GRAPE VINES

Wairarapa Times-Age, 10 July 1940, Page 9

GRAPE VINES

CORRECT PRUNING TIME. . The correct time to prune the grapevine is indicated by the falling leaves, and it is better to wait until the vines are bare before pruning. Do not delay the work after leaves have fallen: late pruning does not give the cut surfaces a chance to heal before the sap begins to rise again, and the rising sap oozes from the cut surfaces, weakening the vine. This is known as "bleeding.” Use a sharp knife and work methodically. The main stems are known as rods and the side growths as laterals. It is the latter which require priming. To make pruning easier, the vine should, be untied from its supports and laid along the ground. Each lateral should be cut back to within one or two eyes of the base. Some prefer to leave more than two eyes in case one should be damaged; then after growth has started, the weaker shoots can be rubbed off. Burn all the primings immediately. If the vine has not grown to the top of the greenhouse, the main stem should be pruned back to within two feet of the previous year’s growth. This may mean cutting off considerable growth, but it is necessary to encourage more laterals to form higher up the rod. The laterals should- not be less than 12 inches apart. The next thing to do is to clean off the old rough bark. First lay sacks on the ground to catch falling insects and so prevent them from getting into the borders and finding their way back again lo the rods. Each year the vine makes a new coating of bark. This new bark is light brown and fits lightly but after a year of growth it loosens and charges io a dark brown. Insect pests hide in the crevices of the bark. The old bark is easily removed by gripping the rod in the hands, working them up and down until the old bark comes away. Next give the rods a dressing with a good insecticide and after gathering up the sacking and burning the debris, give the house a thorough wash down with carbolic soap.