NEWLY MADE GARDEN
HINTS FOR BEGINNERS. The enthusiastic gardener has no idle : times; there is so much that needs at- ■ tention. The beginner, who is dealing ' with a newly-made garden, will have . many puzzling problems to solve. Close ; observation should be kept on everything planted either during this spring . or last autumn. It frequently happens ; that plants put into ground recently ; brought into cultivation, where settle- > ment has taken place in made up soil, suffer from the shifting of the soil or | disturbance of the roots. When a young plant, a shrub, or perhaps a young fruit tree, which for a time appears to be making promising growth, suddenly begins to droop and look unhappy as warmer weather arrives, the first impulse is to rush to the water-can. In most cases, however, the treading or refirming of the soil around the roots is required. Scarcely anything can grow properly when there are holes and cavities about its root run. Choose a time when the soil is not saturated with heavy rain for I the treading and the more easily one’s heels sink into the soil, the more vigorous the treading should be. When a ■ reasonable degree of firmness has been obtained, the footprints can be obliterated with a rake. Sometimes failure to make good growth is due to the crown of a plant being buried too deeply, or something may be left too high out of the ground, so that its collar, or - the junction between root and foliage, is exposed to sun and wind. Even at the risk of having to lift and replant, it is advisable , to lose no time in performing the task. I lifting in such a manner that the tiny young roots are not torn or broken. Many novices are disposed to think that, if a plant lingers and seems reluctant to make good growth, the best means of helping it is to give it some kind of nourishment. This, however, is i a great mistake. No plant can take advantage of strong food before it has established a complete and active root system. It is injurious rather than helpful. prior to this, to feed either with dry fertilisers or liquid manures. It will be more helpful to see that no soil I encrustation is allowed.
Whenever the soil surface is caked or what is called a "crust” has formed, break it up either with a rake, or better still with a hoe. With a crust over < the surface, the access of air to the ■ root run is impeded and without a cer- • tain amount of air. there can be no j proper root activity. CLEMATIS MONTANA ! — i Most of the clematis species are < pruned during the winter, but the f early blooming Clematic montana and its variety, rubens. should be dealt ! £ with immediately after flowering, that! < is. about December. I r There is not usually much work to bo done, but if the plants are taking j I up more room than can convenitcntly i lie spared, some of the oldest vines can I be cut out. oi’ shortened as far as the younger and more vigorous growths. I I Tliis is an instruction quoted frequent-j ly. It is a most important one. for the reason that, if a cut is not made just above a sturdy shoot or bud. much of c the energy of the plant will be wasted, t and it is possible the end of the stem 1) may die back. c
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Wairarapa Times-Age, 1 December 1939, Page 2
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582NEWLY MADE GARDEN Wairarapa Times-Age, 1 December 1939, Page 2
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