FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 233, 28 February 1885, Page 8

FASHION NOTES.

For dinner head-dress, the front hair falls in waved curls over the forehead; the back hair is drawn to the top of the head, where is a cluster of four ostrich feathers shaded to harmonise with the colour of the dress. A butterfly velvet bow conceals the stems of the feathers. Young married ladies who still join the dance have demi-trains loosely caught up and looped to the skirt, falling down to its edge^. and yet barely touching the floor. In this case the bodice is of satin. The skirt can be of embroidered silk or crape, sewn with motifs of beads. Mantles are ' most diverse in shape and length, and are mostly composed of the handsomest materials, generally cut short behind, just to cover the waist, with flutings, ruchings, or puffs that give the appearance of a chicken's erect tail, and certainly a most jaunty look to the wearer. A very pretty opera cloak is made of emerald green plush, loose and doublebreasted. It is bordered with white China goat fur, fringed bows in Ottoman ribbon, white sleeves in Christmas rose satin, diagonal drapery in ecru lace, looped up in festoons ; with velvet roses, pleated skirt in Christmas rose tint on sateen foundation, fluted waterfall. I A very becoming gown of navy blue, with red on the skirt, introduced as revers at the sides, has a self coloured tunic, gracefully ; draped, which falls in a square apron in front, and close folded loops at the back. The bodice is habit shaped, beautifully cut. and made with short coat tails behind. The openiug is filled by a plait of red cloth, with red and gold braid sewn thereon. Much change is showing itself in the make of bodices. No longer will the square open neck be in favour, except for ball dresses, and then the shoulder band will be so "beautifully less" that hardly any will be visible. From the Americans the French ladies are copying, the bodice high to the throat, and without sleeves sometimes, and others with sleeves that meet the gloves, just according to taste. Flowers are worn occasionally with these high dresses, but placed as high as possible. A decided feeling has recently arisen for combining two materials of different texture and variety. Contrast is the rule pf the day. By daylight and gaslight its presence is seen, and gains wider favour each day. Eich " mill-board " brocades on skirts of cashinere^ or rough-surfaced warm woollen stuffs areafc^ often used now as on gossamer gauze fine ' veiling, and soft China crape toilettes of muslin are often adorned with broad.panels of velvet brocade, while gay-figured damasks are greatly in vogue on skirts of lace frilled to the waist. A very handsome dinner toilette is composed of white crepe broche Avith black velvet and plain black velvet. The bodice, which reaches as far as the waist, is laced at the back. It is finished round the throat with a high ruche of crepe and lace, and is trimmed both back and front with pointed velvet bands cut on the cross. The black velvet sleeves terminate at the elbow with, crepe bouillonnes. The train is black velvet. The tablier of broche crepe is draped high at the left side, and the scarf that encircles the waist is' knotted above the drapery. A deep black velvet band edges the tablier. In the matter of jewellery, diamonds, always popular, are now un pen passe. The latest thing is pearls— white, pink, or black are the most fashionable. I always think jewellery is dreadfully abused in this countiy, but the people who have the best taste wear the least and extremely good. When only one or two articles of jewellery are worn with an evening costume, they look so much. better in quality than when forming items of a large number. Jewellery in the day-time is an abomination, and cannot be too highly reprobated, especially diamonds, which are profusely favoured at all times and seasons by Americans. At a marriage in Wellington last week, the bride wore a Princess gown of matte white satin Duchesse. The. back of the train at the waist was supported by a wide sash, gracefully looped, and falling in long loops a little to the left in front, below the waist. The bodice was trimmed with white Honiton lace, with pearls and chenille embroidery, the vest being attached with pearl ornaments. The bridesmaids' dresses (four in number) weje cream nun's veiling, trimmed with satin trif_fming. They wore bonnets of .cream-coloured lace, with crearii-colouredfeathers, and carried bouquets of dark chrysanthemums, ten roses and white flowers, and fans presented by the bridegroom.

A very pretty evening and . reception toilette is composed of moss green velvet pale pink satin, and Alencon lace. The tablier is covered with narrow satin flounces and the long satin waistcoat and panels '^Wbi embroidered in moss chenille and pearH. The overfronts arc of velvet, with diamond or pearl buttons. The puffed train is satin edged with a plaiting; the bertheris Alencon lace. The reception dress is composed of cream satin, striped with claret .velvet plain claret satin and silk passementerie to match The velvet skirt is cut in the cross, likewise the bodice, which has a satin plastrom, ornamented with beaded passementerie. ' Thrf'satin tunic is draped high 'on the left side* where the jetted ornaments from the rhdit side hold it in place. *