IN THE GARDEN.

Taranaki Daily News, 23 December 1922, Page 11

IN THE GARDEN.

THE VEGETABLE PLOT. NEED FOR WATERING. (By “Agricola.”) Land that has been deeply worked and well enriched with manure will suffer little from drought, especially if mulchings have been applied as previously advised. When watering <is necessary it should be done thoroughly and systematically, as otherwise more harm than good will result. One of the »vorst effects from merely sprinkling the ground is that roots are induced to form too near the surface, and as roots in this position cannot withstand the effects of a few hot days, they quit•: ly perish and the plants suffer in consequence.. In gardens where a good supply of water is available it should be given in abundance during protracted spells of dry weather, performing the work, as far as practicable, during late afternoon or in the evening. In cases where extensive areas have to be gone over, and cultivators are restricted to time, it is best to water a portion each day in order to saturate the ground, and taking several days to accomplish what would be done in a few hours by mere surface dribblings. Applications of manure water should follow the watering of vegetables, as liquid stimulants are much more effective when applied while the ground is moist. A few hours after completing these operations, loosen the surface soil between the crops with the hoe. t .

Another commendable practice is to syringe or lightly hose the leaves and stems of vegetables in the evenings of fine days. Almost every kind of vegetable benefits from the treatment, even to carrots and parsnips. In the instance of runner beans it operates beneficially in assisting the flowers to set. Turnips require a cool root run in summer, as the plants cannot endure the occasional dryness to which light soils are subject at this season. A good soaking once a week will suffice, for the frequent watering is not good for the crop, as it causes the centres of the bulbs to decay, and also encourages an excessive leaf growth at the expense of the roots. CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. Cabbage and cauliflower that are planted out now must be given plentiful supplier of water and be shaded from the sun for about a. week. Earlier plantings should reecive every attention, particularly in regard to watering, as the lack of moisture in the ground is one. of the principal causes i of cauliflower forming small and worthless heads. Liberal doses of weak liquid manure should be applied about every six days with advantage. Broccoli may be treated in every respect the same as cauliflower, but the soil about the plants should be kept firm. CARROT. Thin out the main crop as early as possible and sow a few rows of an ®a- r v variety for use in late summer. Dust a little superphosphate or basic slag along each side of the drills when the seedlings are well above ground, LETTUCE. Special preparation of the ground is essential if good lettuce are to be secured from summer cultivation. Trenches should be excavated to a depth of about fifteen inches and at least twelve inches in width. On the bottom of these place a six inch layer of decomposed manure or decaved vegetable matter, and replace a portion of the excavated soil so that the surface is two or three inches below the surrounding level of the ground. Rake the surface soil even and fine and sow the seed thinly, a quarter of an inch deep, along the centre , of each trench. Thin out the resulting growths promptly if the seedlings are at all crowded, repeating the operation at intervals as the plants develop until they finally stand eight inches apart. Water must be given copiously in dry weather and liquid manure also be regularly applied. The most effective stimulant for this crop is nitrate of soda when applied in liquid form by dissolving a handful of the nitrate, in a kerosene tin full of water. RADISH. The secret of growing crisp and tender radish in summer lies in keeping the plants well supplied with moisture so as to encourage a quick maturity. The seed must be sown in good soil, however as radish grown on poor ground is invariably tough and pungent even when extra attention is given them, A deficiency of natural manure in the soil may be overcome by the simple expedient of dressing the surface of the ground with superphosphate, at the rate of a handful to each yard of row, before I sowing the seed. Always sow in drills; broadcast sowing will spoil all attempts at good cultivation. The remainder of I the work of growing succulent radish I consists of early and severe thinning and hoeing after rain has fallen or , watering has been done. I GARDEN REFUSE. I Every opportunity should be taken to clear the ground of weeds, which ought never be allowed to develop their seeds. Weeds together with cabbage and caulii flower stumps and other waste products I of the garden are likely to become . offensive when left to accumulate and 1 decay in odd corners. Such refuse, to I he profitably and effectually disposed oi, [ should be placed at the bottom ot a k deen trench or pit where it will evenR tuallv become valuable material tor I dressing the soil. THE FLOWER GARDEN. LAYERING SHRUBS B Many hardy and half-hardy shrubs, ’ of such plants as a?aleas, daphne and $ rhododendrons, which are with ditticulty increased from cuttings, may be v propagated readily by layering. Bianc ies A that are near the ground should be HI selected for the purpose and of the ten w or more methods of preparing t e I shoots, those of tongueing. notching ami A ringing are the best. Before preparing i the shoot the soil around the plant J should be lightly broken up with a fork A'and in most cases it is advisable co x; add some fresh soil. The layering o shrubs bv a “tonsue” ent is very simi- * hr to firn layering of carnations by A this method except that it is on a B larger scale. The portion of the stem

to be inserted in the soil should lie cleared of the leaves and be cut in a slanting direction towards the point of the branch on its under side. The shoot must be pegged firmly into the soil, care being taken to see that the /’tongue” is kept open. Notching and ringing differ only from tongueing in that by the former method a notch is cut out of the under side of the branch, and in the latter method a ring of bark is cut away. The layers should be securely laid to stakes and the soil in which the shoots are inserted must be kept in a moist condition. A few varieties of shrubs form roots quickly, but many require to remain attached to the parent for a year and some for two years. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. The plants should now receive every attention in order that a steady and unimpeded growth may be encouraged. Frequent hoeing and watering when necessary are the prime requisites of th© plants at their present stage of development. Jf the final pinching of the shoots has not been done, the operation should be attended to at once. The plants should be syringed occasionally with clear water. Staking must be done without further delay as otherwise damage to the stems may ensue from heavy winds. The proper time to commence feeding the plants is when the flower buds appear. WALLFLOWERS. The seed of these subjects is often sown too late, with the result that the growth is not thoroughly ripened and the plants present an indifferent display of bloom. At their best wallflowers should be compact little bushes of bloom, exhaling a delicious and peculiar perfume that few other flowers can equal. The seed should be sown now in a fairly open position. Rich soil is quite unnecessary on which to raise the plants, in fact, the best results are obtained by sowing on rather poor ground, but it must be well broken, up and rendered, even and fine. When the plants are two inches high, transplant into rows five or six inches apart, allowing three inches between the plants. When the flower beds are cleared of their summer occupants, the plants may be set out in the vacant ground. Some of the plants will produce a few blooms in late autumn or early winter, but their full glory will not be manifest until early spring.