MILITARYN INFLUENCE

Wairarapa Times-Age, 18 March 1940, Page 5

MILITAR YN INFLUENCE

UNION BLUE NEW WAR COLOUR

Attempting to avoid black, because of its drabness, as a complement to uniform, a London fabric house launches a new pale blue, called “union blue,” and claimed to be the perfect colour companion for every uniform. Jaeqmar—working six months ahead because of supply difficulties—predicts a bright Wellington scarlet for autumn. The military influence is also responsible for buttons resembling miniature forage caps, and a new fabric embroidered, with hearts and service caps. Other fabrics include a new silk woven after a tweed weave process,which costs 60s per yard.

peasant blouses; their skirts are fitting to the knees, and then soften into impressed pleats.

Elaborate bustles went out as soon as war came in. A slight bustle suggestion, however, appears in a modified form. Skirt fullness is often pulled up behind into a tiny bow; a dinner frock will have a fishtail fall to break its pencil straight skirt line. Apron panels make their bow either as a modification of the tunic line or as a feminine touch as brief and saucy as the goffered aprons French maids wear on the English stage. Smooth materials have replaced the elaborate weaves which distinguished last season's collections. There are quantities of smooth sheer romaines, wool georgettes, and wool voiles; a certain amount of new fabric called “bouillonne,” which looks as if it is shirred with elastic thread. This is often used for blouse and hip yokes. Molyneux's prints are typical of them all. They arc usually made up of groups of blurred lines superimposed on a pastel ground. Schiaparelli is the exception. Her prints are still amusing—recognisable as kangaroos, or sailors’ hats, or Indian papooses—even though they are placed with the same regularity and neatness as the metre conventional lines and unrecognisable squiggles.

The New Colours. Colours are as restrained as fabrics and prints. Cyclamens, magentas, and bougainvilleas are finished. Nearest to them is a soft heather colour—-infinitely more becoming—and a lie de vin which looks like raspberries mashed up with lots of cream. Blue makes a come-back'. Schiaparelli gives it a boost by launching a new perfume which she calls “Sleeping.” If is put up in containers made like a night light and enamelled the clear light blue winch she has christened “Sleeping,” too. Maize coinin' is dimmed down 1o a pale vellum shade. There is a good deal of clear crocus yellow and azalea pink as brighter versions of these flowerinspired pastels. Accessories play up to the trend by their very discretion. It has boon Jolt Io the big stores to launch miniatures of a French soldier’s equipment as charms to hang on a lapel. The great couturiers are rather inclined to ignore such things. Biggest concession is a half-knihed microscopic khaki sock, hanging from pin-size gold noodles, to be worn on pocket or lapel. Hardly one house has boon able to resist I his trifle.