IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 11 October 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR.

The-, note may be simplified. Thus take bowlers. Last time most of us had bowlers with white or light brims turned up over dark crowns. The light brim is dirty now, and perhaps the crown has gone out of shape. By half a yard of chintz ( with a fairly large pattern on it. Or, if you do not care about chintz, have a cotton or silk tapestry. Get a bottle of dull hat stain to match the flowers on the material, and a yard of rather wide soft "black satin ribbon. Paint the brim with the, stain and allow to dry. Then cut a circle of material and draw it over the crown, stitching it down firmly round the line where the brim join** the crown. Then fold the ribbon round the hat, so that it hides the sewing, tucking the ends one under another at the left-hand side. Here are some colour schemes you .might try: A rather bright green satin, and a green and gold patterned chintz. Black ribbon. A dull : - pink satin, and a pink chintz with dark ' blue flowers on it. Dark blue ribbon. A paid blue stain and pale blue chintz with black and pink flowers on it. black ribbon. Very many have hats oi flexible straw, which can be turned up or down according to taste. Most of us turned them down last ,y«!ar, but this year the majority go up. Cut a circle of taffeta or stiff glace silk, which measures half as much again round its edge as the measurement round the line where the brim joins the crown. Take little tucks about 1J inches dfeep at the wrong side of the material round this circle till it is so much drawn up that the tucked part fits closely to the hat. Then turn the circle to tho right side and slip it over the crown, tacking it down firmly, so that the tucks stand up in a straight row all round, and the loose part puffs out at the top. Told a narrow piece of material round the hat, to hide the raw ends of the tucks. . A pretty

flower quill is not hard to make. Make it from canvas wired round the edge. Sew little flowers closely all over the canvas, and then face up the back with silk to hide the stitches. Good colour schemes are these. A dull blue hat with a crown of mauve and blue shot taffeta and a quill,of Parma violets. A black hat with a black and red shot crown and a quill of red roses.' A hurnt straw hat with a brown crown and a quill of red roses. A burnt straw hat with a "brown crown and a quill of roses shading from brown to amber. A grey hat with a grey and- pink shot crown and a quill of pale pink" roses. \ : A rather entertaining I/ondon writer—quite out of the ordinary as regards style—packed her bag and went over to gay Paree. I have been reading some of Her notes, and venture to annex two pr three because they have the flavour of the. ' 'picture." All the skirts were a little high-waisted, the blouses pouched over them all round, so that the shape of the figure could hardly be seen. It seemed to me that every smart dress had something in the way of a fichu or a sailor collar.

The skirts were draped a bit, but the drapery was narrow. "There was not a hint of the panier to be seen, and the pleats—if there were any—were pressed down flat. I don't think there was a single woman in Paris—except me-—who wore a petti-, coat. There were plenty of petticoats in the shops, but, judging by the way people looked, they never got outside. What fascinated me most were the ties and! jabots. I liked best the high black satin neck-bands fitting close to the throat with tails. of lace falling down in front. There were a great many tulle bows—big ones and tiny ones—some of them so small that>hey could be sewn on to little paste brooches 'which were sold with them. What I noticed about shoes was that they were nearly all made of patent leather with very short toes. Sometimes'they had coloured suede tops, but, more often wide ribbon laces, tied in great big bows. The smartest stocks were very thin, but quite plain except for open-work clocks at the sides." I am showing you an evening gown. The original was of pale pink satin with bands of Venise lace for the dress proper; white net embroidered with crystal beads in different tones of light and old blue for tunics and bib sections. An alternative might be pale blue charmeuse with old blue or white net, chiffon or net lace for tunic. You could adopt the design for an afternoon toilette in a dark colour combined with chiffon or chiffon velvet with satin. In the manner shpwn a word is necessary as to back. To all intents and purposes it repeats, save that there is a panel section from the waist, which

gathers into a point, with tasse] at

the same far length as the sides. Observing that it is a well decorated design, I may say that many of the new silk fabrics are intensely Oriental both in colour and pattern. There are Japanese, Chinese, Persian, Tur-

I kish, and Egyptian effecte, embracing a wonderful blending of colours, together with a skilful introduction of metal threads. t The new fancy cotton crepes are sheer and dainty. One with a ratine stripe, effectively brimmed with wide bands of ratine lace makes an ideal dress for a young girl. It will be of Russian blouse design, lace collar an extended "V" from neck sides of same, lace band around elbow length sleeve, lace belt, double width lace border to blouse and on foot of skirt. An amber coloured messaline provides another with picturesque fichu draped shawl-like, beading design on same and again at foot of skirt. Revive the design I showed you of costume ill small panel; bodice in folds from shoulder to waist crossed, skirt with curved fronts, one crossing over with buckle, and drapings therefrom paniel in contrast with bodice, shieldlike one below girdle; developing material radium silk in pale blue printed with violet and green sprays, plain sections of white crepe. The medici frill at back gives an adorable finish; , Blue and white dotted foulard makes

, an ideal plain frock for ■ a young girl, I plain blue inessaline for flat wide • Collar, cuffs and border to hem of skirt. A pretty note of contrast is a girdle of cerise satin, with side up right how and streamers. Linen holds in popular favour, and is well adapted to simple one piece designs. Light lavender is a good delection with collar, cuffs and belt of black satin. White satin foulard «"ith '■ a' blue dot gives an effective dress, a feature of which is the often curved shield-liko front to waist with frilled edges flnd button*, the inset being on embroidered net. The skirt has a side-front seam with buttons in *sections, gathers from the knee level and slight draping. One piece dresses develop well in gray blue cotton eponge, plain or printed voile, cotton crepe, poplin and chambray.