IN THE GARDEN.

Taranaki Daily News, 4 November 1922, Page 11

IN THE GARDEN.

A SOURCE OF INTEREST AND PLEASURE.

AN ENDLESS VARIETY.

(By

“Agricola.”)

One of the greatest of all the sources of enjoyment resulting from the possession of a garden is the endless variety which it affords, both in the processes of vegetation as it goes forward to maturity, dormancy, or decay, and m the almost innumerable kinds of plants which may be raised even in the most limited space. Labor, in dealing with inanimate objects, has not that enticement and recreation about it which are ever present to him who, aiding nature, witnesses the results of daily toil in living plants changing their forms and colors day by day. Thus there is a. deal of lasting pleasure to be derived from the different operations of gardening, independently altogether from the health resulting from the exercise. Investigation into apy one of the principles of vegetable’igrowth will develop another, and they in time will be found as intimately connected with all the allied branches of natural science as to create a desire for further knowledge of what before- were mysteries, but which the intelligence of the present age has developed into realities. A well cultivated garden will awaken enquiry and start trains of thought and study which otherwise would not be pursued.

THE VEGETABLE PLOT. Under the combined influence of strong sunshine and stimulating showers, vegetation is now in full activity. Many weeds, groundsel especially, will now be coming into flower, and if allowed to seed will entail a, lot of unnecessary work in keeping them down later on. A most effective and profitable way to dispose of weeds and vegetable refuse is by means of a deep pit dug m some out-of-the-way corner of the garden. If soot and lime are occasionally springled over the material the process adds considerably to its value when again returned to the ground from which it came. A large pit will perhaps take three years to fill and wnen its fermented contents are taken out, a coarse sieve should be employed so 'that sticks, stones, bones, bits of china, etc., will not get returned to the ground. The stuff is generally like coarse black earth, and is full of food that will be readily taken up by all sorts of vegetable growth. Even if not dug into the ground it makes a valuable top-dressing on beds or borders and is soon lost in the existing soil.

ROUTINE WORK. Cucumber, marrow, pumpkin and melon plants require to be kept well shaded from strong sunshine for a few days after being planted, and watered each evening if the weather is dry. Plant tomatoes while the ground is moist, and stake those set out earlier. Strong stakes should be used as the plants, when in full bearing, put a considerable strain on the supports, more especially when swaying under the influence of a summer gale. Lateral growths, which start in the axils of the leaves, should be removed «s fast as they form. Either one or two of the leading, or continuation shoots, according to the system of training adopted, must be retained and allowed to extend. A row of celery may he planted now for early use and if the weather is hot and dry, shade, and give water. The work of transplanting should be quickly. but well done, otherwise the plants are likely to suffer a check which would seriously affect the after produce. Lettuce, if sown in trenches, prepared as for celery and thinned out, will form good hearts, and be valued at a time when lettuces are scarce.

Plant out. as required, another batch of cabbage and cauliflower plants, and in the absence of rain give frequent and copious waterings, alternating with an occasional dose of liquid manure. Lack of water is often the cause of cauliflower maturing long before their proper time. The ground for this vegetable can scarcely be made too rich. Spray potatoes on a fine and dry day, with Bordeaux mixture or vermorite. Either of these may be purchased in a prepared form and this course is recommended when only a small quantity is required. One pound of the mixture to ten gallons of water is the proper strength to use. Earth the crop up as required, and keep the soil loose, by hoeing between the rows. Continue sowing, for a succession, as required, broad, Trench, runner and wax, or butter beans. The latter three, if sown during the next few weeks, will supply tender pods when those from the earliest sowings are almost past. Sow. also, autumn giant cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, savoy carrot, beet, spinach, silvei’ beet, borecole or kale, turnip, mustard, press, onions for pickling, radish, endive, leek, lettuce, peas, pumpkin, marrow, cucumber, melon,, egg plant, parsnip and spinach. PEAS. The best crops are obtained from late spring and summer sowings when trenches are prepared as for celery, but less deep, and the peas sown in them, .as the trenches can be easily soaked with water in dry weather. The vigorous growth thus ensured will be proof against mildew. When manure has been placed well beneath the surface of the trench, the roots of the plants penetrate deeply in search of the food and consequently a more vigorous root growth is secured than if the roots are nourished near the surface of the ground.

THE FLOWER GARDEN. ASTERS. The aster in a young state is probably the most susceptible of all haithardy annuals to sudden fluctuations of temperature, and for present planting, where practicable, positions should he chosen that ensure plenty of sunshine and Shelter from the cold south-east or mountain winds which it is usual to experience about this period of the year. A spell of cold winds after they have commenced to grow will give them a blighted appearance, the leaves curling up, and assuming a purple tinge, but most of them eventually grow out of it. A gentle syringing of weak insecticide, made with tepid water and applied on a warm evening, is helpful. Sometimes an apparently healthy plant will die off suddenly; this may be caused by a brown grub, which eats the skin and flesh just near the surface of

the soil, and may often be caught. Similar happenings are caused by slugs, and also a disease named stemming, which is attributed to an over-rich soil. A liberal dusting of lime to old garden ground is of great benefit to the aster and stock families, and if a little soot is added, it is a further help to give the young plants a chance to start life without the attacks of vermin.

It is an item of considerable importance that the young plants should be strong, healthy, and stocky when put out, and if nicely watered in, with sun warmed water, they stand a chance ot commencing to grow without a check. It is an advantage to make sure there is a nice ball of soil to each young plant when transplanting, or the check of removal may be detrimental. If the weather is had, there is no need to hurry the operation, as plants that experience fine weather, although set out lat.r, will soon pass those handled at an earlier date. As regards watering generally, it is necessary that it should be done thoroughly; a couple of good dosings during a week are infinitely better in dry weather than a light application every evening. Tn gardens where asters have been, or are about to be planted, a sowing can he made, if space permits, to provide plants for supplementing the first display of bloom, and thereby prolong the season of flowering. The results from further sowings will be much more satisfactory if the seed is. sown where the plants are to stand. Detailed instructions with regard to preparing the ground and sowing the seed were included in last week’s notes.

RHODODENDRONS. The early removal of dead flowers is of great benefit to the bushes, particularly in the case of all young and recently removed plants, and from those that are showing signs of exhaustion. When the plants are left to mature their thousands of seeds, the strain thus caused to the plants is considerable. and tends to seriously affect the •formation of strong flower-head s for next seasons display. The' removal of the dead flowers must, however, he done with extreme caution, as the the new shoots start from the base of the flower stern, and unless care is taken, these shoots are likely to be broken or re moved in company with the dead blooms. Where rhododendrons are grown extensively it is often impossible to relieve them all, but if a start is made with tlie earliest blooming varieties, and the work continued at convenient intervals, much good may be done.

GENERAL. The frequent rains have rendered the soil in perfect condition for the reception of half-hardy annuals, and these plants should be got in when settled weather conditions prevail. Dahlias, to be realised in theT best, form, should be planted in thoroughly rich soil. Slugs and snails are very partial to newly-planted dahlias, hence the surrounding soil should be dressed with soot or lime immediately after the plants are set out. Apply water liberally in dry weather, and in staking take care that the ties do not injure the stems. Rose plants should be given liquid manure twice weekly, but the soil should bo moist at the time of its application, for then liquid stimulants are much more effective. The manure water, if strong, must be diluted to one half or one third of its strength with clear water, -for it is better to apply it in a weak condition than to run the risk of causing damage to the roots, which in certain to occur when the manure water is used too strong. Soot is a remarkably good fertiliser for roses when applied with liquid manure. Remove faded or dead blooms from all rose plants and stir the surface soil about them frequently with the garden fork or hoe.