PHILANTHROPY AND DOWDYISM.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 233, 28 February 1885, Page 3

PHILANTHROPY AND DOWDYISM.

The dear, good people (we mean those of the weaker sex) who "go about doing good," for the most part make one terrible mistake : they are too often dowdy. The lady philanthropists that address meetings and speak from platforms and hold committee meetings, and rule oyer friendly and all sorts of societies for the relief, education, and nurture of the poor of both sexes, are too often ridiculous in the eyes of many by their extraordinary fashions in gowns, bonnets, and other articles of female attire. We presume the object of these ladies, who now enter into so many social questions of the period and make them their own especial care, is to convince other people that they are zealously working to carry out their ideas in the interest of whatever subject they have adopted.

As many of their hearers are of the masculine sex, who hitherto have managed and conducted these affairs without help from the ladies, let us be allowed to give them one hint, which we hope they will take in good part — dress so as to please the men. There is more in it than they would care to acknowledge, perhaps; but, from the times of the old Eastern law-giver, Menu, till now, the same fact exists ; men do pay more attention, and men are better pleased with, and more likely to listen to, a well-dressed woman than to a dowdy. Women like proverbially to get their own way, they like to have the masculine portion of the world at their feet metaphysically. Practically, they like them to follow their suggestions, to adopt their plans, and to carry out their will. They will do more by gentleness than by strong-mindedness ; more by looking and acting like a modest lady than by appearing iv garments strangely and wonderfully fashioned, and apeing the ways and gestures of men ; more by singleness of purpose, and earnest womanly zeal for their cause, than by attracting attention by denunciations against men and their follies and mistakes ; above all, more by leading than by driving— for man is an obstinate animal, with an inborn idea that lie is the lord of creation, and therefore must be right. No driving or speechifying, or laying down of the law will convince him, although sometimes, overpowered by a majority of fair ones, he is obliged to give in.

But take him the right way, be gentle, be insinuating ; let him imagine he is having his own way, when, after all, he is but following the suggestions you have so craftily made to him ; above all, make yourselves pleasant in his eyes, and there is no limit to the boundless power of womankind : she will have her sway, and she will hold it, too. " But," exclaim many of my readers, "we do not want to please the men, and we wish to be as good as tbey are ; and we do not acknowledge their superiority of their right to commaud." It may be true that women have as much natural capacity as men, aud can be as good classical scholars, arithmeticaus, astronomers, geologists, logicians, musicians, and everything else.

Ido not think it. Woman have rarely — so far, at least — excelled in any of these capacities, or eclipsed men. Though many have studied, none have made a name, and it remains to be seen whether this age will produce any such examples. In lighter literature, in artistic pursuits, and in accomplishments they rank equally with men. I say artistic pursuits,- not artists — for there are few really great lady artists. Angelica Kaufman stands alone in her generation, and ours can boast of few n..ni'.s*of eminence, like Rosa Bouheur and Mrs Butler, among crowds of pictures by lady painters, many pleasing, but none that will survive long to fame. There never has been yet any great female musician ; no originator, though many skilful interpreters ; no very scientific woman, with the exception of Mrs Somerville ; no metaphysician, no writer on logic, no great poetess, no dramatist.

Women have carried out the ideas of men. They follow their lead in art, and produce exquisite decorative subjects, both for thebrush and for the needle ; they interpret their grand music ; they translate great authors 5 they act their great plays, and often with a power and a delicacy that would have possibly astonished Shakespeare himself ; they excel in all that requires delicate handling and eye for harmonious colouring, where their perceptions are generally quicker and more correct than those of men. (What a pity they don't use their artistic powers more suitably in dress !) 1 know more than one of the band of philanthropic women who deplore this want in her sisters, and would fain see them not arrayed in extravagant fabrics or gowns by Worth of fabulous price, but, as I have said, in neat, well-made, wellfitting garments of good texture, and not following the fashion in any exaggerated form, although conforming to it so far as not to be peculiar. , "

It is a show of weakness to dress remarkably— P. sort of "If you do not notice me for my dress you will not do so atall." Any real lady will not want to attract, or to fix attention in this way, and we assume it is to attract and draw attention that these curious garments are put on. Else why adopt them? They are not useful ; they are generally "floppy" instead of trim; draggling here

and there instead of compact ; untidy instead of neat ; hideous shades of some colour that has been the rage of a season, and the passing fancy of some votary of fashion who can afford innumerable dresses, and to throw them away when tired of them. No ; the real earnest workers, the women who are really useful, and women whose approach is likened to sunshine in the homes of the sick and poor, the women who are welcomed with beaming faces by the pauper children of the industrial schools and orphanages, the women who command attention and respect from the men whom they enlist in their cause, and whose help they rely on, are, well — they are just true women, gentle, modest, retiring, yet steadfast, holding their own opinions firmly but not obstinately, pleasant to look at, winning in manner, and last, but not least, well dressed.