SOWING OF SEEDS

Wairarapa Times-Age, 26 January 1940, Page 8

SOWING OF SEEDS

PROPAGATION FROM CUTTINGS. The very high stage of perfection to which modern seed strains of pansies have been brought has undoubtedly resulted in greater interest than ever being shown in these old favourites. Good strains there have been for many years, but it is only recently that they have been worked up to such a pitch that one may reasonably expect a high proportion of flowers fully up to exhibition standard from a packet of really good seed. What is more, the habit of these modern, strains undoubtedly marks an improvement. Pansies are not yet comparable with violas in this respect, but the best of the present-day types do not straggle to anything like the same extent as older varieties.

It is as well to point out, however, that it is only from the very finest quality seeds that tip-top results can be expected. The development of a seed strain involves careful selection and rogueing over a period of many years before it is made available to the public, and every year the same process must be continued, for, if vigilance were relaxed, it would only be a matter of a year or so before reversion to a nondescript, type of bloom took place. The initial cost of even the finest quality of seed is not high, and it is folly to economise to the extent of a few pence in the first place when such false economy means the difference il does. An Ideal Time. The present is an ideal time for sowing in cold frames, and the plants raised from a sowing made now will be ideal for planting out in spring. By then they will have developed sufficient growth to commence flowering straight away, and, providing there is no collapse on account of very hot weather, they should continue throughout the season. This is more than can be expected with plants raised from a sowing made in warmth in the spring.

It is really best to winter summersown plants in a frame, though it is not essential on soils which are thoroughly drained. Pansies, even in the early stages, are as often as not quite hardy, providing they are not subjected to stagnant moisture around the roots during the cold months. It is always best to sow in boxes or pans, using a compost of loam, peat or leaf moulds, and sand. The seed should be very thinly sown, and covered- with a sprinkling of fine soil, and then firmed with a flat piece of wood. To maintain | a close atmosphere and reduce the I need for watering, it is advisable to cover the boxes over with a piece of

glass and some brown paper, and to keep the frames fairly close. Germination, as a rule, is rapid, and within a very few weeks the seedlings will be seen spearing through the surface, when all coverings may be removed, in order to give them full exposure to light and air. Where a cold frame is not available it is a simple matter to improvise one in order to facilitate germination. A good stout box placed on the soil, with a sheet of glass large enough to cover it over entirely, will serve admirably, and, if it is large enough, the plants may even be wintered therein. Pricking out is a job that must not be delayed. Just as soon as the seedlings have formed their first rough leaves, they must be transferred to otner boxes or to a specially-made-up bed in a frame, allowing them two to three inches of room each way. This* time use rather more loam in the compost—say. two parts to one of leafmould and a half-part of sand —and place in the bottom of the boxes or bed, about an inch depth of spent hops. This will not encourage rank growth, and it will help the plants to form a really good root system. Again, they may be kept close for a few days after pricking out, but when once they have recovered from the shift, the aim should be to keep them as healthy and hardy as possible. Give them lull exposure to light and air whenever possible, and use the frame lights only when frost, snow or overheavy rain threatens. Increase by Cuttings. Many amateurs who already possess a stock of plants will no doubt have some of which they are particularly proud, and which they would like to increase by vegetative means, thus ensuring their reproduction true to type. With such plants, too, the present is a good time to make a start. The first thing is to go over the plants and cut back all straggly growths, at the same time removing all flowers. This will rapidly encourage the’formation of strong young shoots from the base, which will make the ideal type of cuttings. Those about the thickness of a slate pencil, providing they show no trace of hollowness in the stem, are ideal, and should be taken about two to three inches in. length. They are then trimmed in the usual, manner, the bottom leaves are removed, and they are cut off immediately below a joint with a very sharp knife. In the meantime a cutting bed should be prepared in a frame. A similar compost to that used for seed sowing will serve ideally, and in it the cuttings can be dibbled in, in rows four inches apart, allowing three inches between the cuttings in the row. If the frame is kept close, it will not be long before top growth evidences the fact that roots have been formed when increasing quantities of air may be admitted. Like seedlings, cuttings rooted now will make ideal plants for putting out in their flowering quarters in the spring or in April in favoured districts.

Fortunately, the pansy is not greaty subject to pests, and one result of raising from seeds is that the plants are kept vigorous and healthy. Aphis is sometimes troublesome, infesting the undersides of the leaves and points of the shoots. Dusting with tobacco

powder is good, so also spraying or syringing with soft soap and water—an ounce to the gallon. Viola rust is the worst disease, and, when severe, the plants should be pulled up and burnt. Mild attacks may be treated with a fungicide.

Although it is a long time yet before planting will even be contemplated, a word on the preparation of the soil will not be amiss, for there are few amateurs who realise the absolute need for deep and thorough digging with all members of the pansy and viola family. The plants are naturally deep rooting; they will, if given a chance, quite easily delve down to two or three feet. What is more, they have an abhorrence of parched soil conditions. It is only by deep digging that they can be given an opportunity of rooting down away from the influence of parching sunshine. Partial collapse of plants in the summer is invariably due to nothing more nor less than shallow and insufficient preparation of the soil. —Lothian in Amateur Gardening.