FOR THE ROSEBED

Wairarapa Times-Age, 15 December 1939, Page 4

FOR THE ROSEBED

USE OF MANURE. AN IMPORTANT MATTER. Manures may seem an unsavoury subject to those lovers of the rose who only know of the flowers as seen in the I garden or after they are cut; but to the rose grower under whose constant I care each shoot grows onwards to the perfect flower it is an important matter. The rose is said to be a gross feeder, but this does not seem a satisfactory statement, for though it will take and absorb large quantities of treng manure, yet is it fastidious in the manner of its application. It may be said that the soils of many a garden are, from long manuring, thoroughly fertilised earth, but this dark old soil, rich in humus and decayed vegetable matter, though it may be much benefited by a dressing of lime, is generally wanting in some of the mineral constituents which the rose requires, for although heavily manured it has probably been also heavily cropped, and the rose likes fresh, virgin soil, if possible. A naturally strong, rich, heavy loam is what the rose likes, as fresh as possible; but wonders may be dene by manure, solid and liquid, even on a poor, light soil. It will be seen that solid manure is not the best form in which to give food to roses, provided they be planted in good fresh dark soil that is sufficiently rich in humus. A manure and a mulch are too different things and should not be confounded; the former is for feeding and fertilising objects, and the latter for protection against frost. heat. or drought. Some little good may be washed out of it into the soil, but when wanted no longer it should be removed. Nevertheless, on light soils, decomposed solid manure has a good effect when applied as a top-dressing, and does act as a mulch as well. In hungry and porous soils, such farmyard manure, sufficiently far gone for the straw to have lost all colour, or "short" enough to be moved with a shovel or spade, even though it be laid cn several inches thick, completely disappears in the course of year, and hardly any sign of it except a darker colour to the soil remains.

On poor, gravelly ground where no fresh soil has been imported, a liberal top-dressing of this sort, especially if l lenty of good manure has also been placed beneath the roots, will not hinder but facilitate the use of liquid manure, natural or artificial, as well. On such ground, poor porous and wanting in humus, no hoeing on the surface can prevent the plants from suffering in a hot. dry summer, and something in the nature of a top-dressing or a mulch is necessary. By liquid manure we can roach all the roots at once without disturbing them at the actual time of their most vigorous growth, and we can supply the rose with what it wants, ready for immediate absorption, rather than solid manure in the soil which may or may

not have all the materials ready in a soluble state. If in a dry time liquid manure is available and it is desired to put it on, it would be advisable to give a thor ough soaking with pure water first. The time for using liquid manure is November and December, especially after rain if possible. As to the manner of application, it may be put on by waterpot, pail or hose t or whatever is quickest, provided it soaks in. Unfortunately the surface of the soil is often such that the wash and dash close the pores of the earth, and liquid for the moment cannot penetrate but runs off. Where much watering with liquid manure is contemplated or under any circumstances where the natural soil is light and porous and the drainage good, it is best to have the surface of the beds below the general level of the ground; the whole can then be flooded, as it were. If, however, the beds are somewhat raised and the liquid runs off, there is nothing for it but patience; a little at a time, and come back again and again to the same place.

Two good rules for watering with liquid manure or plain water are: First, see that it is done thoroughly; be sure you give a good soaking while you are about it; remember “an inch of rain” means nearly five gallons to the square yard, and always do a little space at a time satisfactorily and fully rather than a mere wetting over a large extent.

Secondly, be sure that the surface is always stirred by the hoe as soon as possible after every soaking, whether it be the natural one of rain or the artificial one of water or liquid manure. This is most important; the sun shining on the soaked ground in summer will cause it to crack, often before the top is dry.

Keep the surface as fine and powdery as possible with the hoe, for this keeps the moisture in. whereas the cracks allow it to escape. It is not necessary to go into the discovery by the great scientists of the possibility of manufacturing by chemistry plant manures, which are called artificial not because they are not the real thing, but simply because they are made and compounded by art and science.

The following is the mixture recommended for the rose, as deduced from the ash analysis:—Superphosphate 12 parts, nitrate of potash 10 parts, sulphate of magnesia 2 parts, sulphate of iron 1 part, sulphate of lime 8 parts; total 33 parts.

The manure is to be applied in early spring: immediately after pruning would generally be soon enough. It is to be evenly scattered on the previously hoed .surface at the rate of .',lb to the square yard, so that the rose-grower can soon calculate how much he wants. It should be kept in a diy place and used fresh if possible. If caked together let it be thoroughly crushed with the back of a dry shovel. A second and lighter dressing, carefully avoiding the foliage, may sometimes be given at the end of October.