THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Wairarapa Times-Age, 2 October 1940, Page 9

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

THE MAIN WORK. The main work in the vegetable garden at the present time is sowing, planting, thinning, and hoeing. Growth is coming on steadily, and no doubt will respond as soon as we get regular warm weather. Thinning seedling is a most important operation, for if the plants are left to become Crowded there is a struggle for light hnd air above, and for water and plant food below the ground, and the seedlings become drawn and spindly, and never produce a satisfactory crop. The operation should be carried out at two stages, first as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, and later on in about three weeks, when it is possible to pick out the healthiest and best placed plants. In the case of white turnips, the first thinning is two inches, and the second to from four to six. As the roots can be used as soon as they are two inches across further thinning can be done as they are required for the kitchen, and the whole lot will have to be used before they become stringy. Golden Ball turnips are thinned to six inches at the second thinning, and swedes to nine inches. Early carrots are thinned to two inches at first, and afterwards as the roots are required for use, but the maincrop varieties are left at from six to nine inches to mature. Parsnips are thinned to nine to twelve inches, parsley to two inches, and spinach to six inches, as soon as the first leaves are fit for use. The aim in the vegetable garden should not be to grow large specimens of any kind, except onions, but to grow those of medium size and to use them when young and tender. Even when grown for exhibition size is not so important as quality. Lettuce are thinned out to two inches, and afterwards as the seedlings develop one or two rows can be transplanted, which will leave the crop at six inches apart. The transplanted ones will receive a check, and consequently will be available after those left where sown are used. In every case cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, savoys and kale are transplanted, the seedlings being grown in a well-cultivated plot, but if they are sown too thickly and they germinate well, the seedlings should be thinned out to at least an inch apart to allow for the development of the leaves and fibrous roots, which are so important when transplanting. Scuffle hoeing is a most important operation, and if a weeder is used, which cuts both ways, and it is kept clean and sharp, the work is not heavy, and it is much easier to stand erect and hoe than stoop or kneel and weed. By running through among growingcrops as soon as the soil dries after every heavy shower, the surface soil is kept open, air is admitted, and germinating weeds cut off in their infancy. By using the hoe carefully it is possible to work in among the plants in the rows as well as between rows, and all footprints are removed after thinning. Scuffle hoeing is better done on a sunny morning, so that weeds may be shrivelled up at once. Hoeing up, or earthing up, is also a very important operation, in the cultivation of potatoes, and it should be done at two periods, taking great care to pull the soil up under the leaves and not over them. Peas and beans are also earthed up a bit before staking, cabbage and other brassicas have the soil drawn up round them to steady them; and leeks are earthed up to blanch them. Stakes should be provided for peas as soon as they are two or three inches tall, and these should provide for growth of at least a foot more than is

stated on the packet when they are liberally manured and carefully cultivated. Twiggy branches of either spruce or manuka are very satisfactory, and failing either of these broom will do, if the thin, twiggy ends are cut off. Netting, when supported by stout stakes, can be used. The stakes should be sharpened so that they may be pushed in firmly. The writer has used this method in Masterton for twenty-five years and has found it most successful. The wire netting, which is attached to the stakes, can be used year after year. Stakes for runner beans should be at least eight feet tall free of scrubby branches, for the beans climb by twining round their support, and they should be put in in a double row, crossing one another near the top, where they can be fastened to a stick to keep them in position. Birds are very hard on seedlings of lettuce,, peas, turnips and beet, but fortunately they can be frightened away with strands of black cotton stretched along each side of the rows, and about two inches above the soil surpace. Wire guards are also useful for protecting peas during autumn and winter, for when fresh greens are scarce birds will dare the dangers of black cotton to get at them. When slugs are troublesome, which is usually during wet weather, freshly slaked lime can be dusted along the sides of the rows of the plants they are found of, this being renewed from timeto time, for it loses its effectiveness when it gets wet. It has already been suggested stimulating the growth of seedlings with applications of weak liquid manure made by dissolving a dessertspoonful of sulphate of ammonia in a gallon of water?