THE OBSERVER'S PARIS LETTER.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 234, 7 March 1885, Page 14

THE OBSERVER'S PARIS LETTER.

the summit, with some gold embroidery, and a knot of gold lace jumping out of some hiding place. Beyond this there is no novelty to record in hats. It is the eighteenth century which dictates at present colors and materials. The most delicate shades of green are preferred, that which implies in those who patronise them, youth and elegant features. It suggests powder and mouches. But is not to be concluded that other tones which dominated during the age of Louis XV. are discarded ; they are all suitable, and never more so than when harmoniously combined. Eibbon is extensively employed in head dresses. The fantasy has no limit, and the bonds are surmounted by an aigrette of feathers or flowers.

Specially Written fob the Ladies

Paris, January 17. It was observed that the reign of Louis Philippe only secured for Parisians an obelisk, erected on the site where Louis XVlth was executed, and the skeleton of a whale for the Natural History Museum. The ladies are roundly abusing' the Rerjublic for having killed official balls. M. Grevy and all the Ministers are ranked as deepdyed sinners in this respect, and so are the Ambassadors. Matters having come to the worst, as usual are mending : the Austrian Ambassador and his lady have inaugurated something like a permanent series of soirees. Under the Second Empire the Princesse de Metternich was the life and soul of the fashionable world ; she did not so much take part in the festivities as in their organisation, and setting people at their ease in merry making. And all Madame Grrundy .could charge the Austrian Princess with was permitting smoking in her presence and in ier salons even.

Paris is resuming its accustomed aspect after the Boulevards had been converted into a fair green, where those thousand products of the peculiar industry of the city, improvised for the wants of the day, changed hands, to secure the tranquility of parents and the triumph of the children. We are now preparing- for the Carnival and the masked balls. But for the moment, the most important event is the great number of removals. In consequence of the hard times high rents in the new parts of the West End have had to come down, and so mansions unoccupied since some years are now finding tenants. Imagination can hardly conceive the number of pianos, beds, chests of drawers, chimney - piece clocks, etc., transported through the streets. Clearly the Prussians left Parisians some of tlieir Penates. The city has the air of an ambulatory furniture store. What histories such cart loads of goods and chattels represent ! There are arm chairs so decrepit from age that one cannot help pitying the knocking about of such old friends. As a rule, husbands fly to some place to be at rest during removal ; they feel that the timely absence, .if not making some hearts fonder, will gratify the wishes of their owners at his being out of the way.

Ball and dinner toilettes are the actualities of fashion ; they may be said only to differ in "being more or less low-bodied and a longer or shorter train. These differences depend on the wearer's necessities or caprices. A decollete robe is official, that which suffices for a very great number of ladies. Some of these dresses are questionably low-bodied, and are retained in position by a simple epaulette of a finger's width, of flowers or diamonds. Often a ribbon does this shoulder-strap duty. The lady who has a distinguished figure, plenty of diamonds, and a toilette composed of rich materials can risk a low-body which would frighten not a few of her sisters. A lady of anything but free habits would commit a great error in imitating such a model. A prudent elegante, while not displaying a' robe buttoned to the chin like a riding habit, will be able to "appear not the less charming, while avoiding an excessively low body. Women are said to be flowers, and so it is well to remember the ' modest violet is often preferred to the triumphant gardenia.

There are ladies who cannot reconcile themselves to a gala toilette unless it have a toilette two yards long, while there are others who as strongly reject the train as an impediment. Now the train is not obligatory. save in the case of special ceremonies. Those who attend courts must have a train nearly three yards long, as a court mantle. Many robes, when the material is very rich, can be made quite plain. This does not apply to velvet, which is so much in vogue at present. Such a toilette must be suprjiied with a very sweeping train, no matter whether the velvet be black or coloured ; but then it has neither drapery nor tuck. More generally it is only ornamented with a tablier, as Louis XIII. robe.

These remarks apply solely to the velvet toilette. But, young ladies still using tulles and similar light tissues can perfectly "well go to balls in round jupes, but not exactly so short as if for a town dress. Some ball dress materials are in tulle and figured satin, the draping being sustained by bouquets of myosotis. iled velvet is another material in favour, and also maize-coloured brocade and sicilienne. For dinner toilettes, mousseline de lame and figured silk ; red bengaline and Chantilly lace.

Black and white lace robes are very much in favour. Young 1 ladies have always a white lace'jupe, of which they change the corsage according to the Mnd of party they attend. This lace jupe ii^worn over a fond, In faille, surah, or satin. To impart more elegance to the toilette a sas.h is worn, passing round the waist, forming a bow, and falling to the border of the robe. This sash is made in velvet, surah, or brocade. Corsages are more and more close-fitting and short, forming a slight point before and behind. For slender figures, the corsage draping from the shoulder crosses in front. The jupons are more and more swelling into crinoline— the latter are coming. Plaited jivpes are rapidly disappearing-. Uibbon velvet is very general as trimming. It is made in every width. It enters largely into the trimming of hats; thus, a velvet capote, water-cress shade, will have a series of the ribbon green tint, in bows, rising to