NEW GUINEA.

Thames Star, Volume VIII, Issue 2859, 13 April 1878, Page 3

NEW GUINEA.

The Cooktown Courier of the 9th instant contains a report of an interesting lecture on New Guinea, delivered in the Masonic Hall of that town by the Rev. Mr Chalmers, lately a missionary in that island. Mr Howard St. George* Police Magistrate, presided. From the Courier's report we make the following extracts :■— In September last ho passed north, on his way to New Guinea, touching at Cooktown. He was not much charmed with New Guinea at first sight, as the whole country had the appearance of being burned out. They anchored under the reef at Scan Head, and pulled ashore ilt the boat to the village of Booerra There is a teacher living fiere who will be always willing to assist those requiring his help. He was much disappointed on landing, as he had heard that the houses and the villages were cleanly kept, but he could not say that he had found it so; all the houses were built near the sea, and looked tumble down places. The country appeared to be barren ; not a leaf to be seen, no grass, a few bushes appeared here and there on the hill-sides, and the whole appearance gave the impression of a land where there was great dearth. The bay at Port Moresby is a Tery fine one in appearance, being entirely surrounded by -mountains, without a break, while outside to the west, it is protected by the Great Barrier Beef, but vessels of over 60 tons burthen must tnchor half-a-mile from shore, and land passengers and cargo in boats. It is a mistake to imagine that all the land around Port Moresby has been purchased by the London Church Missionary Society. Mr Stone, of the Royal Geographical Society, bad also purchased some. Mr Goldie had recently purchased one acre, and there is more yet to be obtained. Port Moresby has a more pleasing appearance than Booerra. The village is built close to the sea, the houses having platforms reaching out over the water, with trap doors through which the people can escape to their boats. The village is kept clean, but they bury their dead close to the houses in which they die, and in graves only abont two feet deep, covering them over with rubbish and a few cocoanut leaves, and leaving them in that state. Although it is only. 12 miles from Booerra to Port Moresby, the people in the latter place are much the finer; the village is larger, and although many canoes were then absent, having gone west, many young men remained—they all appeared to be strapping, tall, strong men. They work a great deal; the women make pottery, ana the men trade with the west for sago, and work with the women in the plantations. Last season was unfortunately a bad one, and there was not much food in the district, the land being all barren. Water and wood can only be obtained in .abundance at Port Moresby by vessels calling there. The women come off with their water and sell it for tobacco, one fl). of the latter is sufficient to pay for watering a vessel, but, on account of the scarcity, they require axes instead. Cocoanuts can only be bought singly, and it requires as much tobacco to pay for one, as would buy a large earthenware bottle of water. After remaining a few days at Port Moresby he determined to take a trip inland. Accompanied by Messrs Macfarlane, Goldie, and the native teachers, he started, and after walking about a 1-| mile, at first ascending, they descended into a swamp, which swamp is one of the causes that contribute to make Port Moresby the most unhealthy part of New Guinea. Crossing the swamp they ascended the hills, crossed through a gap about 160 feet above the sea level, ana descended to-a large plain. The crossing of the range offers no difficulty either to men or packhorsea. Crossing the plain for about 10 miles iv a north-easterly direction, they came to the River Luluke. There was no water in the plain then, but one of the native teachers informed him that during the wet season it would be one vast sheet of water,, and could not be crossed during January or February. Throughout the journey from the port to the Luluke, not a sign of natives was seen. The country abont the Luluke is fine, having large high treei and thick bushes. After having camped and rested they pushed on down the river, intending to get to Monick Island, and proceeded South-east, and after going about 22 miles, reached GolJie's camp, slung their hammocks, and remained there. The party went to sleep in confidence, having a dog to guard them, and the lecturer advised every person going inland to take a dog with him, a dog that could bark even if he could not bite, as such a companion would do more to keep the natives away than a Spider rifle. He would also recommend anyone purposing to make an exploring trip to New Guinea to get Loyalty Islanders— Lifuor Murray Island boys—-to accompany him. Next day they crossed the Luluke, the river then being at its lowest, and forded it in 3k feet of water, at the camp, that being the only safe crossing, and pushed on to reach a place in the mountains, known as the Deserted Village. After travelling some distance, they saw

the first sign of the natives, having passed ■ereral smouldering fires. Some of the party then backed out and returned, but the lecturer, Goldie, and Macfarlano and others pushed on, and, after travelling a couple of miles, struck a river which might be the Luluke, or a tributary of that river, or the Goldie .River ; they fol-, lowed it up to the high land, and after climbing for balf-an-hour or so, they leached the bed of a stream which they followed in a north-west direction for two miles, and then began the ascent of the range. The birds became more plentiful about there, and they commenced shooting at them. The firing attracted the attention of some natives, and they saw scouts running backwards and forwards on the hill tops. One native teacher with the party, shouted in the native dialect,

friends! friends! and one of the scouts replied by shouting, " Missie Law" (Mr. Lawes) " Missie Law?" He then tan back put of sight, said the lecturer, and We heard him repeating his' words. When we reached the summit there was a village, and we saw the natives returning their spears to their houses. Some of them came to meet us in a friendly way, end brought us in. They gave us water and food, and wo gave them beads, tobacco, and red cloth. We remained there a couple of hours, and as it was Tery warm, we took off our shirts, causing the natives to wonder very much at the whiteness of our skins. We then proceeded along the ridge to a Tillage five miles off, in search , of which we left the Deserted Village. We came on it unexpectedly/Some natives were lying on the platform of a house about 300 yards in advance of the other houses. They seized their spears, but seeing we were peaceably disposed, r "one of them stepped forward and placed his hand on our chins, wo placing ours on his in like manner, after which he led us into the village, where we found the people were all down in the plains hunting kangaroos. We gave the old man a present of a knife, and he, after searching, induced a young woman to fetch us some water. Finding it impossible to get from thence to Mount Owen Stanley, we returned to the village we first arrived at, and we lodged in the council houses. The natives gave us water and did not molest us during the night. This village was about 35 or 37 miles from Port Moresby. Next day we set out on our return, and throughout the trip saw no gold, but there is plenty of black sand in the river supposed to be the Goldie or a branch of the Luluke. When coming into Port Moresby, we met three men of the Bertha's crew, going out to look for gold, and then one of our party, "Jimmy Caledonia," not wishing to be deprived of the honor of being the first discoverer, told Goldie that he had found gold—plenty goldthree months before, and had got quartz specimens in his box. Thereupon Goldie determined to give up hunting after herbs and birds, and go after gold. I was at Port Moresby three weeks ago, and learned that by travelling further from that place, in a north-westerly direction, passing the Luluke, and crossing the range at Mount Owen Stanley, open country will be reached, and there the gold has been found. The distance from the port is about 60 miles, or about 25 miles further than the last village we had ■ reached on our trip inland. The country is said to be well watered, 1 and black sand and quartz is said to be found there, but if there is also payable gold to be found, why is it, asked the lecturer that for the last two months and a half Goldie and his party of seven men have remained at Port Moresby doing nothing P Now Guinea is a fine country, within easy reach of Cooktown, and if ever settlement take place there, intercourse with I the colonies will be through this port. Once outside the Lizard, vessels hare open sea to Port Moresby. A small vessel left Cooktown recently, and was becalmed outside the Barrier Beef, but when she got the breeze she made the land at New Guinea in three days, and j on the fourth anchored at Port Moresby. If a rnih were to take place to JNew Guinea at present it would be the most - unfortunate thing that has ever happened for the digger, as there is no food to be bought, nor any help to be obtained, from the natives to go inland, as the tribes are at war, and the country will be all under water for the next month. The climate is most unhealthy. All foreigners residing there for only a few days get the fever, which lays them up for weeks. If apsrty of, say 16 or 20, including a few islanders, could be formed after April next, although May and June are most unhealthy months, much could be done in prospecting during the dry season, and then, if gold were discovered, a rush would take place. He (Mr Chalmers), as well as Mr Inglis, would not advise anybody to go to JNew Guinea now. Messrs Goldie and Lawes

give the same advice The party proceeded, and came on a spur of the Astrolabe Eange. When the top of tho spur was reached, no village was in sight, but the guide stopped, and again asked Mr Lawes to promise that no harm ■would be done, and on being assured that I there was no danger, he proceeded, and got out, in the centre of a village before the party knew whero they were. The first thing they heard was a rattling of spears; then they saw the women all disappearing through the trap doors, making for the bush. The party went to the end of the village to the dwelling of the chief man, and gave him tobacco, beads, and knives. Messengers were sent out to say that all was right, and the women returned and made a feast for the visitors, and when the latter were leaving they made them a present of more food than their attendants could carry away. After returning to the vessel they set sail, and nest morning got to Hoolah. The country on this part of the coast for 60 or 70 miles, down to Round Head and Orangerei Bay, was the first yet witnessed. The village of Hoolah is built fnr out into the sea, so that vessels can sail round it. It is so built for fear of the mountain tribes, who once burned it, and now whenever the men leave on an excursion a guard always remains to defend it. When the Mari reached Hoolah tho men were preparing to depart for Port Moresby, to purchase sago. Theso people are very methodical, and when they are doing anything they will on no nccount leave it to do anything else, but if they have nothing to do they will work for a few beads, 1 or a bit of red cloth. The natives there cannot be called savages rrtbeir principal work is fishing. Leaving Hoolah the lecturer and his party reached Keripooab, Ihe finest town in New Guinea. The houses are built on poles, in regularly laid;out streets. In front of bouses crotons and shrub are planted, and tame cockatoos are kept. The streets are broomed every mornitig and evening. The male population is composed of two classes—-agriculturists and fishermen. All night long the boats are to be seen out-

side fishing, and there is a regular market where one must go very early if ho wishes to obtain any fish. They bury their dead properly, and plant crotons and cocoanuts over their graves. They have no form of worship, but believe in the spirits of the departed, which they prefer to remain away, but they allege that they sometimes do come back. The country at Keripooah is well suited for coffeo. The whole country thence to Hoolah, being green from tho sea to the tops of the hills, has a very different appearance to the other parts visited. Leaving Keripooah, the party proceeded to Teste Island, whero the people received them in a friendly manner. Up to that timo they had not met with any cannibals, but coming to the south-east end of Teste Island a different raco of people were found. The men

were much shorter, and the village showed unmistakcable signs of cannbalism, skulls hanging up in front of the houses. When asked by signs what the skulls were for, the natives informed the party that they were those of enemies killed at Port Moresby or in that direction. They were, however, friendly to the party, barteriug sugar cane, yams, &c, for hoop iron, beads, and red cloth. These cannibals do not smoke, but they chew the betelnut, and are quite delighted to hold a conversation and chow betel-nut for a couple of hours at a time. Leaving Teste, they proceeded to Moresby Island and Hoopiron Bay. Here the natives were not so friendly. They came alongside in an impudent manner, all-armed. They were rather shy, at first, about coming on board and they would not do so without their arms. All vessels going to that part of the "coast should make it a rule not to allow natives to go on board with their clubs or spears. The next placo they reached was East Cape, Kilieton Island, where no safe anchorage was found, but where there is fine country. The Bertha had sent a boat's crew ashore there for water, and the men finding the natives becoming troublesome by crowding round the boat pulled backed to the vessel, where they were also giving trouble. The vessel was cleared, and, during the night, rifles and blue lights were fired off, and before daylight next morning the anchor was weighed and she set sail. This should not have been done, as it gave the natives the idea that they had frightened those on board the vessel away, and nothing is more dangerous than to give them cause to think one is afraid of them. The party then proceeded to South Cape, Stacey Island. The passage between the island and the mainland is so narrow that persons can converse across it. The natives there are all cannibals, and they came for miles around, up and down the coast, to look at the white people. They would gather round, sit down and wonder at the strange white man and white woman (Mrs Chalmers). On landing at South Cape, the native who acted as their guide wore a human jawbone as an ornament. He had killed and eaten the original owner. Having determined to J remain at South Cape Mr. Chalmers selected a spot some distance from the village and purchased two acres of land from the natives, for which he paid £3. After he had been there some days, he saw an armed party coming along, blackened, he knew one of the men and spoke to him, but without answering they passed to the house. Mr Chalmers pressed on to reach there first j they surrounded the house with their spears poised, and the chief, under whose protection he was living, rushed out and ordered one of the teachers to get a gun. One of the armed party came forward, and as well.as he (the lecture)could understand, demanded some axes and hoop iron, and threatened throat cutting unless .his demand was granted. He (Mr Chalmers) then gave him to understand that nothing would be given to any armed man, but that if the chief came without arms, he would give him a present, but not otherwise. He showed the natives he was angry, but seeing that one of the native teachers had brought a thusket and that one of the natives was going to throw a spear, be stepped for* ward took the spear from the man, and afterwards threw the musket into the sea. When he took the spear the native saw he was friendly and desisted. It would, be saw, have been useless to fire, as, although one man might have been shot, dozens of others would have thrown their spears. The lecturer said he disapproved of any missionary carrying arms; he had never done so himself. He would pass over the attacks oh the Mari, and the three days' siege his party sustained afterwards. About three weeks after the attack, having determined to visit the enemies on the other side of the Cape (no white man had ever gone there before), he asked an armed man to accompany him, but the man refused, saying the natives would kill them. The man sent a young lad for some skulls, and, pointing to them, told the missionary that if he went they would take his skull also to adorn their village. He was not to be deterred, however, from going, and taking a native teacher with him, they sailed round and landed on the beach. A crowd of natives, armed with spears, gathered round and seized both his and the teacher's bands. He thought the warning he had received was true, and felt particularly uncomfortable. He said to the native teacher he thought they had better go back, and | made signs that they wished to do so*' but the natives would not let them. They used a word " Nono," he had never heard before, and pushed the two captives before them. Mr Chalmers then spoke to the teacher and told him to show no signs of fear, and after having been dragged or pushed some distance, they found that the poor natives only wanted to show them that they had plenty of water. If any of his hearers should go to New Guinea, ho would ask them to treat the natives kindly. He advised the people of Cooktown to keep a good look ' out on New Guinea. Cooktown is the best port for" trading and communicating with .New Guinea, from which it is only three or four days distant. Whenever possession of New Guinea is taken, some think that Bootless Inlet and not Port Moresby will be the settlement. Bootless Inlet will be the port in future, for the country from the Astrolabe range to Luluke, and on the Mount Stanley range. The country to the south-west is adapted for coffee, cotton, sago, and other productions, and that about the Luluke for rice plantations. If, in a future day, payable gold should be discovered in the country already indicated it would be easier to get there from Port Moresby than it is at present to go inland to the Palmer from this port.

Throughout the delivery of the foregoing Mr Chalmers was listened to with the greatest attention, and at its conclusion was greeted with prolonged applause. Mr Baird proposed and Mr Beardmore seconded a vote of thanks to the lecturer, which was carried by acclamation.