LURE OF AN IRIS GARDEN

Wairarapa Times-Age, 12 January 1940, Page 3

LURE OF AN IRIS GARDEN

GLORIES OF THE TALL BEARDED FLAGS. Unlike most herbaceous perennials, bearded irises commence a new period of growth practically in the middle of the summer. If a plant is lifted as the flowers fade, it will be found that new roots are appearing from the rhizomes. These may be anything from half-inch to one inch in length, thick and white, and giving every indication of rapid growth. It is just at this critical period that these irises can be transplanted most successfully for these new roots will very quickly anchor the plants in their new situations, and enable them to grow into sturdy clumps by the autumn. If planting is deferred until April, little root action will take place until the following spring, and there will be a grave danger that, in consequence, many roots may decay during the winter.

Spring planting is fairly satisfactory as far as root formation is concerned, but suffers from the serious drawback that the plant will not be strong enough to .produce flowers the first summer. It is for this reason that most iris specialists recommend early January as the ideal planting time. If the work is delayed any later, the new roots will have grown so long that it will be almost impossible to lift them without breaking.

Lifting and Purchasing.

It is not, of course, necessary, or even advisable, to lift and replant bearded irises every year. Given satisfactory soil conditions and a favourable situation, with plenty of room, there is no reason why an iris clump should not continue to flower satisfactorily without disturbance for four or. five years. Sooner or later, however, there will come a time when overcrowding of growth and exhaustion of the soil will result in a gradual falling-off in the quantity and quality of the flowers produced. This is a signal that lifting and division have become imperative. Then there is the question of purchasing new varieties, either with the purpose of starting a collection, or of keeping one’s, stock up to date. AU iris specialists are prepared to supply sturdy young plants at this time of the year, and it is undoubtedly the best period to obtain them, not only for the reasons already stated, but also because the varieties will be still fresh in one’s memory after the flowering season.

Soil and Position.

In spite of all that has been written on the subject, there is still some misapprehension as to the ideal soil an situation for bearded irises. It cannot be stated too emphatically that, although these plants will survive in badly-drained soils and shady positions, they only tolerate such conditions, and do not thrive upon them. Indeed, their true requirements are exactly the reverse.' for. to see bearded irises at their best they must be planted in well-drained soil and sunny nlaces. There is not the least reason why bearded irises should not. be grown in the herbaceous border with other hardy perennials, but there is no doubt that enthusiasts for these lovely plants Will prefer to have them in a bed or border to themselves. If one section of the garden can be set aside entiielj for irises, both the bearded and o. the other sections, so much the better. In any case, the position chosen should be fully open to the sun, and, if the soil is at all inclined to be heavy and poorly drained, it is advisable to raise the whole bed or border five inches or six inches above the surrounding ground level. The great thing to avoid is water collecting around the rhizomes during the winter. Bearded irises are not very particular as regards soil, and may be seen growing successfully in anything from auite light sands to stiffish clays, but the ideal is undoubtedly a medium loam, well supplied with lime. In fact, lime is by way of being an essential for these plants, and if it is known to be lacking, it should be added to the soil before planting. Almost any form of lime may be used, but old mortar rubble or ground chalk are preferable to the more active and equally more fugitive, slaked lime. Mortar rubble may be used at the rate of five of six pounds to the square yard, while ground chalk, at from one pound to two pounds per squat e yard, will have much the same effect on account of its rather quicker action. It the ground is believed to be poor, a little bonemeal and sulphate of potash may also be added, say, about three ounces of the former and one ounce of the latter per square yard, but it is advisable to avoid the use of animal manure or of ground which has been recently treated with such manure. Further feeding can be carried out by giving an annual topdressing of superphosphate of lime at the rate of three ounces per square yard, late each October.

How to Lift and Divide.

When lifting old clumps be sure to work well round them first, and then get right beneath them with a strong fork, so that they can be dug out without any injury to the brittle young roots. ' Very carefully shake the soil from roots and rhizomes, and, if necessary, finish by washing it off in a bucket, so that it is possible to sec exactly what one is about. Then the younger outer growths can be broken off, each complete with a section of rhizome. Discard any hard old pieces of rhizomes which appear to be decaying, or have obviously been attacked by slugs or other pests. Usually almost the whole of the centre portion of an old clump is useless, and it is only the outside portions that should be kept for replanting.

The important point in planting such pieces is to keep the rhizome itself well up in the hole, only covering it with just enough soil to keep it firm until such time as it has rooted itself into its new quarters. Given correct planting, the rhizomes should appear on the surface after a few months, the soil having gradually settled down around them, or been washed off by the rain. No attempt should be made to re-cover them, for this is the natural habit of these irises.

Tomatoes. Tomato plants should be making good growth now. Side growths (laterals) require to be rubbed out as they appear or the plants become too dense. The main stems require tying in every foot or so. The practice of removing the leaves to assist in the ripening of the fruit is often overdone. The reduction of part of the foliage is admittedly an adyantage, but the complete defoliation sometimes practised is injurious in the extreme. Not only is it a prolific cause of sun-scald and many “greenbacks,” but it will lessen the weight of crop obtained from the upper trusses. Without an adequate supply of foliage the plant cannot manufacture the substances necessary for the development of the fruit. When a truss of fruit has been picked, the leaves immediately above it may be removed as having completed their work. If- it is necessary to do any shortening, take off half a matured leaf here and there. The leaves of the tomato are of such a form as to make this a simple operation. The .fruit is best picked as soon as it shows signs of colour, the ripening process proceeding just as well is a shed as on the plant. Tomatoes are very subject to “blight” during damp, muggy weather. The plants may be guarded against this by spraying regularly.