IN THE GARDEN.

Taranaki Daily News, 16 December 1922, Page 11

IN THE GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES. SUMMER GROWTH. (By “Agr'icola.”) It is ofter remarked in gardening phraseology that December is the holiday month of the year, because, in a considerable measure, the principal operations of the year may be considered as- over. In gardens where provision for the -autumn and winter supplies of vegetables has been attended to, very little work of a strenuous nature will be necessary, but the usual routine of thinning, hoeing,‘weeding and watering when necessary, should be diligently pursued in order to promote a healthy and vigorous growth among crops. Supplementary sowings, however, can still 'be made of runner, lima, French and wax beans, beet, cabbage savoy, carrot, lettuce, mustard and cress, peas, raddish, and turnip. -Marrows and pumpkins may be sown now to provide fruits for winter use. This plan will be found much more satisfactory than transplanting these subjects at tnis season, more especially in the instance of purchased plants. Seeds put in now will quickly germinate and, with proper attention, the plants will make rapid growth. Cucumbers- may also be treated in this way, There are numerous vegetables that may yet be planted. They include: i>roccoli, borecole, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, leeks, potatoes and tomatoes. ASPARAGUS. Asparagus cutting should now cease, for it must be borne in mind that the plants require a sufficiency of time in which to recuperate from the past season’s exertions and also to store up the material to make robust shoots next year. Liquid manure will greatly benefit the asparagus now, and a dressing of salt, in the ratio of a handful to the square yard, may be given with advantage. The liquid stimulant can be prepared from natural substances, or in artificial form by dissolving a handful each of superphosphate and nitrate of soda in a kerosene tinful of water. Hand weed the beds and insert twiggy stakes in order to protect the tall green growths from heavy winds-. It often happens that the stems are snapped by storms with the result that the rootsare deprived of their valuable aid and are weakened for their future work. BEANS. The produce from runner bean plants is especially valued during summer and autumn when peas are over and other vegetables- are comparatively scarce. A planting should be made now to supplement the main crop and thereby carry the supply well into winter. It is always a good investment to plant these legumes in soil that has been thoroughly enriched, for just so far in proportion as food is available, so will the plants give their return, either in tenderness and succulence, or toughness and tastelessness. The best method of cultivation is to excavate a trenjeh eighteen inches deep and about fifteen inches wide. Along the bottom of this place a six inch layer of partially, or wholly decomposed stable or cow manure. Tread this fl mi and fill the trench to within three inches of the top with the excavated soil. Rake this even and plant the seed in pairs, two inches deep and eight inches apart along the centre of the bed. If both seeds- in each planting germinate, remove one of them, preferably the weakest. In the absence of natural manure, break up the ground

to a depth of about fifteen inches, and mix with the surface soil a dressing of superphosphate or basic slag, at the rate of one pound to each four yards pi row, before sowing the seed. French, wax or lima beans may be treated in precisely the same method as recommended for runner-beans, and with a certainty of giving a much more satisfactory return than when grown in the ordinary way. Thick sowing and the resultant over-crowding of the plants is mainly the cause of indifferent yields from bean crops. Assuredly there can be no comparison between the produce from plants that aye allowed ample room for development and those grown in a crowded condition. The foliage of the main crop of runner beans should be syringed with clear water in the evenings of line days in order to assist the flowers to “set.” It is at this juncture that liquid manure will materially aid the plants. Gather the pods regularly even if there are only a few for the plants will cease bearing if the seeds are allowed to swell. GENERAL. Draw the soil up round cucumber, marrow, melon and pumpkin plants as they progress and apply manure water occasionally. These plants will derive much benefit from an overhead syringing after a hot day. The recent humid weather conditions have favoured the propogation and distribution of the potato blight, and very few crops in this district have escaped its pernicious influence. Very I'ttle good will result from spraying badly infected shawri, for, at the best, blight specifics are merely preventative agent' and not curative. The best thing to do is to lift the potatoes at once, even though of small size, and burn or bury the shaws deeply. Tubers infected with the disease should be separated from the sound ones to prevent contamination occuring. THE FLOWER GARDEN. The weather conditions of late have favoured a rapid growth among all recently planted flowering subjects. Asters in particular are developing a healthy and vigorous growth and this condition should be encouraged by stirring the surface soil between the plants occasionally, but not deep enough to injure the roots. A top-dressing of decompo<sed manure if applied now will operate beneficially in keeping the roots cool and moist and also tend to promote the strong growth of the plants. The use of fres-h manure should he strictly avoided nr in a week or so the ' plants will bear a scorched appearance. Weak liquid manure water may be ap- . plied every few days, but care must, be taken not to allow it to touch the foliage. The tall varieties should be given support by means of neat stakes. Insert these on that riide of each plant towards which it leans, as this will take the strain off the tying material. A plenteous supply of water must be afforded the plants during dry spells. Dinlip.s should never be allowed tn attain large proportions before staking

f ’ is proceeded with, as the brittle stems when unsupported are very susceptible , to injury from strong winds. One I stake, at least, about four feet long ( should be inserted near each plant, and two or three others will have to be supplied before the branches extend very far. In most gardens the first flowers of delphiniums are over and if the stalks ’ are promptly cut down, instead of being allowed to seed, the flowering season of these handsome subjects will be considerably extended. A mulch of well decayed manure will be of great assistance to the plants, and an occasional dose of liquid manure will also help them materially. Zinnias are difficult to transplant except as small seedlings; hence it is advisable to choose, if possible, a showery day for doing the work. The plants should also be shaded with inverted flower pots- or sprigs of such as small camellia boughs, for a lew days. Zinnias also derive much benefit from a mulch of decayed manure which may ibe spread around them as flowering time approaches. Canterbury ;bells may be sown in the open to provide plants for flowering next -season. To raise a fine stock of the varieties of these subjects, the s-oil should consist of two parts leaf mould, one of loam, and one of sharp sand. I The seed is then sown thinly in lines | on an even surface, and covered with • about an eighth of an inch of fine soil. I The bed must be shaded until the seed- | lings appear, after which thinning should be done if the plants are at all J crowded. In autumn, transplant with i care into their flowering positions-. Those who desire to raise gerbera plants from seed should sow ni boxes „ immediately the seed is ripe. The soil most suited to -gerbera is a light porous compost consisting largely of fibrous loam, with the addition of a little leaf soil and silver sand. The compost should he put through a fine meshed sieve or rubbed well together with the hands before placing it in the boxes. Efficient drainage must also he provided, and this can be ensured by first making a few small holes in the bottom of the boxes and placing over them a layer of cinders or finely broken brick. On top of this put about a two inch thickness of old and well broken up stable manure, or decayed leaves; then fill the boxes nearly to the top with the compost. Make the surface firm before sowing and cover the seed lightly with , fine soil. Firm the surface again, shade with white-washed glass and stand ; in a eool and sheltered place. When watering is necessary place the boxes in a i tub, containing two or three inches of i water, for a few minutes. Immediately the seedlings- begin to appear the coverings must be removed or. drawn and weakly specimens will result. When the t.inv plan are fit to handle they I should be pricked out. two inches apart into other boxes of suitable compost.