WOMAN'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 5 December 1913, Page 2

WOMAN'S REALM.

SOCIAL NEWS AND FASHIONS.

IN FASHION'S REALM.

OP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR.

Tiie new, or coming form, is the peg-Top. L reTor to figure contour, back or front viewed straight on. Europe calls it peg-top in various languages; American out and out ''barrel." The Americans use "barrel" freely; as a-barrel of flour, barrel of apples, etc. They have many quaint expressions, generally more or j less apropos, but why they spell pleat j "plait" is to me a mystery. Do they j pronounce it so, that is as "plat"Pl Imagine a "platted" dress? Well the figure is not objectionable,, though it lengthens the hip curve tremendously. Beyond all doubt it j has come from the side draping, even |as this came from the panier. These peg-top dresses are often , draped. The waist is subdivided evenly ,by pleats, front and back, and such de- i scendmg at increasing width eventually i'estoon the least little bit. ; When- 1 dwell on this feature I am j inclined to think that "barrel" is far more expressive than peg-top. It may or may not interest you, but the very latest is that we should walk with bent knees. It is a case,. I suppose, of going on our knees for the modes, or should I eay "going in"? Another thing is that the figure should be thrown back. No more craning necks; you simply have to cultivate an aggressive back. Presumably the inspiration for this was watching the flyliisg machine. But I ami Quite serious, as •in order to get results the great designers are call- | ing out for "no heels." Imagine it I —no heels, bent knees, and" should'ers well to the rear! I am the more, inclined to think that there is' something in the noue" by observing the new French sandal. It is a shoe as of yore only instead of the usual stray or buckle, a long band crisscrosses over the: instep and on the ankle. We shall study hut not necessarily endorse anything but the contour, and "tliat is unescapable. The peg-top outline in skirts is as sure ae the sunrise.

The fashion of making the waist higher in front will be persevered in, especially when a scarf sash is worn knotted low behind. Rather narrow sashes of this description are seen worn over tailor-mades? to whicl they give a very smart appearance Foi* this purpose they are generally made in this soft silk, the ends gatli ered into pine-cone shaped tassels o! a firm sort covered with iToss silli yarn. Sometimes the waists oi frocks are carried up so high in fronl that, the bodice here 1 is reduced tc the limits of a fichu, a bunch'of flowers of a bow emphasising the effect Talking of bows, :a touch of .fantasj •if-' now';, and again : given to a taillbi suit the fronts of which,'fa-sten wit! a single button over a vest or shirl waist by the introduction of three short loops of wide ribbon set alongside each other and jutting perpendicularly from the chest in a bunch If the "suit is a light one then the ribbon is chosen of some 3ark colour whereas if,the suit is dark, whtte 01 light colours are selected. A large cravat bow is often placed on tin iront of a bodice open down to the bust or farther, having an upstand ing ruching of net or Medici collar This is a Carlier hat; face rathei large but such the result of contrast It is exactly as in the model. Thii is described as a cloche of fine white straw trimmed witfa bands of blue taffetas with large dark crimson ros< at the side and on dropping, bows o: ribbon. It is a typical Carlier mode and very easy to repeat. In fact most of the hate of now are- that

Any one with a little taste can work wonders for a i'ew shillings. Eyen it' you have half a dozen dresses in wear there is no reason why you shouldn't have a hat for each. In the examples i have given ■ over the last few weeks you have a wide selection of liall-tharked designs* With 60 much always before one in advance—klue as often said to Europe leading us by a season to a season and a half : —it is hard to resist the temptation of peeping into the future. Yet of what use telling of the modes to be, when before they arrive readers . will have forgotten what was said of them and of what use repeating what you have said already ? Suffice it then, for the hint for those whose"- present • selections will have to do lengthy duty. I have mentioned the contour and some other things. As for blousets they will trend to shortness and bunchiness. The Medici frill will be carried down imore and rise more at neck, falling over like a ruff. Coatee sty'fcbs will be generally short—more hofiwos in fact, ending at that,, closed and open with waistcoat. Or they

(By "Marguerite.") [Social Itema for tkii Page would be gladly received by "Marguerite," ear* ol "Age" Office, but to ensure their publication, must be aoeompMued by tk« name and fcddn>M of the tender.]

will draw on to girdle from back to front, with a division, and have for short hip sides a series of pleats with plain extension at back. Panel fronts wiTl gather in sweep at girdle, and the "band" go round and form book marker sash behind. The lowset sleeve will be universal, is so now in fact. Tunics will continue and jxiore eo by the simulation. Some of them will have large serrated border —I don't like it; looks ragged, or will. The much frilled cuff is hallmarked now, and we shall have the "frill" above and below girdle—this fairly free above, rising at front and back, deep below and in pleat form. The sash everywhere, but what think you of this with brocaded waistcoat over the blouse, but no coat. Anything for novelty! A dainty blouse for you —season now, and the design to hold good. Sometimes you eee in advance pictures points for present use. The blouse is simple enough, slightly

swelled open front over net, meeting and below, flat collar with frill and well frilled cuff. A .pretty idea those curved pocket simulations—one of the smart little touches that so distinguish the time. Beads are extremely fashionable, npt one sort but a dozen. A favourite trimming for the front of a low evening bodice is strings of beads in a double festoon coming from shoulders and caught in at the middle by a jeweller's plague. Picture amber* beads arranged in this way on a dress of broche of old-gold hue, and white pearls on another composed of flesh-coloured satin and white net! The latter is used for a scarf brought | forward from the back to pass in front of arms over shoulders and then down' to waist at back again. Here it is tied in a "mousme," which might be any language, and do. It is, of course, a Japanese bow. Thetassels at the extremities of the bayadere scarfs are often made entirely of beads. Washing nets studded \Vith opaque white beads figure among the materials which are being converted into fashionable seaside confections. Apropos heads generally, what are they made of? Glass for one material. It may interest you to know that there are factories in Elirope that make them from milk. No there is no error. Some years ago a scientist discovered how to make a material to beat celluloid. He made it from milk.