INCREASE PLANTS

Wairarapa Times-Age, 30 June 1939, Page 3

INCREASE PLANTS

BY ROOT CUTTING. The increase of hardy herbaceous perennials from root cuttings is a practice of which gardeners do not make enough use. Nature is repeatedly reminding us of the fact, and has been doing so for years, but we are slow to avail ourselves of her lessons. One of these is that numerous herbaceous plants can be readily propagated from small pieces of roots. Who among us has not transplanted the Japanese wiridflower, the dropmore Alkanet, or the Oriental poppy—lifting, presumably, every piece, yet has not the following year found the plants growing again in the same positions? This is conclusive evidence that plants can be increased from root cuttings. We flower-lovers ought to experiment and find out if o'cher plants that we find difficult to propagate can be treated in this way. A fair number of perennials can be readily increased by means of cuttings made of the thicker, fleshy roots; this is due to the formation of buds on the roots. When any difficulty occurs in the propagation of a plant by the usual means, it is worth while trying some other method, such as by root or leaf cuttings. The seasons of the year best adapted for the increase of herbaceous plants from root cuttings are in autumn, after the plants have flowered, and in spring. Sometimes sufficient roots for the purpose can be obtained by digging round the plant; in others it is better to lift the latter, shake the roots free of soil, and cut all the thickest roots off, leaving only sufficient to enable the parertt plant to start into growth again when planted. Three inches is a good length for cutting, should plenty of roots be available; if not, pieces an inch long are generally successful. How to start the growth of the roots is the next question. The roots of Anchusa, Crambe, anemone and others will grow if dibbled in prepared beds of sandy soil out of doors, if the garden soil is light and well drained. It is usual, however, to start them into growth in a cold frame, or even in a heated greenhouse. Use boxes or flower pans, 4in to 6in deep, place about 2in of drainage in the bottom, and fill up with light sandy soil composed of equal parts loam, leaf mould and coarse sand. When only two or three roots of each kind are available, they may be put in pots filled with a similar compost. The longer pieces of root should be inserted in the soil by making holes with a pointed stick rather thicker than the roots. The top of the root should be just below the surface of the soil. Small pieces of root may be scattered over the surface of the soil and covered with a thin layer of the compost. Treatment of the young plants following the development of buds and new growths must be guided by the available conveniences of the grower.

Much quicker results, and larger plants, in most instances, are secured if the young plants are potted off singly in small pots and grown for two or three months in a cold frame previous to planting in the border. Failing this treatment, roots inserted in autumn should be planted in a border out of doors during October.

and those started in spring should be ready for putting out by the end of November or early in December. Several popular herbaceous plants could, no doubt, be treated similarly, were it not possible to propagate them so easily some other way. Anemone, Alkanet, the thick, fleshy roots of the dropmore and other varieties of Anchusa, form an easy means of increasing these delightful blue flowers, pieces of root as large as one’s thumb or little finger being utilised. Anothei’ plant belonging to the bor - age family increased in this way is the prophet flower (Amelia echioides). In fact, most perennial hardy plants belonging to this family are easily propagated by root cuttings. The Japanese windflower (Anemone Japonica) has dormant buds on the roots, and pieces of the latter soon develop into plants. Those beautiful twiners or climbers, Calystegia, grow freely from pieces broken off and left in the ground. Best for the garden are Calystegia hederacea (pubescens), fl. pl., double pink; C. sylvatica, blush white; convolvulus althaeoides, pink; and C. muritanicus, blue, are also good. The crambe or flowering seakale has large, fleshy roots, which, if cut up into pieces, grow as readily as the common seakale. There are three sorts, C. cordifolia, C. Orientalis and C. pinnatifida, all of which send up flower spikes in summer to a height of several feet, branching freely and producing myriads of small white flowers; all are hardy plants.