FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 229, 31 January 1885, Page 9

FASHION NOTES.

By " Jenny Ween."

Handkerchiefs, edged with lace, are made of Indian muslin, and used as wraps for the throat over a robe de cJiaiubrc.

A very neat breakfast gown is in princess shape. It is composed of striped grey and pink flannel, with sailor's collax*, cuffs, and pockets in pink or red velvet.

A very becoming dinner-dress is composed of shot silk, and shot silk with broche and velvet. The skirt and gimp are of plain silk of a darker shade. The tunic is draped with bows on a broche quille.

A very stylish collar is called the Dentle collar ; it is of white linen, scolloped at the edge, and buttonholed with Turkey - red cotton. A line of red dots follows the contour of the scollops. The cuffs match,

A very pretty tight-fitting jacket is very beautifully shaped to the figure, fitting close to the inside of the arms, and is worked with dull pearl beads. It has long front pieces, finished with fringe, which is placed in two rows at the edge.

A very stylish, costume is composed of pink surah, and lace. Tlio three flounces in front of the skirt are edged with, lace, and lieaded with a double bouillonne. The oval-shaped bodice is trimmed with, lace and bows. The back of the skirts is en ' pouf 'at the top.

An opera wrap of black chenille, woven with metal threads, has two deep fringes, tipped with golden drops. At the neck is a narrow ruche, which wholly protects the throat ; and the entire covering, so easy of adjustment, is -weightless and yet warm, in no way deranging the toilette beneath, nor crushing the floral corsage.

Pelerines are like handkerchiefs, but with scarf ends, also bordered with lace. They are often entirely composed of lace, and make pretty wraps, thrown over the head on coming from a concert, theatre or party — the ends folding back and over the shoulders. These pelerines are sometimes made of surah, in pale colours, edged with the silk Spanish blonde, and caught up with becoming folds of knots of blue ribbon.

I may recommend that fichus, handkerchiefs for the neck, and pelerines are all most bewitching things, and enhance the appearance of even a plain dress. Verypretty fichus are arranged with collars of blue velvet edged with lace, and a reverse of the velvet turned back on the left side, then a fountain of lace in graceful, zigzag folds on the other, and an exquisite yellow rose at the "neck, with a trial of buds and leaves to fasten it to the waist. Others have a loose puff of frill lace, caught in at the neck with narrow cream satiu ribbonds, and again at the waist. At a recent ball, amongst other noticeable dresses, was a term cotta nun's veiling, the low bodice and panniers of which were composed of brick dust-coloured plush, the bodice and draperies being of a deeper shade of plain plush, relieved by crimson carnations of the same material. A peculiar costume has an alternate red and white velvet and silk-panelled skirt, the panels being separated by a lovely passementerie of chenille and cut beads. The semi-low white velvet bodice was cut square, a red scarf being draped across it. Most of the youthful matrons and the younger ladies wore white, which seems to have taken the place of cream, except in velvet or plush. A very handsome deep-mourning dress is composed of black ottoman silk, with panels and front of embroidery crape, in a very uncommon style. The bodice is enriched with beautiful embroidery in dull, black beads, These dresses are, of course, costly, and not within the reach of all ; but I maintain, that .Shakespcre's advice. " Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy," should be applied to the purchase of beautiful material, which should not be hastily discarded, but worn as lone as possible, as a 1 aattcr of course. The effect would be more pleasing to the beholder, and much more advantageous morally to the wearer than the present fashion of a succession of flimsy, paltry, ill-cufc gowns, supposed to be in the last fashions. . A very j>retty evening costume is composed of white nun's veiling, elegantly trimmed with lace. The back is fully draped, and a blask silk band encircles the waist, from which fall loops of the same ribbon. Another stylish dress consists of black fino grenadine. On the skirt are seven narrow kiltings, edged with French lace. At the back the skirt is bordered with two kiltings. The gi-enadine is arranged as a apron front, looped up high at the side, and much puffed at the back. I must describe a few costumes I saw at one of the leading dressmaker's establishments last week. One of them quite fulfils our requirements as to richness and beauty of material. It consists of a petticoat of handsome black and grey velvet brocade, of which the effect is heightened with bugle embroidery. The bodice and j train are of splendid black and white velvet I brocade ; the sleeves are made in the new fashion, with lace and festoons of beads let in at the back of the arm. The colouring of this dress is, of course, not so beautiful as the material, because it is intended for mourningwear; but, as an example of sober splendour, it is eminently worth attention. A handsome dinner-dress is composed of steel-grey satin, covered with black Brussels lace, trimmed with perpendicular bands of black velvet and beads. The bodice and train are of rich satin duchesse. Emu feathers are becoming very popular, and are remarkably graceful from the way in which they move when blown about, being always so soft and fluffy. I noticed some the other day on a Parisian hat that were curled and silvered. The hat was of I pale green satin, and the little rings into which these silver feathers had been arranged wore really very new. Another long plume of them of cream colour, resembling an enlarged bird of Paradise tail, was also curled at the ends of each, and made a pleasant change on the incessant ostrich feather. Apropos of those last, ostrich, f oathers have no ,v a sprinkled appearance, being dotted all oyer with a lighter colour on dark. For instance, a brown j>lume will be sprinkled with yellow, a black with crimson or white, and so on. "When wings are worn on hats, and they are still a very favourite ornament, they must be sot on. nearly upright, so as to have a bristling appearance, and intermixed with other feathers.