IN THE GARDEN.

Taranaki Daily News, 18 November 1922, Page 11

IN THE GARDEN.

GROUND HEAL (By “Agricola.”) It has long been known to those in touch with the working of soils for purposes of cultivation that certain geological structures are easier to manage than others on account of their porosity. That is one of the reasons why a retentive heavy soil is always colder, and the crops on it later, than others of a lighter description. A Wet soil cannot be as easily heated by the sun’s rays, or even by artificial forces, ae a body of porous earth. The water in the surface soil may become to a certain extent warmed, but the heat which it absorbs is quickly given off by evaporation. Water also excludes air and, when in excess in the soil of a garden or in that contained in a flowerpot, it prevents the necessary formation of suitable food and generates poisonous gases. Water will not conduct heat downwards in sufficient quantity or as rapidly as may be necessary during spring and in the growing seasons of garden crops, the majority of which are natives of somewhat more favoured climates; neither will it prevent the radiation and absorption of the necessary amount of heat at the lower depth during winter 'by the surface soil. In summer the reverse takes place, which is-a very necessary provision, especially in hot weather. During the passage of the air through the plants and the lower earth the degree of heat is modified by its absorption of the moisture, which, as it permeates upwards through the soil, creates an increased supply of food for the plants by the roots without injuring their excitability. It has been proved by actual experiment that in Nature, in all climates and seasons, plants enjoy a much warmer and more uniform temperature about their roots than about the stem and branches; that even in winter, when in some climates the ground is often frozen for many weeks, or even months, the roots are exempt from what the branches are subjected to. The soil, especially when well drained, is several degrees warmer at the depth of eighteen inches or two feet than at half that depth. This order of things, however, is reversed during the summer, and why is this so? Simply because it is necessary to the healthy, vigorous growth of the plant. To further illustrate this point, we will take for example an exotic fruiting plant, such as the peac’h. Its roots are during the winter, at the greater depth, warmer, being entirely without the surface cold, so that they are enabled to carry on effectually their winter action and also that when the excitability of the tree is stimulated by the warmth of returning spring, there may be a sufficiency of food ready and in close proximity to the deveiopmg buds. BOTTOM HEAT AND DRAINAGE. The gradual importation and retention of heat by the soil at its lesser depth encourages the formation and extension of young and very absorbent root fibres in that direction, where they are destined to work more greedily than at the lower depth. The advantages of top dressing, or mulching, garden crops, and the intelligent use of liquid manure in hot, dry weather, are evident. The most active feeders are then in the best position to perform their allotted work ‘ within the influence of heat and moisture, without a sufficiency of which they cannot act satisfactorily. From the fact that water excludes air When in in the soil and will not conduct heat downwards, arises the great necessity for the deep cultivation of garden ground to a greater depth in some localities than in others. Where the ground han not been trenched for several years, very often a solid pan, or crust, forms just below the part where it has been dug. This is formed by the combination of iron, potash, and various acids which have been washed through the loose soil and settled on the firmer subsoil. In some soils an excess of water is prevented from soaking away for a considerable time after rain ha’s fallen because of the crust, consequently the ground becomes wet and cold because warm air cannot penetrate until the surplus water has drained away. It is for this reason that plants like tomato, melon, and marrows or species of that kind, and also tender flowering plants, that require soil warmth, languish for so long, and often perish after being planted out in spring, a* condition which may also be brought about when the plants are exposed to a protracted spell of cold, wet weather, such as has been experienced recently. But the risk to plants from these causes is minimised when free drainage is permitted by deep and thorough cultivation of the soil. If this is well broken up to a depth of two fi t. and tsome suitable material worked into the subsoil to keep it open, all water will pass regularly through, leaving in the soil the carbonic acid and ammonia brought down from the atmosphere. Roots, also, can work more freely and am enabled to take up the food that has been rendered soluble and ready for them by the carbonic acid. Here is the advantage of drainage which counteracts the radiation of heat and consequently maintains a greater depth and uniformity. THE LEEK. It is difficult to understand why the cultivation of the leek is neglected in the average garden. A probable reason is because an impression prevails that the crop is a difficult one to grow, whereas the simplest culture will suffice to produce handsome specimens. As an article of food it is one of the most nutritious of all vegetables and when properly prepared for the table there is nothing of its class that can surpass it in flavour and wholesomeness. Another commendable feature in connection with the plant, its freedom from blight — a most desirable quality rarely found in vegetables that are subjected to cultivation in summer. The leek, as a crop, is amenable to cultivation by devious methods, any of which may be adopted in accordance with the amount of garden space available, or in conformity with the resources at the cultivator’s command. They may be planted eight inches apart, between rows of potatoes, when about six inches in height, in alternate rows, if the ground can be spared, as by this means more room will be allowed for digging the tubers. After these have been removed from the ground, the soil in which they were grown can be used for earthing up the leeks, doing the work at intervals as the plants progress Another, and commonly adopted plan, [is to set them out on good, deep soil,

in rows, two feet apart and eight inches between the plants. When giant growths suitable for the show table are desired the seed should be .sown seven months prior to the date of the event, as a long season of growth is requisite for the proper development of the vegetable. When the plants are about the thickness of a lead-pencil at the stems, it will he necessary to transplant into a trench that has been richly prepared and worked, about two feet deep and eighteen inches wide. A Spade’s depth of manure shouW be placed in the bottom and about four inches of well prepared soil mixed with it, afterwards spreading a similar quantity of fine earth over the mixture. After shortening the grass-like loaves slightly, the leeks may be planted, taking care not to cramp the roots up. Some growers use stiff, brown paper “collars” for the purpose of assisting in the blanching, the “collar” is tied loosely round the stem, when the plants are about half grown, and the crop is then earthed up gradually. Plants that are set out now should be ready for using aibo-ul mid-autumn, and from a sowing made during the next week or two, with proper management, a supply of stout growths will be available for using in winter and spring, at which time other vegetables are scarce. The seed should be sown either on a bed, and the subsequent growths transplanted, or thinly in drills, a quarter of an inch deep, where the plants arc to stand. The thinnings from either sowing may he planted out, if room can be found for them, so as to augment the supply. Whichever method of cultivation is practised, water must be liberally given in very dry weather. If liquod manure is (applied to the plants Weekly, after they have commenced to grow freely, and a light dressing of superphosphate given every four weeks, it will tend to greatly increase the size and quality of the steins. The saturation of the ground has boon thorough, but the plentitude of moisture will speedily evaporate’ under the influence of solar heat. It is now’ that mulching or frequent hoeing will act beneficially in assisting to preserve the valuable agent in the ground; the use of the hoe will also counteract the solidifying action of rain upon the soil, so that air and warmth may enter. FLOWER GARDEN. VALUE OF SHELTER. We have passed through rapid changes of weather, from bright sunshine to heavy rains, and from warm, seasonable conditions, to those of turbulent and winter-like severity. Plants, like animals, feel the effects of variations of temperature, more particularly at the present season when fluctuations of the temperature are intensified by the increased power of the sun. The experiences of the past few weeks has demonstrated the advantages of providing shelter, even to a partial degree, for young and tender bedding plants, many of which are natives of more congenial climes, from cutting winds that are accompanied by heavy rain-storms. Complaints have reached me that many young plants have perished owing to the excessive cold and ram, and in each instance the losses have occurred in gardens exposed to the full force of the elements. Cold winds and pelting rains make short work of weakness in plants exposed to their influence, especially while in a young and delicate state. Tn this connection, the mere .shelter of bushes or a hedge is often of the greatest importance to plants. These act as a screen to check the cutting winds and shut in especially favoured spots and their sifting action is one of the best wind-breakers. A hedge in this respect often serves better than a board fence or wall. Air in motion rushes against those and like a horse in full gallop it frequently leaps- headlong over it, and falls on the heads of the delicate growths on the other side. Therefore, as a mere barrier to the wind, a living screen, such as. a hedge or belt of -shrubs, is- as effectual as a brick wall. GENERAL. Quite a number of subjects that are at present in flower, or are nearing that stage, should be afforded supports, as these in many instances serve the dual purpose of providing protection from high winds and in exposing the full beauty of the flowers to view. Among the plants that require this attention are: Canterbury bells, carnations, dahlias, delphiniums, digitalis, gladioli, hollyhocks, lupinus, and stocks. In exposed gardens the tall growing antirrhinums should be. staked. Continue to remove the faded blooms from flowering plants, as otherwise their season of blooming will be considerably reduced. This treatment applies- particularly to pansies, violas, mignonette, nigella, poppies, and verbenas. Sweet peas should be examined at least twice weekly, when in flower, in order that all faded 'blooms may be removed immediately this condition is reached. This simple attention will greatly prolong the flowering period, as the ripening of even a few seed pods quickly puts a stop to flowering. The seed vessels- should also be removed rom antirrhinums as soon as the plants have gone out of bloom and this will enable the plants to give an additional display later in the season. Ranunculus should not be lifted until the tops are sere; they may then be placed in paper bags and stored in a cool, dry room or shed. Carnations will require to be disbudded if large blooms are desired. Quite a host of small buds will be formed on each branch of the flowering stems and it will be advisable to remove many of these, even if medium sized blooms are required, as the surplus of small buds would conduce to a display of small and indifferent flowers. An excellent opportunity is afforded by the present moist condition of the soil to set out. half- hardy annual plants. These subjects are difficult to transplant and whether they have been raised at. home, and are of suitable size, or are to be procured from other sources, they should be put in their dowering quarters with as little delay as possible. Stir the surface eoil lightly among flowering plants where ready access to the ho? is permitted. The lawn creates the most restful scene in lhe garden and for this reason alone it is deserving of every care and . attention.. Ae a result of the copious rains, a strong grass growth will now ; be evident, and this will require to be ' cut twice weekly, afterwards trimming I the edges so as to give the sward a ; neat and finished appearance. If coarse ! grass stems arc visible rake the lawn over so as to expose these growths to the machine blades. ■*,