FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 4, Issue 91, 10 June 1882, Page 201

FASHION NOTES.

Aurora colour, an orange shade of pink inclining to yellow, is very fashionable just now. Black lace bonnets, beaded with jet, are worn both in and out of mourning. " Fauchette "is a lovely woollen fabric, chequered with gold silk in very small squares. Tunics and back draperies this season will be much gauged. Many satin cloths, woollens, and mohairs will be worn under new names. Bracelets of old coim are all the rage in New York. i Dressy bonnets are made, of light-coloured crape lisse, richly embroidered with coloured beads, and trimmed with ostrich tips, in a cluster. i Capotes entirely of flowers are also again in fashion. We have rose-bonnets of every description, wallflower bonnets, forget-me-not bonnets, and violet bonnets. Gloves are now made with a gauntlet cuff of satin, embroidered in silks either with crest and initials, or with some fancy device, auchaß a bird, flower, or leaf. An Amazon-shaped hat of brown chip, trimmed with brown Maltese lace, gracefully arranged over a bunch of tea-roses placed in the front, ib really elegant. Buckles made of diamonds are the order of the day. They are placed on the hair, on the shoulders, on the hips to drape the tunic, on the neck to fasten the black velvet band, on the arms, and, indeed, wherever they can be placed. Hats and bonnets are now in such endless variety, it will be passing strange if ladies of even the most fastidious taste cannot suit themselves. The new straw bonnets are mostly large, and with protruding border. English straw, in narrow raised shining plaits, either white, black, or brown, is more fashionable than the Italian plaits. Waist bouquets or corsage flowers are very fashionable. This dress fancy has a. cheerful expression. The bouquets are worn rather large, even in the street, and are given different positions, according to the taste of the, wearer. The' sun- ' flower and lily are not conspicuously worn. When employed, they are prettily mixed with other flowers, so as not to be too conspicuous. There is no great novelty in the shape of j mantles, but there is a new material which is 'likely to become a general favourite, this is broche sicilienne ; it has a subdued richness which makes it admirably adapted for mantles. The small visite shape is that most used, with the sleeve coming from the back ; in a few cases it is finished off with a little gauged cuff. JEsthetic dress grows more and more in favour in England. It is generally conceded by manuj facturers and modistes that never before has there been presented such an array of prismatic hues in I toilet embellishments and statuesque-hke forms of dress construction as are now seen. It is in the ornamenting department of dress that one sees the aesthetic element, sometimes timidly presented; however, upon the whole, there is much to interest one in this new department respecting mode, raiment, and manner of 'trimming. Most Bunthornian hues prevail, from peacock-blue, the favourite, up to every shade of greenery -yallery that can possibly be combined. The novelty iv silks is plain gros-grain, made as it was five-and-twenty years ago, in wide width. A very handsome plain dress of black gros-grain silk.is made quite simply, with train behind, draped skirfc front, high bodice, and long sleeves. In a few minutes this plain dress can be converted into an elegant dinner toilet. The skirt-front, detached from the train by the unfastening of a few buttons, is exchanged for one of pale blue silk, prettily draped and trimmed with white lace and sprays" of pink acacia. The front of the bodice is also spirited away and replaced by a plastron of gathered blue satin and lace, with a half -garland of pink acacia blossoms at the side. As for the sleeves, they are divested of their deep plain revers of back silk, and adorned with, facings of blue safcin and lace, so that the transformation is complete. Box-pleated ruches mixed with plain bias bands will replace pleatings on skirts, a largeruche arranged in triple box-pleats being on ■ the hem of the skirt. These ruches consist of two bands — one of plain material, which, is placed beneath, and another chequered, occupying the upper place. The two bands are sewn together, face to face ; then the plain band is cut down the centre, turned over and tacked down, an r ? then the ruche is pleated in a rather peculiar, manner. Two small pleats are made, then a box-pleat an inch wide, and then two more xery small pleats turned in the reverse direction from the two first small pleats; and the pleats should be so arranged that the box-pleat covers all four — twounder one half, arJd two under tl\e other half. The ruche is sewn on by a stitching down the centre on the edge of the skirt, and then each, box-pleat is turned back and fixed to the centre, producing a charming effect. At least an inch of plain material should be left between each boxpleat, with its four under pleats. We have attempted to describe this ruche,' as it is very* fashionable, and some of our readers may wish to ' know how it is made. .„ '-^r-