Gardening with Bea

Waimarino Bulletin, Volume 3, Issue 12, 13 August 1985, Page 12

Gardening with Bea

What an exceptionally mild winter this has been so far this year. In the twelve years we have lived in Ohakune I can't remember a winter like this. Have you noticed? Not once on the T.V. weather report has Waiouru recorded the lowest temperature. Most unusual. Even the plants in the garden have been fooled by the mild weather. Erlicheer narcissus have been in bloom for the past fortnight, and the tiny Crocus Chrysanthus make a bright patch of gold on the rockery. Daffodils and Hyacinths are budding up to flower weeks before their time, but regretfully, a number of the bulbs we have planted seem to be coming up blind, all leaves and no bud. I picked sprays of Camelia 'Debutante' yesterday,

three or four weeks earlier than usual. Everything is putting on new growth, including the weeds. I can see young dock plants pushing through the ground where never were there docks before. A tip for ladies who enjoy spinning and dyeing their own wool. Using Alum as mordant Dock leaves will give a clear yellow. Planting It is too early and the ground too cold and wet to plant seeds or seedlings in open ground. Winter hasn't finished with us yet I fear. Seeds of cabbage, cauliflower and silver beet can be planted up in seed boxes and the young seedlings planted out later. Any stout box about two or three inches deep will serve the purpose, provided there are good drainage holes pierced in the bottom of the box. A layer of broken charcoal such as is used for barbecues will facilitate drainage and help to keep the earth sweet. I use a mixture of two thirds commercial seedraising mix or finely sieved growing soil, to a one third mixture of sieved garden soil and sharp sand. Dampen the mixture thoroughly and fill the boxes to within half an inch of the top. Sprinkle the seed on top of this mixture and cover with a further half an inch of the growing medium. Press down firmly. A sheet of newspaper laid over the surface of the box and pressed with the palm of the hand should do the trick. Store the boxes under cover or in a

very protected place and let nature do the rest. Flower seeds such as Nemesia, pansies, stocks, etc; can be started in this way, but care must be taken to store the planted boxes away from frost and snow. If your boxes are stored in a shed or garage make sure they have adequate light and be careful not to let them dry out. Vegetable garden Now is the time to prepare the ground in the vegetable garden if this has not already been done. As soon as the ground is workable dig it well over and remove all rooted weeds and as much as possible of cooch grass or seasoned animal manure, dig this in at the same time to provide the humus and nutrients which your seedling plants will need. To rough dig the ground now, and leave it open to winter forst will enable the earth to 'breathe'. The frost will help to break up the ground and sweeten it, in the process killing off some of the bugs and the bacteria lurking within and waiting to pounce on your tender seedlings. A good dressing of lime spread over the surface and left for at least three or four weeks for the winter rains to wash in will help this process. Pruning People have asked me "When do I prune my roses?" Although in warmer parts of the country this is normally done in June or July I prefer to leave this thorny project until much later in this area.

I never prune my roses here until late August or the begining of Septembr depending on the weather. Pruning established bushes will promote the growth of new shoots which are likely to be damaged by heavy frost. Unless your rose garden is in a very protected position shielded from the worst of the frost, I would leave the bushes to 'sleep' a little longer. The new shoots which will form after pruning will grow much faster and stronger after the worst of the winter chill has gone. Re-siting However, if you are resiting some of your bushes this could be done now provided that the ground is not too wet and soggy. To remove the bush dig around it with a sharp spade, not too close to the stems to avoid too much root damage. Lift out the bush by digging under it and lifting with the spade. Leave as much earth round the rootball as possible. Any roots broken in this process, or any withered or rotted roots can be removed by cutting back to healthy root with a sharp knife or secateurs. Make sure that the hole you prepare in the new site is wide enough to take the rootball comfortably. Looseh the soil at the base of the hole and form a mound over which protruding roots can be comfortably spread. A little blood and bone could be added to the soil to provide nourishment for the new feeder which will start to form. Continued on page 13

Gardening with Bea

Continued from page 12 Remove most of the top growth, cutting back to three or four healthy stems to within about a foot or so of the rootstock. Place the bush in the hole, supporting it so that the crown (the joint where the rose is budded to the understock) is just above the surface of the ground. Fill the hole with the earth previously removed, firming it once or twice as you fill. When the hole is completely filled press the earth down firmly with the foot and water well to remove any air pockets. I have moved a number of rose bushes by this method and they seem to have come to no harm. After the heavy rain and wind which we have experienced in the past week or two it would be as well to

check your bushes in the rose garden for the little gaps in the soil around the root base caused by the wind rocking the bush in the softened soil. These little gaps should be filled with fresh soil well pressed down because frost getting down these little openings could damage new root growth. At this time I always keep an eye open for 'Dieback', which shows as brown or black unhealthy looking areas of stem usually towards the top of the branch. Cut this back with a slantwise cut to healthy wood, sealing the cut with a pruning paste if you have it; or a good smear of vaseline will serve to protect the cut stem from the entrv of harm-

ful bacteria.

Bea

Barnes