NEW ZEALAND A FAIRYLAND.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXXII, Issue 3168, 20 April 1909, Page 7

NEW ZEALAND A FAIRYLAND.

AMERICAN IMPRESSIONS. "Hawaii was dreamland, New Zealand a fairyland," writes Mr Franklin Matthews, one ot the journalists who accompanied the American fleet in an article in an American paper on the welcome given to the fleet here during the memorable week in August last. "The Americans," he proceeds, "were astonished to find this little land, which has an area of one-seven-th luss than Great Britain and Ireland together, was a combined Norway, a Switzerland, an Italy, a California, a Yellowstone in scenic beauty, and that it was an lowa and Eastern Kansas in soil fertility, and an Upper Michigan and Oregon in its grand forests and timber industries. As to its governmental experiments, it would be presumption for one who was there less than a week,.and those six days one mad dash to try to catch up with the various phases of hospitality, to write about either in criticism or commendation, to say nothing of endeavouring to give a mere narrative of what these experiments have been and are. !

"Perhaps the most significant fact that can be mentioned in respect to this is that a government has been • established here where millionaires 'as Americans know them"do not exist, but where the wealth of the people reaches the tremendous total of nearly £3OO a; headjthe highest in the world; where there is no poverty ; where, as nowhere else in the world, the good old democratic doctrine of the 'greatest good for the greatest number' is exemplified. "Presumptuous as it would be to point out where the semi-socialistic scheme of government has succeeded or failed, this much may be said in sober truth, after much conversation and careful observation, and if healthier, happier, more prosperous human-beings than the residents of New Zealand exist anywhere in the world, the writer of this does not know where to find them." Then Mr Matthews comes to the story of the welcome to the fleet. He says:— "From the first sight of Auckland Haroour the American seemed at home, out came all sorts of vessels, %vith flags and banners, and cheering" multitudes "to shout welcome. The ships were greeted with songs as well as with shouts. Warm as was the greeting at San Pedro in California, it did not reach the dimensions of this at Auckland. The harbour itself had a look of wel- ; come. One could almost imagine himself sailing into a/Boston suburb. J Although it was in the dead of winter, so propitious is the climate that the earth was covered with green. As hill after hill stood out one could see with glasses that it was black with people. Soon the red-roofed houses, built largely in the fashion of New England homes, filled the landscape with a glow. Then the city came into view—a warm, friendly looking place, sloping away on hillsides and.into valleys, with suburbs that spoke of contentment and prosperity. The water-front was thronged. The water was covered with small craft. Great signs of welcome were strung on bluffs and buildings. Flags were everywhere, and the people seemed crazed with delight. "The great feature of the Dominion welcome was the visit to the famous Rotorua thermal springs, and a peep into the geyser country. It was on the Rotorua trip that the Americans got sume idea of what the ancient Maoris must hue been" as a race and as warriors. One could fill columns with the details of their welcome. It was the most thrilling and savage exhibition any of the party had ever witnessed, and at the same time it was the heartiest greeting ot goodwill that they received. "The main party arrived at Rotorua late at night. It is almost in the heart of the North Island. The sulphur fumes filled the air, and in the bright light of the full moon one could see the clouds of steam pouring from the earth in grest fog banks all over the district. In the morning the visitors went to the Maori village, walked among the boiling pools, saw the natives doing their cooking in them, put one hand in a stream of cold water and, only a foot away, held the 5 r fingers over a boiling pool. The earth's crust seemed too frail to step upon. On all sides jets of steam spurted into faces. You | < could paw away the sand in places and at a depth of from three to four : inches it would become top hot to ' handle, It was a gruesome, uncanny ' place in which to live." | "Interesting as was the Maori welcome, the visitors found the natives themselves much more interesting. The beauty of the women astonished them. They are chocolate in cojour and the younger ones are Hthe. Their features arc almost typically Grecian. Their eyes are wonderfully bright and they carry themselves with the air of nobility. The men have long given up the practice of k tattooing their faces. It was mari vellous how they worked out those 1 patterns. Some of the women still tattoo their lips and chins. It now indicates a marriage mark, but it mars the beauty of their faces wofully. They are gradually giving up the custom and are beginning to see that they are more beautiful if they forego this painful operation of ing their skins with a shell and the . indelible ink they make from a root.

"The writer went tD Rotorua in a car where there wa3 a young Maori matron of high rank. Like hundreds of the women, she was a graduate of the Maori College. She had as regular features as any Grecian maiden of old, but her chin was stained. You forget it when she smiled and her face lighted up with merriment. She was the life "of the car. When she spoke it was with as soft a voice as was ever given to one of her sex. Her English was delightful in its pronunciation and the diction was absolutely free from slang. And if you ever wish to hear speech spoken in the softest, richest, sweetest tones in the world spend an hour in conversation with one of these educated chieftainesses ot the Maoris and you'll never forget it. "It used to be said, 'See Paris and die' says Mr Matthews in concluson. "Paraphrasing the saying, ridiculous in these days, one may say in truth to those who rfeek nature's glory in it* richest beauty, 'See New Zealand and live I'*