FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 6, Issue 149, 21 July 1883, Page 11

FASHION NOTES.

By " Jenny Wbbn." • • - -.. ;,; Peplums are.poining into favour' again. \" ';'';' "' J The. gardenia: is the , fashionable^ flower at.'pfe- , sent in London. ' ' ~ „ ' '".'" ".'."'' f Scarf draperies are still, in vogue, especially for . evening, dresses. '„.., ' .' '" '„ ','•''"'•' Woollen materials, embroidered 'with' wboTj-Jtro still much worn. " ' '" **\' '"'',"" " A. "' " ' . In answer to "Bridesmaid"; JLafcs; oi\ bonnets*' are worn. .Veils are not fashionable. y Checks and plaids are more in vogue than gyer. Greens and bro yrns , are among the preferred, shades. . " \ '''" '" ' y A ■ ,'■' The tourneive also'- is higher' and '' larger,' p'yer senting a level surface ' to sustain tiie. drawings and torrents of lace worn on the postillion' thia year. '.'',, At the concert given at the Royal Albert Hall, the Queen of the Netherlands . wore , a splendid ruby velvet dress, without any; trimming, and <a. head-dress to match. ' ' ' ' A novel fan is in ihe form of a large hbrseehesnut leaf in green velvet, with a plush stalk handle, a flower laid in the centre, attach ed~svith a dainty bow of cream or red satin. Simulated waistcoats of lace, satin, and beads* •with tiny pockets, are worn by elderly ladies when they want to smarten up a plain flress. These are merely pinned down the front "of thedress. ' '' ; ' Sleeve's are becoming so high on the shoulder that the effect will soon be frightful. For Visites* mantelets, and pelerines, the upper part of i ±h& sleeve is so full and stand? so high that they haveto be sustained vvith buckram or several folds of stiff net. In hats aud bonnets, fawn-coloured satin straw, trimmed with wallflower velvet, and the flower on one side, is much vrorn, also with, old-gold and long drooping feathers. The bonnet . crowns, :o£ lace and net, are "tucked," and others oomposed of gold silk cord, deftly twisted round and round. A new fashion has sprung up in England — that of boys, dressed as pages, taking a somewhat' conspicuous part in a marriage ceremonial. -They . carry the bride's train, or they add to the -effect of a picturesque group of bridesmaids ; but, -whether train-bearers or attendants, they certainly^"if "Well dressed, are "pleasing additions to a smart -wedding party. . '', '! 7 . Black costumes of the finest nun's yeilibg,!eve arranged, with black lace, thus : — The . sides -of the skirt are kilted up to the waist 'W closely as possible, and edged with black OVfl^J 3ace » fatting on to a ruche. The fro^'is 'entirely -of lace drills; and the draper^^ttie lightly ' over flounces of i^^sf^^ppi^^^ilk. The silk bodice is covered wtfe'*rjjß^^M__t at-the sides and back form short panieiHM. baßgues. Green chenille bonnets, with, Tuoman y-silk strings, and a single rose, with leaves qn s,Tbudß„ are new ; also, terra-cot.ta straw, trn?i._jigd~with. the shawl lace, shot with gold, and darke J^glTet. At present, the bonnets are small, younger, ladies, wearing those with the sloping crowns,; railed** "skulls," and elder oue3. those with flaft.orpvfns,' . ' and raised brims. Oold trimming is most pppulag,. '.- and so are the new shapes covered in gold. •.' 7 The colour' grey is decidedly, popular* and - whole costumes of it, bonnet or, hat included, may - be seen. Steel, bronze, and gold beads, or braids, form the trimming. The shade .is rather p^dark one. The rich cherry red pouceau is -gaining favour, and will certainly be populai?, for brunettes. The other leading eolouys ;«a'e -. chocolate brown, and various shades of, bronze* . green. Of course the crushed strawberry -and ripe gooseberry are included, but qi} their jheels; is treading a lovely delicate pale rose-pink, ,especially in ribbons . for smart .toilettes, -feather aigrettes, and pomp Ours. 7. • v, ,-.--• The Duchess. ; of .Edinburgh,^ vyhp- recently opened the bazaar in. aid of a. convalescent home for children at Highgate,, was „dresße,d.; i ivhlack satin, trimmed, .with steel; a smol^-cplpuyed .velvet bonnet, with stone-coloured, satip.jstyings,and an aigrette of blue , and steel. and leaying she donned a magnifipent, ,4plpip.n-Pf smoke-coloured cashmere, trimmed witl^jpriental multi-coloured embroidery an^chenUJo fringe:, Her bonnet . and lace jabot :w,ere; fastened- ; with , large roses and diamonds. She was aqconipanied by her little son in a sailor dress, and; her threer little girls in biscuit-coloured costume, with straw hats and feathers to match.' .: ■:,.] / The following is a stylish method for gating up any of the new woollen fabrics, the recUngotft is very long, and buttons diagonally frqpi tha left shoulder to the waist onjjl^ipght^jthjftskirts on the right fall , straight, Jrtit the #cont on tha left from the waist is draw'nup, .lined, ' and turned back und/ £asfci\_ied> on. - the.-back drapery with a horse-&hoe buckle^;- . thi* drapery -. being also turned hack with., a velvet ..revers. This leaves nearly the whole left side of the skirfc -visible, the right showing oaly a. few, inches. -'-If made of cloth, the skirts and back drapery -araedged with three rows, of darker .velvet, ipxcepfcthe parts turned back with velvet ; thg, 'velvet continues up the right front, which is .fastened with fine cord brande»burghs, commencing almost in the centre with large marcaroons, and\termina- ' ting at the other end .?_'..!, a tassel,; the brt-hden-burgs are graduated in size. The skirt cppsist»of four wide bos-pleated flounces, also e^§3--with ■velvet. This. -toilette .looks- vej.\y. ihj*^ome 'in brown velvet over a pleated *p . aid «urah skirt. By altering the materials the style does equally well for a^. cloth* walking costume, or yel?ot, or v bwche Visiting drese. f- . y. „. , V