FOR THE WOMAN GARDENER

Wairarapa Times-Age, 3 October 1938, Page 8

FOR THE WOMAN GARDENER

CHRYSANTHEMUMS & DAHLIAS. HOW TO GROW THEM. Chrysanthemum culture is so simple, and the reward for the cares and trouble taken so great, that it is surprising how many people neglect to grow these beautiful flowers. Good, rich soil is necessary; so, if the ground is poor, incorporate with it some decomposed turf and some well-decayed manure —either dairy or stable. Plant out about 18 inches apart, and stamp the soil‘firmly round them, as they must have firm planting. Saturate well with water. When the plants start to grow, nip out the tips of the shoots, and this will encourage side shoots to grow.

They do not require much attention for a few months—enough water for their growth and a strict look-out for insect pests and disease being all their requirements. About December, select three or four healthy shoots, remove all other growth carefully, and tie the plants to stakes. (By the way, it is advisable to have the stakes in position before the plants are put in, so as to prevent the roots being damaged). During hot weather they need good mulchings and waterings. Remove weeds between the plants by hand, as the roots, being near the surface of the soil, are easily damaged if a hoe is used. Disbudding should be done in February, and if choice blooms are wanted only one bud is allowed to remain on the stem.

When the flowering period is over, the old clumps should be cut down and removed to an out of the way corner of the garden. Cover the roots with sandy soil and leave them till it is time to .plant out the cuttings again. There are several varieties of chrysanthemums—double Japanese types, single, and fancy decorative —all in the most glorious colours. Dahlias. Prepare beds for dahlias, digging the soil about 18 inches deep. A welldrained loam is best. If the soil' is sandy and light, dip in some welldecayed cow manure —if too stif, some well-rotted stable manure. Give the beds a surface dressing of lime, and leave them for a week or two before planting. The tubers can be planted from October till late December. When ready to plant, drive in firmly stakes 6ft long, about a yard apart, and a yard between the rows. Sprinkle some blood and bone dust round the stakes. Place the tubers about three inches deep, and about two inches from the stakes, and give them a good watering. When the plant grows to about twelve inches in height, or when it shows three or four pairs of leaves, nip the top off. Select three or four of the limbs, and carefully remove lower growth, tying the chosen stems securely to the stakes. Disbudding should be -done, for the more buds and side shoots removed, the bigger the blooms will be. Keep the ground well cultivated, water the roots regularly, and hose the foliage occasionally at night. When the buds appear, give the plants a mulch with well-decayed manure, and to obtain good results feed them with one of the excellent foods on the market specially prepared for dahlias.

Withered flowers should be removed systematically in order to prolong the flowering period. The following is an excellent and cheap mixture for spraying the plants should they be attacked by insect pests. Three tablespoonsfuls phenol, a quarter cupful kerosene, a spoonful soft soap. Put these ingredients into a kerosene tin and fill up with water. Keep well stirred and spray the foliage well with it. When the flowering period is over, and the plants are dormant, the tops can be cut back to a few inches from the ground. The tubers should be left for a few weeks, then lifted, cleaned, and. stored in a dry, cool place till they are required again. Green plants of all the different varieties of dahlias can be bought ready for planting in November, and the flowers can also be grown from seed. Many gardeners prefer the latter method, as there is always an element of surprise attached to it.