THE LADIES

Observer, Volume 4, Issue 97, 22 July 1882, Page 298

THE LADIES

4> The latest craze is n. parasol fan. Small berry buttons are worn on dress bodices. Glycerine colour or milky-white is a new shade. Shrimp pink is the reigning novelty for ball dresses. Satin-de-soleil, a new dress material, will make Tery useful dresses for the spring. Straw hats are worn in every colour. Brown or sage green appear the most favoured. French manufacturers have adopted the Kate Greenaway designs for this year's stuffs. Parasols should harmonise with the toilette, frequently being made with the identical stuff and trimming. Coat-shaped basques are double-breasted, or made to simulate a vest, 'and trimmed with a double row of buttons. Lady Habcrtpn's divided skirt has been adopted by several ladies in Sydney, ancl has caused much comment among Eve's sons, whose curiosity has been aroused by the appearance of this novel garment. V , Cotton, parasols,, painted with a flower .to match the bonnet, an;l coloured handles, are a novelty/ These cottons are. so silky that, at a distance* the --, material is rarely suspected, especially in those of brilliant colourings, covered all over with red loses— a favourite ( design just now.

Plain black redingotes, cut away in front and having a deep turn over collar, are stylish, and may be worn with any dress. It is the chic of the" moment to wear black stockings Avith everything, no matter what the color of the dress, or tlie time of day — whether for breakfast, dinner, lawn-tennis, or ball. ' j Bonnet strings are tied behind the left ear, either in a regular boAv or a knot, set off by a single blossom, from which depends a small trail of leaves. i Madras muslin make 3 very pretty aprons, in j shape round or square, and trimmed Avith cream lace. Ecru linen also looks nice, Avith Macrame lace bordering. . Satchels in dark velvet of rectangular form, drawn up at the mouth by a tAvo-inch frill, ancl enriched by a semi-circle of florettes worked in shaded yellow, are 'the latest fashion. The Langtry mantle, composed of satin Rhadames, is very fashionable in London at present, and is well adapted to the present style of dress, being very short at the back. Among the floral offerings presented to Madame Patti at her farewell performance in America of " Lucia," was a pillar of rose 3, Avith the words, " Bon Voyage," and a large anchor of red ancl white roses. Black straw, broad-brimmed hats, trimmed with full black ostrich tips ancl garlands of gay flowers, long black jersey gloves, and black silk hose Avill again be worn Avith summer toilettes of Avhite or pink. A Venetian glass manufacturer is fabricating ladies' bonnets by the thousand, and selling them too. The glass cloth of AA-hich they are made is shinier than silk, has a finer colour, and is none ■the worse for a heavy shower of rain. The return to favour of aprons for morning wear is, in a great measure, owing to lawn-tennis, but they are useful, pretty, and economical additions to a dress. The brilliant bandanna handkerchief apron has many patronesses already, whose taste is for strong colours. A pretty walking costume is made of haycoloured beige, short skirt, trimmed Avith a flounce, arranged in deep lioUoav pleats, with gaugings in the middle ; upper skirt formed of three scarfs — tAvo of satin and one of beige ; basque bodice, Avith satin collar, and facings. Bonnet of Manilla, trimmed Avith satin ribbon and garnet-coloured feathers. Summer woollens are specially tnstefnl this year, ancl beiges, nuns' veilings, and Llamas Avill be much .vorn for afternoon toilets. The amount of trimming varies as much as the styles ; some dresses haA-e tlieir skirts, sleeves, and even paniers covered by alternate flounces of embroidery or lace, AA'liereas in others the only adornment is flat bands of needle-work laid on the bodice, and meeting in a V at the Avaist ; the cuffs are in keeping, together with a single strip used as a heading to the skirt flounces. The Lady Haberton, or dual skirt, is likely to become a favourite. Ii; is most comfortable ancl specially recommended for travelling, climbing mountains, etc. The skirt is made just like an ordinary straight one, till below the hips, Avhere it is divided in the centre to form loose draAvers, Turkish fashion, except that they are not confined at the edge, ancl reach just above the ankle. The fulness and shape are purposely hidden either by a large kilting or several small flounces ; hence, in moving, the poculiarity of the garment is not visible. Over this skirt falls the Princess gown. A gentleman just from England in speaking of the noted English beauties, says : — " Mrs Langtry has fallen off terribly. She is not nearly as handsome as she Avas at onetime, but is awfully clever. The Princess of Wales is stylish and pretty, and although she is 37, she looks not over 24, but the most beautiful woman in the Avorld, perhaps, is Lady Dudley, the young Avife of an old, old earl, to whom sho is just devoted. She dresses very simply, wearing her own, rather than manufactured styles. Miss Florence Nightengale, though OA*er sixty, looks scarcely forty, she has regular features, large brown eyes, and fine complexion. Next to the Queen she is tho most popular Avoman in England." A new entertainment has just been inaugurated for children, Avho like all the rest of the .vorld want change, and there has been a frightful sameness of late about juvenile parties. The Greenaway Ball comes as a refreshing idea, to give a new interest to children's entertainments. Children always love dressing up, and what could be more charming to them than to personate one of the characters in their own dearly-loved, Avellthuinbed GreeiniAvay book. The materials for the dresses are not limited, you may Avear silk, satin, or cotton, whatever the character seems to demand, the sole regulation being that the design must come out of one of the Greenaway books. The effect of these parties is extremely pretty and picturesque, aucl the idea is sometimes still further carried out by having a Greenaway picture on tho invitation cards, and also on the programmes for dancing. It is best to have only one figure for the invitation card, but a variety of designs is preferable for the dance programmes, as they promote conversation at the time, ancl are often treasured afterwards as pleasant souvenirs of a delightful eA'cning. ' The great style in Paris at tho present moment is perfectly plain skirts, made short and narroAV, and Avith an immenre ruche at the bottom. Above, only a pointed cuirasso body ancl paniers. You see these in the streets, at parties, and everywhere in fact. Cloth, silk, satin, and velvet are all made in the same Avay. We prefer the plaited skirt, but having Avorn that so long iioav, dressmakers think any change is better. A black velvet dress, Avhich Aye saw made in this Avay, had the ruche lined Avith bluck satin ; the paniers were also lined with satin. Tho paniers Avere also double, for first camo the hip scarf opened in front, and over these Avas a second scarf, Avithout front opening, and fastened to the long pointed body, which was made very high in the neck, ancl a high, straight collar fastened in front with a black satin bow. Tight sleeves, opened at the back, and buttoned almost to the elbow. With ' this was worn a black velvet Gainsborough hat, surrounded with a double feather, so full and •wide that its outer edge formed a fringe over the the brim. Swedish kid gloves completed this stylish costume. ■