IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 3 December 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR. The local dressmaker! She may be here or there, right in the thick of things, or away from them. And she may in a large way or small, employing assistants or doing her best to get through without. If Christmas calls for tho kindly word how much more for the just! In a little talk'on "Dressmaking, Then and Now," a New York authority says: "There are thousands of dressmakers in large and small communities who are competent to serve their patrons with the dernier cri of Paris. They keep themselves well posted on the latest, they know the styles, and they are as well equipped to perform the work as many whose names are of world renown. This doesn't say that all are creators, nor is it necessary. What is meant is that, be-, ing conscientious students of correct attire, they know all there is to know of the styles, "and, moreover, how to give them proper expression." The assurance is as true of this country as of America, of England and other lands. Dress has become de-

Imocratised through the press. Why suppose that the wearer should know and the dressmaker not? After all, . the fdffnier'-'s interest is not vital, and the tetter's .is—her livelihood.) The New York writer makes one slip, "This doesn't say that all are creators." None 'are, for the all-suffi-cient reason they daren't he. The local dressmaker must obey. Her's; not to reason why, her's but to cut and make. Of course she cah adapt, and does; put in little touches—-it is often so; give a dress a - "personality"—it depends on her "eye." Don't" despise the local dressmaker, I refer to the one who is in a struggling way. Of a surety she will give you conscientious service, and as things go in this uneven world, something more than your -nion<iy'4i worih. I. expect ; that many of thfe^reat^faris: houses;;would give you much less. Also—will often grvo you ft better thing. The New York authority says: "Primarily everything is due to the European designer, particularly of Paris. They furnish the ideas, hut it is the local dressmaker who makes and: artistic." I'll go farther—it ijs s the local dressmaker who gives tjiem their best expression. And why P Because two heads are better than one any day, arid everyone who adapts criticises.' The originator ifi like the .inventor, the painter, the artist, the writer,. the speaker. He creates, but the human mind has its limitations. Fired with the idea ha overlooks blemishes, and the critic sees them at once. The Parisian is not so well dressed as her sister in the cities that adapt Paris ideas, Paris is always in the rehearsal stage, as everything, practically speaking, is launched there. The eternal effort to be original begets the bizarre. What'is more there is a certain amount of "gambling" on public favour* Monsieur has an idea—it is generally Monsieur—and he wonders if the world will stand K. The higher his name the more he will risk—a refusal doesn't mean ruin. All the freak dressing originates in that way, and it will go on to th© end. The local dressmaker,, particularly she whose reputation, is at sftalso with each new and limitations together.; For the first she comes to the design with a free mind, and being an adapter she can compare, Also, she can pick • from one arid choose from another. She is really a kind of'dress editress—she may not be able to write the "poem," but she can tell if it "scans," and the poet often fails. Her limitations are those,of her environment. , The eternal rehearsal in Paris makes for a volatile judgment, a 'champagny" one. That leads to hysteria. The reviewing conditfeis elsewhere result in smoothness of judgment, judicious selection, the idea shorn of its excess and perfected in consequence. Such i*> the argument for the local dressmaker; a kindly word in season, but just withal. Paris does not set the modes so much as she inspires them. Assuredly she dictates the ruling note, every time and all the time, but' it is the adaptation that expresses La Mode, and it is the other world centres that lead the way. On her pedestal is the local dressmaker who plays her indispensable part and, generally speaking, merits more than she gets. All admiration for her art, praise for her industry, and honour for herself. This is a hat by Henuard. It is typical of his style—for summer. Tlie model is described as a dark

silk covered hat with a large cockade of ribbon in front, with "cactus dahlia" in centre of bow. The "cactus dahlia" is made of ribbon, and a rose bv any other name is as sweet. The drawing must be generously judged; impossible the soft effects of the folds, 'the silk at intervals is overlapped and tho result in the" original was charming. The selection is one which the home milliner can profit by if she has a suitable shape. Ribbon just now is queen of hat trimmings.