FRUIT CULTURE.

Temuka Leader, Issue 2709, 8 September 1894, Page 3

FRUIT CULTURE.

Mr J. C. Blackinore, Government Pomologist, delivered a lecture on fruit culture in the Parish Hall, Temuka, last Wednesday evening. The lecture was delivered under the auspices of the Temuka Horticultural Society, and the chair was occupied by Mr Herbert. There was a fair attendance, but no doubt it would have been much larger only for the fact that several other meetings were held on the same evening. As the lecture is extremely interesting and useful we have decided to give it in full. Mr Blackmore spoke aa follows:—A. short tune since, when on a visit to Temuka, I promised Mr Smith your respected nurseryman, to give an address at Temuka on "Fruit Culture." I have much pleasure in meeting you this evening, more especially as I appear before you under the auspices of the Temuka Horticultural Society. I propose addressing you on general fruit culture, its requirements regarding the selection of sites, preparation of the soil, planting, pruning, and general management, with remarks on the apple and peach, drying and preserving of fruit, aud, if time will allow, how to combat insect pest. Success in orchard work depends on making a right start, and to a certain extent the young orchardist will have to exercise his best judgment; rales in one locality and under one set of conditions that would be good, might, if blindly followed, be detrimental in another. Profitable results from fruit culture, like all other pursuits, can be expected only by the exercise of forethought, and by every effort put forth systematically arranged ; this especially applies to the selection of ■oil; situation, varieties, pruning, and after-management. The first consideration in regard to the planting of an orchard is the situation of a site with regard to aspect; this, if possible, should be chosen where some natural obstacle exists, auch as a hi'V or a plantation of trees, to break the force and influence of prevailing winds; where no such obstacle exists naturally a belt of rapidly-growing tree 3 should be planted, simultaneously with the planting of the orchard, and, in districts subject to late frosts, an elevated situation, if obtainable, is to be prefern 1, for the reason that low-lying grounds especially if near water the vapours which arise in the night get condensed upon the foliage and flowers of the tree; should frost follow in the morning at theblossoming season, the young fruit runs great danger of being cut off. The reason why the apricot is more successfully grown on a hillside or ridge surrounding other hills is the colder strata of air seeks the lower regions and forces the warmer current upwards. However, extremes in elevated sites should be avoided, as they are often exposed to bleak and exhausting winds which cause excessive evaporation from the foliage, aud seriously check growth; besides,unle :s their exposed sites are well protected by high living windbreaks the fruit is liable to be all shaken off. The first consideration regarding the so ;1 should be the condition of the soil; regarding moisture, all soils not perfectly free from stagnant moisture, both above and below, should be drained. Draining is of vast importance as regards increasing the temperature of the soil. For instance, water at 40deg. Fahr. has the well-knowa properties of being heavier than at any other temperature ; that from this point it becomes lighter and lighter as its tomperaturo aßceuds, and also aB it descends unt ; ' it assumes the form of ice. Hence warm water, as well as ice, will float on cold. Now if the soil be saturated with water colder

than that of Bummer rains, these rains cannot descend to warm the ground, but when the cold water is drained off below by proper drainage the water can percolate downwards, and communicate its heat to the soil, rendering it congenial to vegetation. Besides, where the soil is drained rain water and air have alternately free access to the various substances in the soil, and important chemical changes take place. The majority of settlers are well acquainted with the various contrivances for effectually draining the land, but to those who can afford the outlay, and where convenient, to obtain the best means of draining drain tiles of a size corresponding to the amount of water to be carried off should be used, being careful to always select a good fall or outlet for the water. Another important consideration is the depth of soil required for orchard purposes. A deep soii is requitite to enable the roots to penetrate freely in search of food, and to enable them to withstand the demands of protracted droughts. In this respect soils vary materially, and, even where naturally deep and loamy, few soils in their natural condition can be considered I as in a proper condition for the reception of fruit trees without a thorough preparation prior to the planting by subsoiling and ploughing, or by spade trenching, to loosen and deepen the soil to the requisite depth. The cheapest and beßt method where large quantities of ground are to be prepared for extensive planting is by aubsoiling to the depth of at least 18 or 22 inches. Spade trenching is more suited for orchards of limited extent, but when well done to the depth of 24 inches will amply repay the extra cost. Whichever plan is Adopted &t the outset to improve the depth of soil, do it well, for bear in mind that in the after culture nothing will be found so expensive or so troublesome as an illprepared soil. If convenient to do so, it will be all the better to have the process of preparation began a year before the plants are to be set. An excellent opportunity then offers for supplying any defects in the soil. For instance, a clay Boil that is too compact can be improved and fitted for fruit trees by incorporating with it sand, peat, or any material that will render the soil more porous. On the other hand, if the soil is too light and aandy, clay or stiff loam can be added. Also in places where manure is available it is advisable to put evenly on the surface and plough it in; the quantity to apply will depend on the necessities of the soil and the quality of the manure. For the continued healthy growth of fruit treeß a soil should be in duch a condition as to furnish a sufficient supply of nutriment to ensure a vigorous and robust growth—that will ripen its wood, firm the buds plump and close together, and the parts well proportioned. Manures before planting the treeß should be well decomposed, or they will excite the trees into a growth that is rank, and the wood never matures properly. A dry, firm soil of medium texture, moderately rich, is on the whole the best for fruit trees. Such soils produce firm, wellmatured growth, and when well managed all fruit trees may be planted promiscuously side by side. They will do well, and yield bountiful crops of the finest fruit. A well-drained scU, between clayey and sandy loam, suits the apple and pear, aud if it contains amongst its organic parts a little lime it is the most fertile soil the apple and pear could be planted on. " The plum succeeds beßt on a clayey loam, rather stiff. The peach, nectarine, and apricot do best on a dry, sandy loam. The cherry, if worked on cherry stock, does best on light, sandy loan 1 , but if worked on mahaleb stock doeß fairly well on strong, clay. There are four general schemes of laying out an orchard—the square, in which the trees are planted at an equal distance from each other; the quincunx, which is the square with an additional tree' in the centre; the triangle or alternate; and the hexagonal, which increases the number 15 per cent, over the square. The hexagonal is considered the more economical of room, aB the trees so planted stand equidistant from each other, and every three trees form the corners of an equilateral triangle. It. gives to every tree an equal amount of room. It also allows for cultivation in all directions, and the orchard is accessible from all sides. However, the best orchards in fruit-growing countries are laid ont in squares—that is, the rows of trees are all at tight angles to each other. This is the simplest arrangement, and by large planters is held to be beßt. There are various ways for marking. For squares perhaps the most simple is a common two-horse plough, rigged with a marker, a light wooden bar extending at right angles from the beam, the bar being as long as the desired distance between the rows of trees. On the end of this bar a cross-piece is fastened perpendicularly, so that it scratches along on the surface of the ground. The line of the first furrow is to be designated by a flag-Stake, to which the ploughman proceeds. When this is done the team is turned aud Bent back along the next row, the location which has been fixed by the | marker, and so on for the length of the field, the marker being turned each time to indicate the next furrow. Following the same course the other way of the field, leaves the trees to be planted at the intersection of the furrows. In planting a Bquare of, say, 10 acres two parallel avenues should be run through the field, dividing it into three plots of equal Bize. This is done by leaving out one row of trees to form the avenue. Likewise sufficient distances should be left between the trees and the fence to allow a team to pass along without coming into contact with the trees when full grown. Fruit can then be collected on the avenues or along the lines of the fence without carrying any long distance. When land has been staked for planting large orchards, no matter how carefully the stakes are placed, in layiog out the orchard the trees will not easily come in a line; a handy device, called a tree setter, is then used for bringing the stem just into the place occupied by the stake, which was thrown out in digging. A veiy good one is made by taking a pieco of board one inch thick, four inches wide, and five feet long, bore a one-inch hole in the centre, then cut a piece from one side of the board, marked by a square, the corner resting in the middle of the centre hole, make two stakes, each one foot long, that will easily pass through the end holes, place the centre of the board against the stake where the tree is to be planted, push the stakes into the grouud through the holes in the end, thou lift the board from positiou and proceed to dig the hole, when dug roplace the board over the end stakes in its former position, then plant the tree with its trunk resting agaiugt the centre notch in the board. vou have it just iu the place. In the selection and purchase of trees go to honest and intelligent men, who keep thomeelves well informed., as they should about their business. Such a man if ho be a local nurseryman, may bo able to give you valuable advice; he kuows, by his experience and observation, much about varieties that are suited to your district. If for auy reason local uuraory-

men do not meet your needs Beek some well-established nursery at a distance; if possible visit the nursery yourself, and see the stock, ask to see the roots as well as the tops, and select good mediumsized treeß, straight, and healthy, and don't forget that to obtain a firßt-class article from an honest nurseryman, you must expect to pay a fair price. Trees selected merely because cheap may prove the most expensive thing a man may put in the ground. Guard against purchasing insects as well as treeß. Invest in a hand magnifier, such a glass should always be in the fruitgrower's pocket; examine the treeß to discover scale insects, and if there be any reject the trees at once; but should you be led to purchase trees, and afterwards feel doubtful of their being clean it would be well to dip them, both roots and tops, for 16 or 20 seconds at a temperature of 110 deg. in a mixture to be prepared by dissolving iu 25 gallons of water the following:—Four-fifths of a pound of caustic soda, with 6ilb of soft soap. Having purchased your trees, the .roots, after lifting, should not be permitted to dry, and if to be sent a distance siioald be well packed. On arrival at their destination the treeß should be heeled in aB soon as possible, each variety by itself, and the labels carefully secured until the trees are required for planting. In planting the trees' it will bo advisable to plant each kind of fruit separate, likewise the varieties by themselves. If, however, the extensive planting of any one variety is intended, it is better not to plant the one variety alone in extensive blocks, but to occasionally m?x other varieties amongst them, for at the blossoming period the extra varieties so mixed in will be found materially to assist in the fertilization. There is some difference of opinion among even experienced cultivators as to the most favorable time for planting. However, the two main things to observe are the dormancy of the tree and the proper condition of the Boil. (J<? be continued.)