some practical instruction from one who has had experience. The top super should be covered by a light sacking mat placed underneath the roof of the hive. As the season advances, a single hive body will be insufficient for a colony and further stories, or supers as they are called, must be added to supply space for storage of honey and to avoid overcrowding of the bees. For those who do not wish to go to the expense of buying manufactured supers it may be mentioned that an ordinary petrol case is the exact size of the standard hive used in New Zealand and is easily converted for the purpose. USE OF THE SMOKER. A white coat rather than one of dark material should be worn, since white is less irritant to the bees. An important detail which is often neglected is to put the cuffs of one's trousers into the tops of one’s socks. Bees shaken on the ground have a tendency to crawl upwards, with results somewhat demoralising to the operator. It is known that if, by any means, a colony of bees becomes thoroughly alarmed, the dominant impulse of the bees is to rush to the nearest open cell and fill up their stomachs. In a full-fed condition the bee is docile and can be handled with ease. Smoke is used for this purpose. If too much is used the opposite effect is obtained and the bees become vicious. When examining a hive it is necessary to give only two or three puffs into the entrance and, having removed the cover, to puff a little smoke into the top as the cover mat is peeled back. One can then set to work manipulating the frames. If the bees tend to come up to the top of the frames ready to launch into the air they should be driven down with one or two puffs of smoke. Sacking is the best fuel for the smoker. The use -of oily waste should bo avoided. RULES WORTH NOTING. Some rules which should be observed are: 1. When manipulating frames all movements should be deliberate, without jarring or bumping. It may be said that the right touch is necessary. 2. Wear light-coloured clothing, preferably white, and avoid black and fuzzy material. 3. Never stand in the line of flight of the bees but work from the back or sides of the hive. 4. Never handle bees on cold, dull or showery days. 5. Never strike at a bee, but, if without the protection of a veil, bow the head and walk quietly away. 6. Be careful not to injure or kill any bees, as this tends to enrage the whole colony. 7. Wash with plain soap rather than with carbolic or scented soap, and

if possible avoid sweating as this is distateful to bees.

Honey for export is graded, and the quality depends largely on the type of flower which the bees visit. The Bee Inspector, Department of Agriculture, can be consulted on this matter. Everyone keeping bees must notify the inspector for registration and inspection purposes. To prepare honey for sale, an extractor is required. If the farmer is intending to produce only enough honey for his own use, then it would not be worth his while investing in a honey extractor, the cheapest of which is about £7 13s. He should concentrate more on the production of section honey, i.e., honey in square lib combs. This necessitates that each super added should contain ten section frames costing 2s for 10. Each section frame will contain 8 sections costing 8s 6d per 100. The lowest storey of the hive, sometimes called the brood chamber, should contain ten of the ordinary Hoffman frames, costing 3s for ten. SWARMING TROUBLES. It will not be long after the beginner has received his bees in the late spring that he can expect to meet the swarming problem and to deal with swarms. Although it is not considered good practice to allow swarming to occur, the owner might wish to increase the number of colonies in his possession and will welcome a first swarm. In general, the swarming season may be expected in the spring or early summer shortly after the time the bees have produced the greatest amount of brood. Swarming is the bees natural method of forming new colonies and this desire to swarm is usually brought about or encouraged by the congestion of the bees in the hive, especially within the brood chamber, and by lack of ventilation. Colonies with old queens are also more likely to swarm than those having young queens. Where convenient, a prepared hive with the cover removed may be placed directly beneath the swarm. There should not be more than two or three feet between the swarm and the hive. Some of the frames should be removed to allow space for the swarm to be dropped in. Take a firm hold of the branch on which the bees are situated and give it a sharp jerk when most or all of the bees will fall into the hive. If one has to use a step-ladder to get up to the swarm it may be necessary to use a special swarming box, which consists of a box about 14 inches square by 12 inches deep with a hinged top. This is light and can easily be held in one arm while using the free hand to shake the branch. The bees can then be transferred to a hive at dusk. Some of the earlier swarming colonies are capable of throwing off one or two afterswarms. If possible, this must be prevented, otherwise the parent colonies will become weak and unproductive. PROBABLE HONEY RETURN. No matter what is done, it is not always possible to prevent swarming, and when increase is not wanted swarming is a nuisance. If it is known from which hive the swarm issued, the trouble may be overcome by returning the swarm. Take it in the usual way and hive it immediately alongside the parent hive. Next morning go through the latter and cull out all queen cells, care being taken not to miss any. Then place the swarm with its hive body as a top super on the original hive and close down. At the beginning of May in each hive there should not be less than one full super of honey. Unless absolutely necessary, it is not advisable to meddle with the hives during winter. Naturally, one of the questions asked by those who contemplate taking up bee-keeping is what may be the annual amount of honey which can be expected from each colony. Much depends upon the skill and patience of the bee-man, but. other factors, such as location, climatic conditions and regularity of feed supply, also play a major part. Under favourable condi-1 tions with reasonable care and skill, | from lOOlbs to 2001bs of honey may j be obtained. |