Modified Austerity Clothes Will Be Produced In N.Z.

Taranaki Daily News, 26 August 1942, Page 4

Modified Austerity Clothes Will Be Produced In N.Z.

Press Assn.

Proposals submitted to trade.

Wellington, Last Night.

There would be nothing drastic in the simplified clothing scheme being prepared for wartime purposes, the Minister of Supply, the Hon. D. G. Sullivan. said to-day, and there was no need for rush buying. The public would not be called upon to make sacrifices that would not yield a corresponding benefit to the commur«;.ty as a whole. It appeared that the maximum saving could be affected with simplification without unduly interfering with individual design, taste and personal preference, continued Mr. Sullivan. Waistcoats would not be cut out, because such a course would lead to a demand for woollen pullovers. While new specifications might be introduced overnight, there would be supplies oi ready-made clothing available for some time to come. Proposed Restrictions. Proposals for the simplification of clothing are reported to have been submitted to the trade in New Zealand, embodying restrictions 'similar to those introduced in other countries. When these come into force, it is expected that no more full-length frocks, including afternoon, evening and dinner frocks, will be manufactured. Garments which, it is understood, may not be made include bridge coats, coatees, cloaks or wraps, except Vaterproof capes; beach wear, except bathing suits, shirts or shorts; and two-piece frocks including ensembles with long coats, jackets or boleros. Proposals formulated by the Standards institute, working in collaboration with the Dirqcfor of Production, the National Service Department and representative manufacturers, to give effect to the simplification of clothing have been received by manufacturers of men's, women's. boys' and girls' outer clothing. Production of clothing on modified austerity tines will follow fairly closely the practice now adopted in other countries, with due consideration for climate and other special conditions. The proposals which have been circulated to manufacturers for simplified outer clothing for women and girls, the effective date for the operation of which Was yet to be fixed, will, it is reported. j not include bridal gowns, service uni- i torms, clothing for persons requiring , special garments because of physical ab- j normality, garments solely for theatrical : production, maternity dresses, infants' \ ivear (up to two years of age), or re- i ligious vestments or robes for other ap- | croved orders or institutions. ! It is suggested that women's and girls' garments shall not be manufactured with

seams oversewn by hand; yokes of double material (except school tunics); balloon or leg-of-mutton sleeves: more than two patch pockets on coats or one on skirts; separate or attached hood, shawl, cape, muff. scarf, bag or hat; skirts having a bottom width or sweep or more than 78 inches; costume skirts with more than two pleats; and skirts having a floor clearance of less than 14 inches for sizes up to 40-inch hips and of less than 10 inches for hip sizes, 41 inches and over. Practically similar exeeptions from the proposed simplification code are allowed for men's and boys' outer clothing as for women and girls, who have one extra class applicable to them only. Restrictions which have been suggested for men's, youths' and boys' coats apply principally to the non-manufacture of belts or half-belts; double-breasted fronts; pockets more than four in number and having flaps, tags or buttons; buttons or button-holes which are not us'ed; facings of more than four inches; pleats or yokes or raised seams, vents; hems more than one and a-half inches wide; sieeves fancy or open with buttons. Similar restrictions are proposed for sports coats, but they will not be allowed more than three pockets. No Unnecesary Features.

It is proposed that blazers should not be manufactured with material which can be used for outer clothing for men or women. This will not apply to schoolboys. Linings will not be permitted, nor braids or ornamental cords. Waistcoats, it is proposed, should not be manufactured with back straps, unnecessary buttons, or double-breasted front. It is intended that trousers, including sports wear, should not be manufactured with cuffs, pleats, raised seams, tunnel loops, hems more than one and a-half inches wide. Overcoats should not be made jwith facings more than six inches wide, belts or half-belts, unnecessary buttons, double-breasted or fly-fronts; pockets with tabs, buttons or flaps (except on raincoats); more than two pockets; a greater length than 14 inches from the floor; excessive linings and other unnecessary features. For some time the footwear trade has had special specifications covering designs in women's shoes, and these will j become operative on October 1. It . is considered that there is insufficient diversity in the designs of men's footwear to warrant the introduction of a simplified scheme for manufacture for them. A special formula has been drawn up determining the number of designs according to output. Where the output does not exceed 20,000 pairs there will be 20 designs, with two additional designs for each 1000 pairs after that figure up to 100,000. There will not be more than 18 cut-outs on any one shoe, and except on the tags of court shoes underlays will not be used.