PLANTING OF ROSES

Wairarapa Times-Age, 1 September 1939, Page 3

PLANTING OF ROSES

MANURING PROBLEM. Whatever may be said about the greater advantage of planting roses in autumn would give small comfort to the amateur who took possession, of a fresh garden at the beginning of this year, and it suffices to say that roses may be planted now with every confidence of success. It is certainly very helpful if the ground can. have been thoroughly prepared some weeks previously for, although we always advocate deep digging, it is really necessary that the soil shall settle down to a tolerable degree of firmness before plants are introduced. Where, however, it is a matter of unavoidable necessity to dig and plant immediately, extra precaution must be taken to tread the roots in firmly. We believe in manuring the second spit or subsoil prior to planting, but do not agree with the idea of placing fresh rank manure in close proximity to the roots of a newly-planted rose, or any other kind of plant. If one has some really old manure in a thoroughly rotten condition, it may be used but in all, except really hungry soil, there will be sufficient nourishment to serve the needs of a rose until it becomes thoroughly well established. After that, surface feeding can be adopted to gr.eater advantage. Overcharging the soil with manure into which new roots have to penetrate, is always unnecessary, but never more so than in the spring. Carefully examine the roots of a rose before they are committed to the soil. Often, when lifting in the nursery, a long, strong root will become torn, broken, or badly bruised.; it is better to cut away beyond the injured point, even though it leaves that root quite short. Make the cut as cleanly as possible, and from around the edges new fibrous roots will soon issue, which will be of far greater service to the plant than the old injured root if left, probably to decay. It is our custom, even with uninjured roots that are thick, long, and fibreless, to reduce them by half with the same object in view —the production of young fibre, which has the capability of absorbing nourishment. All the finer- hair-like roots, however, must be very carefully preserved, and . these should be spread out horizontally, rather than allowed to penetrate perpendicularly into the soil.

Where the ground is very wet, it is a great advantage to have some dry fibrous and gritty soil to work in among the roots before filling in the hole, and one. should be careful to ensure that the point where the bud enters the briar stock shall be just below the surface of the soil. Exposure of this union above ground is a frequent cause of collapse of a rose, for it is the joint which is most likely to be injured by winter’s frosts or by scorching sun in summer time. A cane placed across the hole will enable one to fix the plant at the correct depth. CAPE GOOSEBERRIES SOME USEFUL HINTS. The Cape Gooseberry is popular in many districts for preserving, or for .using in the fresh state. A native of South America, the plant will thrive in most temperate climates. The best soil is that which is light and rich. For the early plants, seeds should be sown in August in a glasshouse or a hotbed. Under normal conditions it is not necessary to keep the seedlings shaded, but the soil must be kept moist. Approximately eight weeks from sowing the plants will be ready for transplanting. To harden the seedlings off, gradually reduce the watering prior to moving them, but give a thorough soaking immediately before lifting. Transplant in well-cultivated soil in rows four feet by four feet apart, watering at the time of planting. Apply a top-dressing of one part sulphate of ammonia to two parts superphosphate if the land requires a manure. It wjll also be found an advantage to apply a small amount of sulphate of potash just before the fruit appears. As the plants progress and make a few inches -of growth, pinch out the leaders and early shoots so as to encourage an early growth. Approximately three months after transplanting, the harvesting may commence, the season lasting for two or more months. Although the plants do quite well for two seasons if pruned back, annual planting is recommended for the best results.