FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 225, 3 January 1885, Page 14

FASHION NOTES.

— -♦_ _ By "Jenny Wben." A Paris house has invented a dark red chenille bonnet, which has been successfully copied for at least one English grande dame. It is not very difficult, for it consists of rows of fine chenille sewn close together all over a net foundation, and trimmed with ribbons and flowers to match. Shade hats in the popular acceptation of the term have been about exhausted. We have had them of all kinds and sizes. There y are still some elegant Leghorns with Avide flexible brims which never go out of fashion, which, garnitured with lace and velvet and roses, remind one of pictures in the galleries of the Louvre, and are always adapted, and fashionable for piquant and beautiful faces with a spice of coquetry in their archness. A very pretty autumnal walking gown in cashmere is made Avith the skirt quite plain in front, mounted to a deep, gored belt, in six pleats at the back. The whole of the lower portion is covered with closely-set zigjzagrows of dull silver braid. The same trimming is repeated on the edge of the tunic, about four inches broad, and again, narrower still, on the basques, cuffs, and loose fronts of the bodice. A Polichinellc vest of navy blue twilled silk is placed beneath the jacket, and worn with one of the folded bands now so fashionable. These bands are composed of a piece of the dress material folded three or four times, and drawn down in front in a deep curve. In this case each fold has a couple of rows of silver braid upon it. Hats and bonnets are for the most -part dark in colour, and felt is a very favourite material in which to make them. Some are merely stitched double at the^ edges, while others are bound with velvet or gold- woven galloon. Great liberty prevails with regard both to the shape of hats and bonnets. Almost any form that happens to attract the fancy of the wearer is admissable. One of the most eccentric is the Polichinello hat, pointed at the sides over the cars, and turned up front and back with plain velvet. A cockade of ribbon is placed at the side, and a feather curves over the crown from left to right. There is also the round melon hat, trimmed with a mass of loops, made of terry or corded ribbon; the Spanish hat, decorated with gold or silver-woven galloon and cocks' feathers, and the broader-brimmed hat with a pointed crown plumed with shaded ostrich feathers. The " Plonoria " basque and a dinner skirt are very stylish costumes. They are made up of unchangeable taffeta silk, garnet and green combined with the same class of silk, having- small garnet velvet dice on the surface, and plain garnet velvet. The skirt is finished on the lower edge with a plaitingof garnet velvet, above which is a very deep flounce of the plain changeable silk, tucked perpendicularly to within a short distance of the bottom. The drapery is of the figured goods, and has an apron looped high on the right side under a long looped bow of velvet ribbon, while at the left it falls as deep as the tucking extends ; and the back drapery is simply but gracefully looped. The body of the basque is also of the figured goods, with a long plaited vest of the plain confined by a corslet of garnet velvet ; ecru Oriental lace is turned upward on the sides, and outlines the vest in front, and the same lace finishes the sleeves. With the coming of the summer, the thoughts of women naturally turn toward the polonaise ; it is so convenient, so simple, and so easily adaptable to circumstances that it cannot be discarded, and so maintains its place through many vicissitudes. The latest form in the "Barberina" costuin^^^he skirt of which consists of flounces SjjH^laited lace over silk or wool, and theVfiftoiiaise of lace or any light material — grenadine, striped gauze, Madras muslin, printed muslin, and others. The front of the polonaise is draped away loosely to the sides, which unite to a gathered skirt attached to a short basque and hanging straig-ht in clustered folds, which, are ornamented at the top with loops of ribbon. An entcrior sash secures the back to the line of the waist, and is tied loosely in front, the ends having ornaments attached. |jf A very attractive summer toilet — the Barberina costume — is composed of cream white silk ; the skirt is covered with ? flouncings of Kursheedl's cream-coloured Oriental lace ; the polonaise is exceedingly stylish and is made of Oriental net of the same durable manufacture, the colour and pattern matching the flounces perfectly ; the full outer fronts of the polonaise are laid in plaits and open over a tight-fitting vest of ruby velvet, and the back with drapery, being gathered and attached to the side form and back pieces with bows of ruby velvet ribbons and falling straight but f uil and gracefully to the lower edge of the skirt. A bow of ruby velvet ribbon is placed at the neck in front, and a sash of the same rich colour is sein the side seams and fastened ■with a Rhinestone buckle at the waist, the long' ends falling over the flounces. The stylish hat which is worn with this costume is a Belgian satin braid, trimmed with cream-coloured Oriental lace and ruby velvet, and having a bunch of pink tips and a delicate pink aigrette placed against the crown.