IN THE GARDEN.

Taranaki Daily News, 30 December 1922, Page 11

IN THE GARDEN.

TOMATOES. FERTILISING THE CROP. ! (By "Agricola.”) When a body of vegetable refuse and other waste products of the garden is gradually reduced to ashes through the agency of what is termed in garden phraseology, a smother fire, a valuable plant food in the form of potash, and excellent soil purifiers in charcoal and lime are rendered available for use. Potash is a requisite compound of all soils devoted to tomato culture and it is through the judicious use of this manure that the heaviest crops of the best quality fruit are invariably obtainj ed. The corrective action of charcoal and lime upon tomato soils also tends to increase the crop and promote its welfare generally. Thus it is evident that the ameborative properties contained in the black residue from the smother fire, and which, unfortunately, are frequently being wasted, are of great value not only in tomato cultivation but for all kinds of garden vegetation.

Potash may also be applied to the crop in the concentrated form of sulphate of potash Kainit is another potash manure that can be used, but it is not so refined as the former kind.

Nitrogenous fertilisers, such as nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia should never be given to the crop,, for they are altogether too forcing in their action. Tomatoes are of strong growing habit, so that by adding nitrogen to the soil a rank and consequently soft growth is encouraged, with the result that the plants readily succumb when blight is prevalent. Superphosphate should be given to the soil previous to planting, or when the growth is poor and the plants are loitering. It should be mixed with sulphate of potash, in the proportions of one pound of the latter to two pounds of super., mixing them well together and applying at the rate of one ounce around the stem of each plant. METHODS OF APPLYING POTASH. The ashes from the smother fire may be sprinkled over the soil at the base of the plants, and lightly forked under the surface. Two good cupped hands full to each plant will suffice. Later on, when the fruits are commencing to color, a further and similar quantity of the ash can be given.

Sulphate of potash must be applied with caution as too liberal an application will do harm. A teaspoon-ful to each plant is a safe quantity to use when it is distributed evenly over the ground within about a six inch radius of the stems. It should afterwards be worked lightly under the surface soil with a fork. The sulphate nay be conveyed to the roots of the plants more quickly iby dissolving it in water, in the ratio of one ounce to a gallon of water. WATERING AND MULCHING. The timely mulching of the soil around the plants is of the highest importance and the trouble is well reaid in the improved quality of the i-uits, extra vigor of the foliage, and patthier conditions in the plants genrally. Tn this province the rainfall ’.tiring the next few months will probbly be inadequate for tomatoes growug in positions that are very freely rained, so that ay mulching the plants n good time a cool root run is assured i nd a lot of unnecessary watering may be obviated. But even when a layer of manure, or other materials suitable for the purpose, have been applied to the surface of the soil, attention must be given to watering in a period of drought, for on no account must the soil about the roots be allowed to become dry when the fruits are swelling. One of the principal factors in tomato cultivation lies in keeping the soil moisture uniform as far as possible. Too frequent saturation of the ground and numerous light surface dribblings are of equal detriment to <he crop. No hard and fast rule can be laid down as to how often watering should be done, as so much depends on the condition of the soil, the time of the year, and the age of the plants. As a general rule it is safest to saturate the soil down to the roots and to repeat the operation when more water is wanted. In all cases where a mulch is to be provided, the ground, if at all dry, should be thoroughly watered first, and afteiwards lightly broken up with the fork. MATERIALS FOR. MULCHING. The supply of a sufficiency of suitable materials for mulching involve the exeercise of forethought and perseverance. Many substances useful for the purpose which are constantly being wasted should be carefully saved. In a small garden everything suitable within reach should be utilised when decayed horse manure or cow dung is not available. Lawn mowings, decayed vegetable refuse. or litter may be employed with excellent effect. Leaves anay also be used, but they should be partly covered with soil as otherwise the first, strong wind will scatter them in all directions. PRUNING. Lateral growths which start in the axils of the leaves must be removed as fast as they form. A wild growth of laterals tends to prevent a free circulation of air, and the desired hardening of growth. It also creates a moist atmosphere and the plants are thereby rendered much more susceptible to blight. With regard to the number of leading shoots to allow to each plant, the single stem deserves preference and this method of growing tomatoes has been- extensively adopted, although plants saving two branches are almost equally popular. Here it is advisable to state that support should be given co cue J plants in good time. Some growers train them on wires, or to strong upright stakes, but the system of allowing the plants to recline on dead branches is not to be recommended in these days when blight is so prevalent. SPRAYING Although tomatoes generally are developing a healthy growth, and assuming the foliage is free from fungal and insect pests, i< is nevertheless necessary to employ pe/ventive measures in order to keep the plants in this condition. This may be done in the instance of fungal pests, by spraying the plants regularly with Bordeaux mixture. Of late years iiuigoid diseases have extensively destroy, d tomato crops in all parts of the Dominion, and it is now recognised that a thorough system

of spraying must accompany all other operations if success is to be achieved. The intelligent use of such fungicides will contribute vastly to the end in view, for it has been repeatedly proved by actual experiment that the employment of medicaments have been the means of saving many promising crops from infection.

The damage caused to tomatoes by attacks from insect pests is also considerable. The most troublesome of these is the caterpillar, which eats its way into the fruit, hi some cases riddling them through and through and rendering them quite uselesi for human food. Two or three sprayings at intervals throughout the season will prove efficacious in keeping the vermin away, but it must he understood that the fungicides previously mentioned are useless .for the pui-pose of eradicating insect pests. Lime and sulphur solution is the proper remedy to use but care must be taken not to apply the preparation to the plants in too strong a state. Othiy equally reliable insecticides, with directions for using, may b? obtained at the dealers.

It is advisable in using a fungicide or insecticide for the first time, to try it on one plant only, so that if the preparation is too strong or is deficient in strength the fact will be obvious within twenty-four hours. By experimenting in this ‘way a great loss may be avoided.

Much can be done to eradicate caterpillars by hand-picking ajid where only a few plants are grown and are daily subjected to a close examination, no other measure of combatting the vermin will be necessary. Woodlice are also very partial to the fruit, but they are seldom troublesome when the bottom clusters are kept clear of the ground and the plants are staked. GENERAL. Sowing and planting can be done to conform with the recommendation given in last week’s notes and to which the following may be added. Plant runner, French, and wax beans. Lima beane are a delicious vegetable tha. may still be planted. The dwarf kinds should be planted in rich soil about six inches apart, allowing two feet between the rows. The tall growing varieties may be grown in the same way as runner beans. The usual method of preparing Lima beans for table is to shell them before cooking and serve with butter.

Sow beet, cabbage, savoy, lettuce, peas, parsley, salads, and turnip. Plant out broccoli, cabbage, savoys, curley kale, and leeks, and finish planting celery. Shallots and garlic that are ready for storing should be lifted and placed in the sun for a few days to become thoroughly dry. Keep the hoe going regularly between all crops and thin out promptly when the work is necessary . THE FLOWER GARDEN. CARNATIONS. Carnations must not be neglected at this period of the season if a display of long duration is expected. The best stimulant to apply while the plants are in flower is weak manure water that has been darkened by the addition of a small quantity of soot. It should not be difficult for the average growei to concede this requirement, for even if no other source of supply is available, the necessary quantity of manure can invariably be obtained from an adjacent roadway. A kitchen fire shovel full of horse or cow manure is sufficient to make a kerosene tin full of liquid manure. It should remain for about twenty-four hours before using, and then be broken down in another receptacle to half its strength with clear water. When soot is added it should be placed in a sugar bag. or piece of coarse scrim, in company with the manure and immersed in the water. DAHLIAS. The mistake is often made of mulching the surface soil with heavy dressings of rank manure, which tend to poison the health and vigour of the plants. Well decayed manure onl|y should be used and if this is not at hand grass mowings or decayed leaves may be employed. Another commonly made error is that of watering the plants with preparations containing nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia. By applying stimulants of this nature the plants speedily become gross and soft, and the quantity and quality of the blooms are consequently meagre and commonplace. If, before planting, the soil has been deeply dug and manured with suitable material there should be no occasion to u«e stimulants of any kind upon the plants. Feeding should be reserved until the plants are developing their bloom-buds. Abundant moisture is their principal requirement au present and it should be afforded during dry spells. If the plants are producing a redundancy of shoots it will be advisable to remove some of them so that a free circulation of air is permittedStaking should receive immediate attention, if the work has not already been done, as the brittle stems are easily damaged by strong winds. In tying take care that the ties will not cut the growths. The ties will require be examined occasionally during summer and autumn. Old clumps of dahlias are providing a useful supply of blooms for cutting. The flowering period of the plants can be extended by mulching, and watering occasionally with weak liquid manure. ROUTINE WORK. Clear awav the withered’ foliage of bulbs, and lift and .xtore ranunculus. Heath plants should never be mulched with rank manure. If well rotted dung is not available, use lawn mowings or decayed leaves. Keep the plants well supplied with water, hut do not use liquid stimulant of any kind. A considerable amount of work will be required in keeping flowering plants 'denuded of their faded blooms and seea ■ vessels. Sweet peas, summer chrysanthemums. verbenas, ealliopsis. pansies, violas and a host of others should receive this attention. Clear away the remains of autumn sown annuals that have finished flowering and after digging and manuring the ground, plant out hardy or half hardy annuals for autumn flowering. Give half hardy annuals a nose of weak liquid manure occasionally, but do not allow it to touch the, foliage. Care must be exercised when ; hoeing among chrysanthemums as i many of the roots are quite I-lose '•<) the surface and are therefore liable to injury if the hoe : s used carelessly. The 'benefit of a mulch here becomes apparent, as by its Lmely application, the necessity for • h-'e'*’ r disneneed vith. Watering also A oh"'"-'’ to a considerable extent by mulching.