LAWS OF THE TABLE

Wairarapa Times-Age, 6 February 1939, Page 3

LAWS OF THE TABLE

A GASTRONOMIC GUIDE FOR FRENCHMEN.

Laws of the table have just been drawn up and issued by the Association 'Regionaliste Gastronomique de Paris, and a Frenchman who ignores any of these laws is considered as not knowing how to get the best out of what the table can provide. There are two rules a real "gourmet" will never break if he does not want to lose caste entirely, and they are to smoke during the meal or get up and dance before it is completely over. "Smoking and dancing should not be indulged in," say the rules, "until the meal is ended and coffee served." And the coffee, it is stipulated, should be served hot in a heated cup. Another rule concerns the service and lays down that a meal must always be served silently by the personnel. "If the host and guests desire to converse, preferably about what they are eating, that is all right, but the service must be silent.” "Menus and accompanying wines should be arranged so that their savours mount crescendo to a climax. Never commit the error of eating foie gras as the fourth or fifth dish. It should be served towards the beginning of the meal, when the stomach is in a condition to digest this savoury dish." Finally, the controversy about the proper time for serving cheese is settled one for all in this gastronomic guide: "Cheese must be served before dessert."

Copies of this gastronomic guide are to be distributed to all parts of France, and there will no more be any excuse for any Frenchman who does not know how to keep up the great traditions of his country for preparing succulent meals.