Prune to cut your losses after frosts

Waimarino Bulletin, Volume 5, Issue 21, 28 October 1987, Page 4

Prune to cut your losses after frosts

Those sneaky frosts after all the rain really caught us napping. The opening buds on the magnolia 'San Jose' are completely brown and all the delicate growth on the Pieris 'Temple Bells' is burned and withered. Such a pity, but there is little one can do about it. There is little point in leaving the damaged buds on the plant as they will not open properly and it will be of greater benefit to the plant to trim all damaged growth back to the nearest node or shoot. New leaf growth will soon appear, and during the summer months the plant will be setting the buds for

next year's flowers. The spring display of narcissus and hyacinths has now come to an end with just a few late starters remaining. I went round all the bulbs last weekend picking off the dead flowers so that the energy of the plant can be spent in nourishing the bulb for next year's growth rather than in building up the seed head. The stems should be picked as near the base as possible as a length of broken off stem left on the plant will only encourage disease. Now we can plant summer annuals for a riot of colour right through to the autumn. As with most things these days, good seedlings are more expensive than they used to be and to invest your money wisely ensure that you buy only good sturdy plants fully hardened off to outside conditions. Good healthy plants will bloom much earlier and over a longer period. Most summer annuals are quite shallow rooted and need to be kept well watered in dry weather if they are to perform well. If the top inch or so of soil dries out the roots will be starved of the moisture which they need to maintain the plant and fewer and smaller flowers will be the result. Perhaps a little advice here for new gardeners who find it quite confusing as

to what to plant and when. All summer annuals can be planted now but some are frost tender and some are not. Pansy, carnation, stocks, wallflowers, alyssum, antirrhinum, calendula, aubretia, cornflower, and sweet william are all quite hardy and will cope well with most weather conditions. Livingstone daisy, nemesia, petunia and lobelia will tolerate a degree or so of frost but will succumb to anything much heavier. African and French marigolds, salvia, aster, bedding dahlia and zinnia are very frost tender and will need to be covered at night if there is a hint of frost in the air. All perennials, those plants which grow up to bloom in summer and die down in winter can be planted now including dahlia tubers. If a late frost tinges the new growth they will shoot again. Perennial clumps can be divided now as long as the new growth is not too far advanced, otherwise it will be best to leave breaking them up until the autumn. Gladioli can be planted now to flower about Christmas time. Unless you have a very sheltered place free from wind do provide your gladioli with a stake at the time of planting. One stake between two bulbs will be quite adequate and as they grow, the long stems can be tied to the stake to prevent them being blown flat by the wind.

Roses growing in their own planter bags already in bud or bloom are available now ready to plant in your garden. When planting these, dig the hole just deep enough so that the level of the soil in the bag is level with the soil around the top of the hole. Remove the bag carefully and set the plant in the ground taking care not to disturb the roots more than necessary. Fill the hole with the soil removed and firm in gently. Water well in. If your ground has been well nourished it is not necessary to add fertiliser but a little blood and bone mixed with the soil at the base of the hole can be added. Let the plant settle in for a week or two before feeding with a balanced rose food every two or three weeks during the growing season. Roses should be sprayed with a rose spray effective against pests and diseases about once a fortnight. Roses need plenty of water if they are to perform well although the ground should be quite well drained. Give them a good soaking then leave until they need watering again rather than giving a light water every day. The latter will only encourage them to form feeder roots closer to the surface of the soil where they will be more likely to dry out. Standard and miniature roses must be given a firm stake to support them.