TO ENGLAND VIA SAN FRANCISCO.

Tuapeka Times, Volume IV, Issue 221, 25 April 1872, Page 5

TO ENGLAND VIA SAN FRANCISCO.

(From Evening Star's Special Correspondent.)

(Continued.) Salt Lake City, February 10, 1872.

The distance from Ogden to Salt Lake City is about forty miles, and the fare is about 24 dollars or ten shillings. The line is wholly the property of the Saints, Brigham Young being owner of one third, and the remaining two-thirds being held by a few leading members of the Church. There is nothing to attract special attention on the route, as the whole country is covered with snow. To the right is Salt.Lake, covering an area of 80 miles by 30. The water is so strongly impregnated with salt that it never freezes, and supplies the inhabitants of the City with abundance of salt, both coarse and fine. The train arrived at 10 a.m., and I went to Salt Lake House, kept by a Gentile. There is better house kept by a Mormon named Townsend ; but < n this occasion the Japanese Embassy, numbering ten souls, engaged the whole house ; so lodgings were scarce and expensive - viz , three dollars a day for very poor food, no attention, and anything but tidy bedrooms. My first duty was to call with a letter of introduction on Brigham Young's private secretary, Mr McX He was very cordial, and asked me to call on the morrow, when I might possibly see Mr Young, who was very unwell. I called next day, but unfortunately Mr Young was worse. I asked my new friend if there was reason for apprehending danger. " Well," said he, •• Mr Young has had much to trouble him of late. I dare say you are aware he is now under arrest along with some ten others, charged with the crime of murder." I told him I was so informed. He is a prisoner in his own house, only it is reported that permission for an occasional drive is granted him, for the benefit of fresh air and change It may interest your readers to know the reason why Brighara Young is a prisoner. Some six years ago a Gentile named Dr. Robinson was murdered in the street in Salt Lake City. Thei c never was a judicial inquiry into the facts connected with this cold blooded deed, until an investigation recently made by the Federal Court. The evidence in that and a number of other cases implicated several Mormons of more or less prominence in them. They were indicted for murder, arrested, and bail was refused. The Federal Attorney telegraphed to the Attorney-General at Washington for advice as to admitting the prisoners to bail, but received no advice nor instructions in reply ; the Government considering it best to leave the matter in the hands of the Chief Justice here, Mr Kean, who is alone competent to determine whether persons indicted and arraigned on a charge of murder shall be admitted to bail. He has exercised that discretion aud refused to accept bail ; so the accused are retained in custody. In company with a Mormon gentleman, I visited the gaol, and had a conversation with the captive saints. They have now been four months in prison. Th*y prefer paying their own expenses to being placed under the surveillance of Camp Douglas, which is controlled and superintended by a regiment of the United States Army stationed here. This they admit is a privilege, but they complain bitterly of their detention and unjust arrest. I must confess that their apartment or day room is like anything rather than a prison. Fancy a billiard table in a prison ! Now this I saw, and expressed my astonishment at so novel a circumstance, but wa3 told they provided these little luxuries for recreation and amusement at their owh expense. Wonderful country ! Wonderful people ! I bade the incarcerated saints farewell, and visited the Tabernacle. In shape this building ia oval, and 13,000 people can sit comfortably in it. It is so constructed that this large number can leave in in three minutes. It is certainly a marvellous structure— plain, substantial — its acoustic arrangements ) erfect. Listeners at the extreme end of the building hear equally well with those nearer to a preacher. "The organ is one of the chief features in the interior. It is is 54 feet high, 40 feet long, and 38 feet wide. It is net yet complete, although in use. Up to the present time it has cost 150,000 dollars, or L 30.000. Without exception it is the grandest instrument I have seen or heard ; and, when the Tabernacle is filled with worshippers, its full harmonies add deep solemnity to their proceedings. Contiguous to the Tabernacle is the Temple, now in course of erection. Its foundations and walls are of the very best granite, which approaches as nearly as possible to that of Aberdeen. The building ha* been eighteen years in progress, and is expected to be finished in about twelve years. Its length is 200 feet, breadth 100 feet, and height of walls 100 feet. It is to have six steeples — three at each end, measuring 275 feet in height. When finished, the Temple is not to be used for preaching, but is to be exclusively devoted to the ordinances of Mormonism, such as baptism, marriages, and mysteries peculiar to that faith. I observed several masons employed in the erection of this building, and asked the attendant what wages those men received. I was informed that no money was paid to those working on the Temple j they simply had food supplied them while laboring on this great undertaking, as it was contrary to the rules of the Church to pay in coin. The intention is that the Temple when completed shall be a free-will offering to God to be devoted to his service. I looked at the drawings, and saw one of a magnificent baptismil font, supported by twelve colossal oxen to be fashioned out of the best stone. The Temple, when completed, will be one of the grandest in America, if net in the world. The Saints look forward to its completion with great enthusiasm, believing that great results will follow, as no other people with means so slender and so isolated have made such sacrifices for their faith. This is doubtless true ; but from personal observation, now that railways have brought so many Gentiles to the territory, especially Califotnian miners, enterprising and energetic men, I am somewhat inclined to believe that the days of Mormonism are numbered, so far as the practice of polygamy is publicly acknowledged. Salt Lake City is divided into 21 wards, and covers an area of upwards of three square miles. In each ward the Mormons have minature tabernacles, which serve the double purpose of a dano-irg-hall through the week, and a meeting - house and Sunday - school on Sundays. Dancing during winter is the only amusement the Saints indulge in, balls being held every night in the week. On mentioning to a Mormon friend my wish to witness one of these reunions, we started in company, and on arrival my friend entered by turns- If, announced my name, and that T was a Gentile. He soon returned, and said that Bishop would be very pleased to see me. I have often seen dancing, but never witnessed so much enjoyment in it as the young Mormon folks appeared to revel in, especially when it is considered that their only beverage was cold water. Young, middle-aged, hoary sires and wives, all seemed delighted, while kindness and goodfeeling marked their merriment. I was here introduced to one of Brigham Young's wives. I had a long chat with her. She seemed a very clever, accomplished person, and dressed exactly as the other female Saints— plainly, neatly, and cleanly. I told her I had called to see Mr Young, and she enquired if I had seen him. On answering in the negative

she seemed disappointed. I said I believed Mr Young had much to think of just now. She looked at me hard, and replied that he was supported by an unseen Power, and would yet come forth triumphant, despite the artifices of his enemies. This lady is one of sixteen wives, and lives a few miles out of town on one of Brighatn's farms. I cannot help recording my views on the enlightenment of those Saints who planned this city. The streets are two chains wide, and, through the whole length of each street a stream of water flows constantly throughout the year. With the exception of the main street, in which business is mainly transacted, in each street rows of trees are planted on the side tvalks, which, in summer must not only afford cool and refreshing shade, but add a charm to the town. Orchards filled with a great variety of fruit trees are attached to each house. Indeed, I am told there are few lovelier scenes in America than in Salt Lake district. I can well understand it to be so, as, at every turn one takes, the eye is met by orchards every where. The Saints are great in fruit diet. It is served up on all occasions. Apples here especially are most luscious in flavour, and Jare generally eaten at breakfast. I have already stated that dancing is one of the amusements the Saints most delight to indulge in ; the next great attraction to them, and of which they are great patrons, is the theatre. This building is, I am informed, of the handsomest of its kind in America. It has three tiers of circles. Its stage, dressing-room?, and appointments, are fitted up in the most approved and elegant style. During my visit the play waß "Pizarro." I went early, so as to see the Saints enter. The part of the house specially reserved for them is what we should call the pit ; but here it is the most expensive department of the house. This financial arrangement may be deemed politic, in order to secure to the Saints themselves exclusive possession of this section of the theatre. One portion, on the same plane as the pit, though with the floor slightly'raised, is divided from the rest and sot apart for the wives and daughters of the prophet. On this occasion they mustered in full force. This probably was because the Japanese were that evening to patronise the performance. This they did in all their robes and ceremonies of state. Whether this or some other circumstance led to so full a family muster, at any rate there they were to the number of I should think thirty -five females, young and old. The private boxes were also filled to excess with ladies. Two of Young's daughters sitting in a prvate box were pointed out to me. They are both married to oue husbind, whose name is Chawson. He is manager of the theitre. and has two other wives. The house is the sole property of Brigham Young, and cost a large sum of money. I have sent a stereoscopic view of it, with other buildings, &c, to Dunedin. There was great excitement in the City to-day, owing to an election of mayor, alderman, and councillors for two years. The Mormon Mayor, Wells, has held the chair for two years ; but has n^t given satisfaction to the Gentile community ; so they brought forward Gentile candidates for the various offices to be filled. I witnessed the excitement, and saw poly?aniists bring their women up to the poll Jike so many lambs ; for be it understood in this territory, women are entitled to vote, and what the Gentiles complain of is, that a Mormon who may have ten wives, demands for each the right to vote. They assert that only one wife can legally vote, the rest being aliens, and that their position is antagonistic to the laws of the land. From what I cati learn woman suffrage was granted, so that if a woman were under bondage to their lords and masters, they might have an opporlnnity, when occasion presented itself, of voting against polygamy. This, however, they have not done. In fact, so far from being discontented with the system, and from what I have seen and heard from many women with whom I have talked on the subject, they appear to be greater enthusiasts in it than the men, and defend the system with more earnestness. The result of the poll showed their determination to uphold the present order of things for Wells and Company, all Mormons polled nearly 5000 votes, while the opposition polled 531, or an average for the Gentiles of about 520. The Gentile paper here (the Tribune) complains bitterly of the unfair and illegal manner im which the Mormon people voted. Many were challenged on account of youth ; but all objections were overruled by the Mormon officers. The voting is by ballot, the conditions being that the voter is 21 years of age, of sound mind, haying lived six months in the city, and being on Ameiican citizen. The whole passed off peacefully, althongh many curses were levelled against Brigham Young and his apostles — curses not loud but deep. Bands of music paraded the City all day long, and many were the squibs and jokes made at the expense of opposing candidates. The museum may be considered the nucleus of a large institution. It contains a collection of curiosities from many lands ; principally specimens contributed by gentlemen who have paid the institution a visit : The gentleman in charge seems very earnest aud much attached to his work. Here may be seen the sword of Joseph Smith, the first pistol, soap, cloth, &c, manufactured in Utah. The cloth is first-rate in quality, an<? will compare favorably with any f abi ie I have seen. Leather is also an article of trade, the Saints taking care to wear none other than home-made articles. There are many matters in connection with the city which require immediate attention, such as a supply of water, and what is equally needed, a Fire Brigade. I pointed out these things to an influential Mormon. He is quite alive to the importance of such benefits, but reminds me that, until within three years ago, the Mormons were an isolated people, living far apart from the rest of the world. Now that they hare been brought by means of railways into direct contact with it, they will have to bestir I themselves. Sad — very sad — would it be, should a fire break out in the town, as the business part is wholly composed of attached wooden houses ; while in the less frequented streets the houses are all detached, and here of course a fire would be less dreadful. Another great drawback is, there is no reading-room or mechanics' institute. The Saints are very exclusive, and do not seem to fraternise with the Gentiles, while the latter are so bent on money-making that a public reading-room has not yet entered into their calculations. It is strange that the 16,000 inhabitants of this town do not see the necessity for the establishment of not one reading-room, but several. I have never before seen a place where so many halls are devoted to dancing. Surely some room might be made for books. There are many Californian diggers here waiting for the return of spring to recommence mining, as rich finds of silver orejare quite the rule. The whole of the mountains surrounding the Salt Lake district are proved to be richly auriferous, and what the effect of a large influx of population it is not difficult to foresee. The Saints are at present forming a line of railway from Salt Lake City, 400 miles long, penetrating the richest mining districts of Colorado, and intended to join the South Pacific line at St. George— a Mormon town. The South Pacific is a new line which will soon be open for traffic from San Francisco to New York, and will embrace the new country of Arivea aud, Mexico, On that Hue there will be no

danger of being blockaded as at present ; there being no Rocky Mountains to crow. Looking round the city, I observe that the finest properties and houses belong to the Apostles of the Mormon Church. They cer tainly do live in palatial residences, and I am informed that their furniture is elegant and costly. Brigham Young has so many houses that it would be a difficult task to describe them. It is sufficient to say that his own establishment — that is his town residence—is one of the finest houses in Salt Lake City. The whole area of the section of land on which it stands is ten acres. The Tabernacle and Temple stand on similar blocks of land, 'lhe latter is surrounded with a high wall, with turrets surrounding the entire enclosure. I left Salt Lake City on the 16th February for Ogden, where I now am, in company with many more Innocents abroad, waiting for the removal of the snow blockade.