ME STANLEY'S MISSION.
The Biver Livingstone.
A Land of Ivory Souses.
The Thirty-two Battles.
(FHOM THB DAIIT TEUKJBIPH, XOY. 22.)
TO THK EDITORS OF THE DAILT TBLBGRAPH AND NEW TOBK HBBAI.D.
Loanda, Wbbt Coasi of Afbica, September 5,1877., ;
When the Anglo-American Expedition left Zanzibar, November, 1874, Her Majesty's consul had just received instrnctions from Lieutenant Cameron to forward his letters to Falls of Yellala, as that gallant officer had announced his intention of following the Lualaba to the sea. From the day I received this information I was under the impression that the best thing for me to do was to follow to the letter my instructions, which would take me far from his field of exploration, though eventually I should have to touch at a point where his decision, as well as my own, would have to be made. Acting under that impression after exploring Lake Victoria, I led 2,280 men across hostile Unyoro. Such a large force was necessary to pierce the country of JLabba Eega, against whom Sir, Samuel Baker had warred, and with whom-Gordon Pasha was thenlfighting. Once launched on Lake Albert in my exploring boat and canoes, 2,000 men of this force were to return to the Emperor of Uganda, and I was to pursue my way across Lake Albert and penetrate the region beyond with the view to reach Nyangwe, and then resolve on my further course. We reached Lake Albert, January, 1876, descended to the lake, made observations for latitude and longitude, took altitudes, Ac, and endeavored to complete arrangements for crossing the lake. We were unable to do so, for such avast force was gathering to punish us for our temerity, and to close us in, that we.were compelled to retreat. Eeturmng to Uganda, I released the Uganda escort, and travelled south on a road parallel with Speke's, but weatof his road, to Karagwe. I devoted a month to explore the Alexandra Nile, then marched south-west to prosecute that river to its source. Famine compelled us to abandon the project I had halfibrmed to penetrate the region south of Lake Albert and north of Lake Tanganika, and I was obliged to move further south still, finally arriving at Ujijt. At this place I heard first that Cameron had abaadoned the Lualaba; but the reports were not Tery clear. However, I circumnavigated the Tanganika, and afterwards set off for Nyangwe with the intention, if the above report was not confirmed, of penetrating the northern regions as far as Monbuttu, and then of cutting across Africa along the watershed that separates the Niger basm from the Congo basin. Arriving at Nyangwe I saw tho Arab« who had escorted my predecessor to Utotera, or King Kasongo s country, and they gave mo abundant proofs that Cameron bad proceeded south in company with Portuguese traders. The causes that led him to abandon such a great taskwMe,as they told me, " Impossibility i
of getting canoes, and savage character of the river tribes below," At first I was rather elated at being left alone to explore this important field, but my feelings of joy were somewhat damped when I reflected, upon hearing all the Arabs had to report about it, that I should very probably pay dearly for the privilege. Frank was by this time an enthusiastic explorer. Africa agreed with him; his powers of endurance were immense, and no matter what field I proposed, or what project I made, 1 was certain of Frank's support. One midnight we resolved to* gether that it was our duty to try it, and if beaten we felt that no one could blame us very much when we had over twenty illustrious examples who had from rarious points attempted to penetrate the unknown half of Africa, but were obliged to return unsuccessful.
The reports about the savage character of the natives of the bash, and their 7 cannibalism, the ferocity of a tribe of dwarfs, &c, considerably reduced the courage of our people. 80 in order to prevent their desertion I engaged a great Arab chief and his followers to escort us 60 campg along the river banks, under the idea that such a distance must necessarily enable-us to reach some friendly tribe either west or northeast. This addition to our force restored the confidence of my people; and on If or. 5 last year we left Nyangwe. We were unable to picture to ourselves any idea of the new strange mysterious halt ox Africa on which we wece now entering. Everything we heard of it only tended to dispirit us— " terrible dwarfs/ " ferocious eanajuball," "poisoned arrows," ." treacherous natives," 'an eternal forest," *nd a " fierce rirer," which few believed could have an end. All we knew was that our purposes were upright, that pur cause was good, that we bore malice to none, and were more than willing to be charitable and forgiving, even if hard pressed. Alas! the forest through which we travelled three weeks proved, too truly that TJzimba and Southern Uregga were nothing but one dense gloomy thicket, infested with most uncharitable people. Each day's task was a heavy diplomatic one; we labored with might and main to preserve the peace, and fortunately succeeded, not because of our diplomacy alone, but rather from the fear that we might prove too powerful. The length of this forest, its density, and gloom, and the fearful discomforts each day's march through the terribly doleful region provoked, proved too much for our Arab escort. It disheartened them, and they talked of returning. This plunged me into a new dilemma that I little anticipated, but, unable to withstand the temptations of the wild, unexplored region, I proposed that we should strike for the river, cross it, and try the left bank. After much deliberation and argument pro. and con., the proposition was accepted, and we reached the river in S. lat. 3deg. 35min. 17sec, just 41 geographical miles north of Nyangwe. We began to put up our faithful boat, the Lady Alica, and in two hours she was launched for the first time on the Lutlaba. My tent was pitched close to the bout, and a comfortable plot of soft young grasa induced repose where J could contemplate the calm, majestic rirer, and my picturesque surroundings—isles of undying verdue, long black winding walls of great trees. It was here the resolution never to abandon the Lualaba until it revealed its destination I,* was made. I mastered all my people and Arab escort, and* pointing the great rirer to them, I told them—for the sight of that mysterious stream had warmed me to a high pitch of enthusiasm—" This great river ha* flowed on thus since the beginning, through the dark wildlandsbeforeus.andnonun, either white or black, knows whither it flows; but I tell you solemnly that I believe the) One God has willed that this year it shall be opened throughout its whole length, and become known to all the world. I do not know what lies before us. We may meet very bad people, we may tuffer hunger. We may die. We are in the hands of Heaven. I hope for the best. As we do not come for war, we may make friends of the people; we have enough property with care to last a long while, and to buy the friendship of chiefs. You my people, will therefore make up your minds that I am not going to leare this rirer until I reach the sea. You promised at Zanzibar, two years ago, that you would follow me whererer I wanted to go for two or three years. We hare still a year before us, but I promise you we shall reach the sea before the year is out. All we have to do then is to say, "In the name of God," and follow me.
The young men, in number about 60 t stepped briskly up, and shouted out, " In the name of God," adding, " Inshallah! Master, we will follow you and reach the sea," but the oldest had many misgiving*, and shook their heads gravely.
We soon became acquainted with th« worst side of the natives of thil region* and they presently demonstrated their wildness. After five or six hoars' talk they agreed to make blood brotherhood with a white chief, but the white chief must proceed with only a few men to an island in the middle of the river. Frank Pocock volunteered to go through the disgusting ceremony for the benefit of all concerned. I conveyed him and 10 men, armed with revolvers, to the island, as guns might arouse suspicions; and I took position < on the right bank of the river with 30 armed men, to be ready should the natives intend treachery. We had not waited above an hour before we noticed signs of great excitement in the neighborhood of , the island, and heard violent *fcyts and and peculiar war cries. Immediately we ! dashed towards the island, where we saw about thirty canoes loaded with men, some standing up in the act of launching spears. Our sudden appearance, however, scattered them, and from Frank we learned that their behaviour had been anything but friendly. However, no harm was done, except that the natives, by sounding the war cries, alarmed those down river, and caused people who perhaps might have been disposed to be friendly to assume the offensive. We were too powerful to be openly attaoked, for our united forces numbered about 800 fighting men; and, so long as they contented themselves with vocal violence and some hideous gestures, no one would be harmed.
As we had arranged, we crossed over to the left bank, and after a ihort stay moved down river in- two divisions, one l>y land and one by water. That day we were separated; the land party were subjected to many difficulties; they lost the road, and we, ignorant of the cause of their non-appearance, floated down the Lualaba as far as the liiuki River, and camped at the confluence. Two days passed by, and, as no news was heard of the land party, I ascended the Biuki River about 20 miles,
leaving my httlo camp in charge of 25 men and boys. After searching the Riuki Hirer banks for traces of tho land party, I was approaching camp, when we beard musketry, and, as we imagined that ' it announced the arrival of tbe land divison, we hastened to welcome them. Our astonishment was Tery great to perceive tho narrow mouth of the Eiuki blocked with canoes loaded witb savages, and to hear rifles at earnest work, as if the position of the little camp and its defenders was desperate. We gave a shout to attract the attention of the savages, and tbe effect was immediate, for tbe canoe 3at once vanished, the savages paddling down tho Lualaba. After arriving at camp we congratulated ourselves that all were safe, though their position here at one time had been dangerous, since tbe camp partyhad permitted tbe savages to come within five paces of the camp before they resolved to fire. The spears and pointed sticks thrown into the camp made quite a bundle. This was tbe first fight on the Lualaba, and our first initiation to savage warfare on the Great Biver. The savages might return in greater numbers than ever, and for them to have attacked us with skill and boldness would have been our utter annihilation. It therefore behoved us to communicate with the laud division, of which we had heard nothing for two days. Five of the boat's crew volunteered to set out overland in search of the missing people. After several hours' toiling through the dense bush they found a fjightly used path, which soon brought Spm face to face with the scouts of the land party, and before night we were all gladdened by their appearance. Two days' march north of the Kiuki brought us to falls—tbe falls of Ukassa. The Arabs and people were rather glad, as they seemed to think that this would certainly compel me to abandon tho foolish journey, for they themselves have suffered terribly by cataracts. You may remember that Livingstone said he had "no intention of attempting the foolhardy feat," and no desire to become " black man's meat." This sentence was written while all the Arabs at "Nyangwe mourned for the loss of 30 men, three large canoes, and much valuable property which had been swept over a fall 15 mileß below Nyangwe. I took 10 of the boat's crew and proceeded overland, thereby almost falling into an ambuscade. But we were all bush people, and cauld not be caught. We explored the banks, and examined the nature of the falls. Returning to camp to commence the operations, I was astonished to hear that two of my captains, with two soldiers had desperately resolved to explore the rapids by water, and had consequently been taken over the falls, capsized, and sucked down in a whirlpool, after which they had not been seen. This was terrible news. If they had escaped the whirlpool they could not escape the fleet of canoes below tbe falls that had been assembled to dispute our passage down the river. I instantly retraced my steps through the bush with 50 men to lend them aid, and wo fortunately arrived in time to save them, as they were floating down river with the canoo upside down—one captain defending himself and party with a revolver, for their Sniders were lost except one which had been prudently lashed within the canoe. I thought this was exploration with a vengeance, and I informed them that the next time they disobeyed orders they would be left to their fate ; but it "was scarcely necessary, as the narrow escape they had had was sufficient to frighten them from further investigations on their own account. Despite the hopes of our Arab escort, the Falls of Ukassa were passed without loss, by simply allowing the current to take the canoes over the falls, and.picking them up below. It was done so expeditiously that the natives had no time to dispute tbe passage—for before they bad reached the scene our river division were seated in. the boat and canoes, and we had formed a compact line of battle, with the land division protecting jur left flank. The natives did not attack us, and we weie allowed to pass without firing a shot, but to all attempts at reconciliation and gifts they turned deaf ears. On the 6th of December we arrived at Usongora Meno, an extensive country, occupied by a powerful tribe. Tbe belligerency of the natives increased. As soon as they caught sight of us on the river they came with fierce demonstrations, numbering 14 large canoes, against our six canoes and boat Lady Alice. An Arab, who was a "passenger " through illness that day, was told to speak them fair, to explain to them who we were, what we had come for, that we were riob, and that we were able and will-
ing to pay oar way. Fifteen minutes were spent in this mid-river palaver, His answer was a shower of poisoned arrows; which fell a little phort of our boat. Though we had 18 sick of smallpox lying in the canoes, we charged on them and cleared a passage through. The land party was also attacked in the bush, and several were wounded, for they had ventured too near.the country of the warlike tribe of the Bakusu, whose trade is war on b large scale. Small-pox now begins to rage in our Arab escort, there were 18 deaths within two or three days. Dysentery attacked us, ulcers formed on the limbs of many, incapacitating a large number from marching, until boat and canoes were merely floating hospitals. In this condition we arrived at Vinya Njara, 125 geographical miles north of Nyangwe. This day the river had again j^taken us further than the land division Acoald possibly reach in two days. To be continued.
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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/THS18780128.2.11
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Thames Star, Volume VIII, Issue 2794, 28 January 1878, Page 2
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2,671ME STANLEY'S MISSION. Thames Star, Volume VIII, Issue 2794, 28 January 1878, Page 2
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