FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 5, Issue 131, 17 March 1883, Page 425

FASHION NOTES.

By " Jenny Ween."

Velveteen grows in popularity. House aprons of lace are among late novelties. Very wide linen collars are again in vogue. Pearls and imitation pearl beads are very fashionable. ■

Sealskin pelisses are the fancy of the moment in Paris.

r; Black silk beaded jerseys are favourite waists tor young ladies' black dresses.

Black lace ruches and cascades and black lace draperies for skirts are much in favour for elderly ladies.

No dressy toilette is now considered complete unless a fancy muff is added, matching the dress and bonnet.

Dashes of red appear everywhere in the toilette, from the plumes on the bonnet to the " clocks " of black silk hose.

The newest bonnets are very small, but have a pointed brim extending over the forehead, and long ears with square corners.

< * Double ruffs or ruches are the most popular neck-wear for full and demi-toilet for indoors, but they are not manageable for outdoor costume.

Real bullion embroidery decorates the dog collars of black velvet which are worn with low dresses, and which greatly enhance the fairness of the complexion.

Wide, straight-brimmed sailor hats of plush or velvet, having the crowns completely covered •with short, fluffy ostrich tips, are very much worn by young ladies.

Moral buckles are used to catch up the folds of the drapery of evening dresses. These buckles are large and square, and are made of cardboard covered with silk ; small flowers are then sewed thickly upon them.

The hair is dressed in the simplest manner with the most elaborate toilettes ; no false hair is The Psyche knot at the back cannot be too small, but must not be braided. The front hair is combed straight back and the forehead is shaded by light and fluffy locks arranged in any irregular, unstudied way that is becoming ; the forehead is less covered than formerly. v; Cloth co3(jumes are made with two bodices; that for the house is a basque with vest, collar and cuffs, trimmed with cord gimp in designs of Gothic points ; that for outdoor wear is a long pelisse with full pleating at the back, trimmed ; with gimp twice the width of that of the basque. The skirt is plain, in front falling on a balayeuse pleating,- and has all its fullness drawn to the back and massed in quadruple box-pleats. . ■At a recent fashionable wedding the bride looked charming in a stamped velvet bodice and train, and underskirt of white satin trimmed with "duchesse and point lace ; real orange blossom, aud tulle veil fastened with diamond ornaments, -■which, with a lovely diamond 'necklace, represented the bridegroom's gift.. The six bridesmaids were attired in bodice and train of claret velvet, with skirts of salmon pink, and wore toque hats with pink aigrettes. Their ornaments were •a- handsome horseshoe of pearls set in gold, with a pearl-headed pin transfixing it as a hrooch.

' ■ A pretty walking dress is made of dark green goods of soft wool. The skirts are attached to a rjersey bodice, the front of which is braided in 'military style in a raised design, which is broad, just below the throat, and then narrowing gradually until it reaches a point just below the -■waist. Here it meets a wide design in the braidling, which extends from hip to hip. The effect is very becoming to slender figures. The bodice 'buttons down the back ; the close sleeves are braided nearly to the elbow ; the skirt is edged Svith a ruche, above which are broad, upright box-pleats long enough to reach to the scarf of twill, which is draped just beneath the braiding above described.

Long tunics, raised much higher on one side than the other, are much liked with skirts of two materials; these tunics, and the drawn-back panniers forming a scallop each side, and disappearing under, or being joined to the back drapery, may indeed be considered the two leading styles for such dresses. The tabbed bodices of velvet, cloth, vigogue, or other plain materials, overskirts or tunics of pattern fabrics, such as large plaids, cheeks, or composite stripes, are made by all the leading dressmakers. Some of the newest tabbed bodices have the basques cut 'in long straight divisions ; these are folded under to form loops. Some of the looped basques have a handsome coloured sash run through the loops, this ties at the back and hangs on the skirt. ' -The latest in the way of millinery novelties is a leather bonnet, much resembling those of last •year, made of kid. These new head-coverings 'might really hail from the saddler's shop, but that they are most of them decorated with pompons, .feathers, and the like. The colour of the leather is terra-cotta. A few of the bonnets are appropriately trimmed with delicately cut leather lace in various designs, and- the only charm, about these isthat which consistency imparts. Leather lace is also a novelty. It has not met with the favour that pack-thread lace did. It is not as ■coarse or as unpliable as one might imagine, and cit- has been used abroad, combined with plush .lace and velvet, for, trimming fancy articles, and : •also for dress trimmings. „..■■- , :