A Flying Visit to the Hot Springs.

Thames Star, Volume VIII, Issue 2865, 22 April 1878, Page 2

A Flying Visit to the Hot Springs.

The Great Sanatorium of the

North.

Some Account of a Twentyfour Hours 1 Trip.

(By ous Spbcial Bbpobtsb.)

This veracious chronicle of a flying visit to the great sanatorium of the North, ai it is coming to be called, ought to hare appeared for the edification of readers of the Star on Saturday night, and I greatly fear that a few thousands will nerer know the loss they sustained by its non-appearance. After " a round of the clock " spent in travelling—that is, the major part of the twenty-lour hours on the sea—the chroni> cler, hariug other work to do, didn't feel equal to the extra strain, and postponed it. To be able to do in one day's 4hoTi> day a trip to Waiwera, hare a dip in the baths, proceed to Auckland and spend four or fire hours ia that city, and return in time tor business next morning, ■peaks ▼cry well for the travelling facilities afforded to the Thames public on holiday occasions. The steamer was the Roto* mahana, under the command of Cap* tain Farquhar, who, with hit osnal consideration for the ladies, took us round by the long passage, and. made the trip perhaps ' half an hour longer. Seven o'clock in the morning of Friday last was the hour fixed for departure, but having received a private " tip " on the previous evening that ie would be about a quarter past, I was not as punctual aa usual when I have an appointment 10 keep, and when I put in an appearance at twenty minutes past, I could aot make up my mind ai to whether I was fortunate or the reverse on finding the steamer had not started. The weather was fine, but rather cold. The day was a holiday, whioh I regard as a day of rest. My usual practice is to make it so absolutely, and not try to crowd into it amusement or work enough for three days. However, after we had left the wharf, which we did at about 7.30, and having found that there was a pleasant, not to say "jolly " crowd on board, a conviction entered my mind that I might have lost a good thing had I been tea minutes later. Besides this, the bracing sea air brought with it a new seasationj I had

AH -tPPBTITE ¥QM~BBMAXXAtt,

which wai increased by the paipable odours proceeding from galley and cuddy. The table of the Jiotomahana is generally very well supplied, but being a fast da/ with some, allowances might hare been made had there been less preparation for the first meal on Good Friday. How it came about that there was such a break* fast as there was no one need seek to enquire ; nor would it be within the province of this chronicler to say who ate meat and who confined themselves to fish. There were some who^ had very strict notions about playing cards to pass away the time, who ate heartily of meat twice in the day; and there were some who not only breakfasted and dined in a manner bespeaking a good digestion, who also played cards. " Chacun a ton. gout," as the old woman said when she kis'cd the cow; and the tastes of some were varied, not only .in the direction of refreshments, but in the matter of amusements. 1 here were • few wild blades on board—men who gave themselves up taamusement as heartily and unreservedly as ever school boys did. They were exuberant in animal spirits—boiling over with mischief, and fertile in resources. We won't further alarm them. Some have travelled before and been referred to as " the > maniacs," but they confined themselves within reasonable bounds on this occasion—opening the seam of one excursionist's trews from the ankle to the thigh being the most serious outcome of their practical jokes. The victim of this piece of pleasantry wag slightly put out, but after the-seam had been repaired his feelings soon regained their usual equanimity, especially as it was a treacherous chain stitch that gave way, and the onlj inconvenience experienced was a slight delay in landing, while the damage was repaired. I said the Captain took us by

THE LOXCt PAMAOS, that is, we kept in the usual track of the Thames steamers going to Auckland until we approached Bangitoto, then we passed between Bangitoto and the North Head, following the northern coast line until past the Wangaproa Point into smooth water off Waiwera. Had the usual course of going the passage between Waihefce and Bangitoto been followed I am told we should hare sared about six miles, ■ but then the internal economy of some on board would hare been interfered with to the extent of a more summary disposal of breakfast than that which accompanies good digestion, with a rerj natural and i consequent antipathy to the midday meal. following. The distance by the long war is about 62 miles; by the shorter routß 66 miles ; and I am sure all wero obliged to Captain Fsrquhar for stuping our comfort and the providore'a exchequer by keeping us in smooth water, as when

DIKKEB TIXB cams there was a full muster at the table, and no one apparently disposed to giro way to mal de mer. The men* was not such as one might hare eipected at an ordinary table on a fast day. There were no indigestible hot cross buns—nothing to remind one of their annual appearance; but there was roast goose and roast turkey, flanked with roast beef, ham, tongue, and other solids, from which hungry men could reasonably be expected to make " a square meal;' the aosence of " resurrection " dishes—a term for which we are indebted, I beliere, to our American cousins,, and sometimes known also as " hash " or " conundrum "—being remarked upon by some who seemed to know all about it. Howerer, enough abont eating. Only a few people lire to eat; it is better to eat to lire. The scenery is not enchanting on the way to Waiwera. No doubt it is pretty on shore. Most New. Zealand scenery is, and the North probably offers no exception, bat land from the steamer presented the appearance of white cliffs, with occasionally a bold headland, and numerous rocky reefs running far out into the channel. The peculiarity of Bangitoto was notioed —that of presenting the same aspect whicherer side you may happen to be. I don't know if it is so, but it was remarked

by some who seemed to be acquainted with it from all sides. As we nested

Waiwera we saw a steamer abend, which turned out to bo tho Argyle wfth excursionists from .Auckland, and when we got into the Bay wo found her tho re just before us, with two others, aTso from Aucklank, namely tho Aunie Milbank and tho Lily. We made anchorage at two o'clock or thereabouts, and were LANDED IN BOATS on a reef which runs out just below tho baths,.and on which it seems a landing can bo effected at any state of the tide. , This reef is very flat, and in some places is covered with small oysters.. Tho few hundred yards of walking to rench the sand is good for shoemakers, but not calculated to impress visitors favorably. It may be stated, however, that the landing of visitors is generally effected nearer to the Waiwera Hotel, on a sandy beach, by means of a horse and cart, which is driven out to meet boats, and save the journoy over the rocks. When we got ■shore we found quite an influx of visitors by the steamers referred to above from Auckland. THB BATHS were mostly engaged, and engaged tiro or tfrjee deep, so that our crowd proceedca to the hotel to have a look round there; but as a word about the famous baths must be given we may say that word here. The short time spent at Waiwera precludes my saying Tery much about the place; but I may at once state that I was so favorably impressed- generally with the extent and character of the accommodation, and the facilities for visitors taking advantage of the healing properties of the waters, that I hope some time to pay a longer visit. The baths are situated j'ist above high water mark, and consist of a small range of buildings comprising the private baths, with a swimming bath attached. The conveniences in the small private baths-— that is the separate baths, each in a small room securing strictest privacy—are an ample supply of the hot water at a temperature varying from 102° to 107° Fahrenheit, with a capital shower-bath after. Of course the ordinary accessories of a bath-room are provided. The source of supply of water for these baths is artificial. Mr Robert Graham, the enterprising proprietor who lias done so much during the last few years to bring these baths into notice, has put in a tunnel 60 feet into the hills, which near the baths come down almost to high water mark. At the end of the tunnel the water was struck. A reservoir was built, from which by means of pipes the water is led to the baths. The overflow of the reservoir comes down the tunnel and supplies the swimming bath, which, it may be said, is about 20 feet long, in the form of a triangle, the base being perhaps 10 feet wide, the tunnel forming the apex. The swimming bath does not therefore afford much scope for natatory exercises, but it is less confined than the ordinary baths, and was vastly enjoyed by a crowd of " ours," consisting of members of judicial, legal, civil service, mining and mercantile circles, with an extra representative of the fourth estate who got repeated duckings, which, in justice to him, I may say, he appeared to enjoy. For nearly an hour did local celebrities frisk and sport in the swimming bath, and some would, t believe, have remained longer, but for the fact that time and tide, and steamers with their work cut out for days in advance, wait for no man. It was with reluctance some of us left the baths, and others who had intended ,goinjr on to Auckland to spend their holiday elected to remain at Waiwera. I am not personally partial to hot baths. I generally do a " shower "as regularly—or more so, in fact—than breakfast. Curiosity overcame my scruples. I had a dip, and did not experience any of the enervating effects which an ordinary hot bath would leave. I indulged freely in the shower after, which may account for my agreeable sensations on emerging from the crib. I also tasted the water, but I confess it requires an educated taste to take much of it ag a beverage. It seemed to mef"! Tery like ordinary warm water, which at beat is very insipid, and my antipathy to hot baths is only equalled by my horror of hot drinks—tea" and coffee, of course, eicepted. I suppose people get used to drinking -the waters as eels get accustomed to skinning. Some persons will do anything that is fashionable; others of a valetudinarian disposition will take the most nauseous mixtures so as to be looked upon as martyrs. I don't say the Waiwera waters are nauseous, and I believe they are really good for some people. As for taking them, if commenced in homoeopathic doses I should say that in a week's time anyone could take as much as the most obstinate case of any known disease would require, alternately with the excellent liquors kept in an out-of-the-way portion of the main hotel building, and known as the bar, but which is not placed where bars generally are in public licensed houses. This brings me to the , WAIWEBA HOTEL proper, distant perhaps two hundred yards from the baths, and consisting of two detached buildings each two stories high, with numerous other offices and usual conveniences. These main buildings are in what I staiild call the Elizabethan ityl^.of architectiiriS^H^t, I may be wrong, us nay knowledge of*^!?««hjtecture is limited. They have high poinuH^ables, wide balconies arid verandahs, 'amt?*t^ large commodious buildings. The interior I had not time to explore, but they have often been described, and the fine accommodation they offer is well known. I was pleased to learn it was all taken up, and less reluctant to leave on that account, as I should prefer a week at Waiwera when in its normal state of respectable quietness to three days of bustling activity. Adjacent to the hotel are the

POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFIChH, on a piece of ground conveyed to the Government by Mr Graham, who also gave a guarantee to cover coat of work* ing, but which, I am glad to hear, he has not been called upon to pay, the establishment being self-supporting. These departments are a great boon to visitor?. Merchants and professional men from Auckland and other cities in New Zealand can advise their people and direct business; while persons from the other colonies seeking the health-restoring properties of the baths can keep anxious relatives posted as to their progress. Mr Graham is not very well satisfied as to the character of the building erected for the Government departments, there having been some implied understanding that the offices should be in a style in keeping with the adjacent buildings instead of the usual Government pattern. I hope that there will soon be such an accession of business that the Government may be induced to carry out their part of the agreement At the back of the hotel, and extending to the base of the hills —

which here recede, leaving a considerable area of flat land—there ia a large cultivation, TnE. GARDEN, occupying n prominent space. There is a big crop of pumpkins, which the proprietor assured me would yield at the rate of 40 tons to the acre. Vegetables of all descriptions are cultivated on an extensive scale, and iree planting has n«»t been m-gleeted, many specimens of the imported pine being well grown, and i showing a promising appearance. Two acres are planted with vines, which also look well, and there is a 1.-irge blenching and drying ground, the " family " washing being rather extensive, as may be easily imagined. The soil is very loose sand, and se^regatious from the hills, but evidently fertile, the crops being sufficient evidence of this fact. The hills are covered with limber, the pretty pohutakawa predominating. .The appearance when this New Zealand tree is in bloom can be imagined. There is a river running down a valley near the hotel, which affords a fishing ground. I believe it will be better soon, when trout have been introduced, but whether an attempt at acclimatization in this direction has been attempted I am not in a position to state. While convalescents can have amusement and exercise in and about the grounds, more robust visitors can find invigorating pastime in exploring the hills, and walking over to the Puhoi settlement, distant about six miles. CONTEMPLATED IMPBOVEBIENTS. The proprietor of the Waiwera estate is always altering and improving the property to make it more attractive to visitors. Just now a new swimming bath is being built. 1( is on the site of the natural springs as they were first discovered, where the water may bo seen bubbling up through the ground on the beach. This will be a valuable addition. Adjoining this hot bath it is intended to excavate a bath of large dimensions which will be filled with sea water, with flood gate for emptying and refilling at high water.- It is to be below high water mark, and pipes conveying the hot water through it will be laid, but not with a view of heating it, as the size will preclude that. It will be au additional attraction to visitors, and as members of the finny tribe will find their way in, the amusement of fishing will be offered to those who desire relaxation as well as retirement. # . OBSBBVATIOtfS. In the above notice I have endeavored to give impressions as they occur to me after a rest from twenty hours' travel, without the aid of notes, no time having occurred to make them. As before remarked, I was very favorably impressed with my short stay, and hope to go again. The trip in the Rotomabana was arranged by Mr John Wilson, who, with Mr Eobert Graham, was very attentive to visitors in doing everything for their comfort. ■ The trip as organised embraced a stay from Friday till Monday at the Springs, but business exigencies prevented the Star's special extending his visit to the allotted time. Those who have done so will be able-to speak more.fuljy of their stay, and go more into details which I had not an opportunity of learning. At five o'clock in the day—we landed at half past two —we re-embarked.on the Roto- | mabana for Auckland, had a pleasant trip i up, and arrived at eight, being greeted on arrival with a large concourse of people expecting to see the Whakatipu with the great American Circus and Menagerie Company, which, however did not put in an appearance until some time later. Going on shore I was fortunate in meeting with some old friends, with whom I put in a few houra agreeably until the steamer left again al one o'clock for Thames, which place was reached just about 24 hours after leaving. Although rather tiring as a holiday trip, it was agreeable throughout, aud I hope that those who remained behind will be able to speak as favorably of their stay at Waiwera as I can of the round trip. Today they will be taken to Auckland and given the opportunity of seeing the real live lions of Cooper and Bailey's menagerie, after which they will bare full opportunity coming down to indulge their penchant for fun. If no more serious mishap occurs than the tearing of another pair of " bags," they will not have much cause to regret their flying visit to Waiwera; while some of them will perhaps have acquired such a taste for the medicinal waters that they will bring back with them a supply for the cure of sciatica, gout, and other ills which flesh is heir to amongst their less fortunate fellows who could not take advantage of the trip. No more at present, from, yours truly,