IN THE GARDEN.

Taranaki Daily News, 27 November 1926, Page 8

IN THE GARDEN.

SEEDLING PLANTS. BUILDING FOR TWEEN SEASONS. BEAUTIFUL Bl ENNIALS. Biennial plants are raised from seed one year, bloom the next, and then die, or at least deteriorate rapidly. They are of special value in the garden because most of them, when raised at the right season, help to fill the gap between the ordinary spring and summer displays. The sowing of this class of plants is one of the most important duties that devolve upon the gardener at this season. Among the best of the biennials are:—Canterbury Bells, Sweet Wiliams, Dian'vhus (or Indian Pinks), Foxgloves, Cheiranthus, Coreop- , sis, grandifiora. Honesty, Silent, fecabiosa, Stock (Brompt on), and Wallflower. Sown now, the plants will develop into good large elumps that will be certain to flower next year.

Canterbury Bells are one of the most important of this class of plant®, but when sown late two yeare may elapse before the plants attain flowering size. The seed may safely be sown in the open ground, either in very shallow drills or broadcast on prepared beds. When the seedlings are large enough they should be put out into a nursery bed, the rows being one foot apart, with half that distance between the plants. From this bed they can be planted out in the autumn or early spring. The seed of Campanula pyramidalis, a near relation of the Canterbury Bell, does not do too well when sown outdoors. It should therefore be raised. in boxes under cover, the plants being pricked’ off into boxes before being put out into the open ground. Sweet William seeds, tyo. are better raised in boxes, because otherwise the tiny seedlings are apt to fall a, prey to slugs and They will not stand coddling, however.

Indian Pinks (or Diauthus) are related to the Sweet Williams, and treated as biennials they are one of the easiest thing to raise. They may be readily raised outdoors, and provided the seedlings are pricked off before they become overcrowded good bushy plants will be available for planting out in autumn or spring. These pinks have been greatly improved of late years, and may now be had in several colours from white to rose, pink, and crimson.

One of tl.e most valuable of biennials is Coreopsis grandifiora. Both as a garden plant or for cut blooms it is invaluable. It is sometimes treated as a perennial, but is at its best .when raised as a biennial. It is very easy to raise, the seeds coming up like weeds. The seedlings should be pricked off six inches apart as soon as large enough to handle and put out into their flowering positions in the autumn, spacing them 15 inches apart. Stocks of all kinds are general favourites on account of their delightful scent. The biennial variety—the Brompton Stock —is well worth the room it takes. The plants should be raised from seed sown now, so that they may attain a good size before winter sets in. As these plants grow to a great size, planty of room should be allowed them, and four feet apart is not too much if they are grown in good ground. In raising good plants possibly the most important point with biennials, as with annuals and perennials, is to prick off the seedlings before they become crowded in the seed bed. When allowed to remain the plants become drawn and leggy and are apt to develop collar rot. The double move, first into a nursery bed and finally into their flowering quarters, induces the growth of fibrous roots.

FLAG OR GERMAN IRISES. These plants may either be. divided and replanted just, after they have finished flowering, or in the autumn. It is generally considered by experts that the best time is immediately after flowering. It is not itecdssary to lift and divide irises every year, but when the clumps bee ime too crowded they should certainly be attended to. They increase rapidly, and unless divided every third year the ground becomes exhausted and the plants suffer. If it is desired to increase the stock of any particular variety without lifting the .whole clump, some of the outside pieces may be removed and replanted in new quarters. Pieces with two or three leads to them, made into new plants now, will flower well, next year. Need - Jess to say, plants moved at this season should not be kept long cil of the ground, so the positions should be prepared beforehand. Irises root very freely, and like a fairly rich soil, well drained and with plenty of lime. Work some manure to a good depth. These are not water plant®, as is so often imagined, and require ample drainage. When planting allow sufficient space between the plants, 15 to IS inches at least. Plant with the rhizome just below the surface, but the roots should be as deep as they will go. Wonderful improvements have been trade in these plants of recent, years, and at the present time flowers of a very wide range of colours may be obtained, most of them at reasonable prices. SPRING FLOWERING CREEPERS. Any elimbing plants on fences, pergolas, or arches which have finished, flowering can now be rather severely pruned, but they should not be clipped back with the shears. The right principle is to ent out some of the old wood, especially the parts which have flowered well, and tie or nail in the young growths instead. This cutting out of the old worn-out wood encourages the growth of young wands. Leave enough growths to give the climber a chanee to cover its allotted space with flowers next spring. Some creepers that send out twining growths, such as clematis, honeysuckle, and wistaria, sometimes get their growths into tangled ropes, a number of pieces trying to clinch each other and getting right away from their supports. These tangled growths should be unravelled at once, spread out to cover the greatest surface possible, and tied in place. Attention to this matter makes a wonderful difference to the show of bloom the following season. Many of the rambler roses will be sending up strong growths, generally from the ground level. These growths ar 6 easily broken off by the wind. so. should be tied In for support. If there

are too many of them the weaker ones should be pulled out, retaining sufficient to furnish the tree with new wood upon which next season’s flowers will be produced. STAKES AND SUPPORTS. All tall-growing plants require support of some kind, especially in windy localities. Some varieties are particularly susceptible to damage by rough weather on account of their brittle or hollow stalks. The best ■ method of staking is to use neat but strong stakes, which should be driven in as near the plant as possible. Raffia is the best tying material for most subjects, and should be tied -to the stake before bringing it round the stem of the plant, in every ease the stakes should be placed, so as to be as little conspicuous as possible. With such things as delphiniums, which make 1 rapid growth at this period, staking should be done as early as possible, as if once the growths are blown over it is very difficult to get them into position again without ruining them. The planting out of annuals of all kinds should be continued whenever ground is available and conditions favourable. During dry spells it is advisable to puddle Die plants in. Make the holes with a trowel and fill with water before putting the plants in, finally filling in the hole and making the plant fairly firm. In this way the plants will grow on without a cheek, and no further watering should be needed until the seedlings have taken hold of the ground.—-“ Practical” in Wellington Post.