GARDEN NOTES.

Taranaki Daily News, 23 September 1922, Page 11

GARDEN NOTES.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. (By "Agricola.”) As a prelude to the recommendations given in the following notes on vegetable culture, it is necessary that amateur cultivators should observe the law of supply and demand as to whether extensive quantities of certain vegetables are required or otherwise for the household requirements. Discretion, therefore, rather than following instructions blindly, should always govern the work of sowing and planting. ASPARAGUS. The beds should be hand-weeded, as it is impossible to use the hoe without damaging the asparagus. Keep the surface of the beds loose forking very lightly and carefully over,, and cut the stalks as soon as they become ready,gven if there are only a few. As an asparagus bed, when in full bearing, is putting a considerable strain on the resources of the soil, a stimulant in the form of liquid manure should be applied occasionally, either from natural sources, or made in artificial form by dissolving an ounce each of superphosphate and nitrate of soda to each gallon of water. A fortnightly application of this will have a wonderful effect. DWARF BEANS. A deeply cultivated, rich free loam and an open, but warm situation, is required to grow dwarf beans to perfection, but good crops can be grown on any fairly productive soil that has received a reasonable degree of attention in the matter of digging and fertilising. Perhaps the most common mistake in growing this crop is over-crowd-ing. The seeds are cheap, but if they cost a penny each the plants would often obtain better conditions. The drills should be drawn two inches deep and two feet apart. Plant rather than sow the seeds, placing two beans together at intervals of nine inches in the drills and cover evenly. If both beans sprout, pull up the weakest. The surplus beans may be carefully transplanted into any gaps that appear in a row. By treating the seed as described, a pint of beans will go a long way; the quantity and quality of the crop will be superior, and the plants will continue to bear for a much longer period than when they are grown in a crowded condition. RUNNER BEANS. The soil and climate of Taranaki is admirably adapted for growing these legumes, as is evidenced by the splendid crops which may be seen during summer, in almost every garden throughout the province. The soil requirements of this vegetable are manifested by the appearance of their roots, and even the most casual observer among cultivators will have noticed their strong and penetrating character. It is obvious, therefore, that the ground requires to be dug at least two spits deep and enriched with stable, cow, or fowl manure of a decomposed nature, in order to secure the best returns from this gross-feed-ing vegetable. If the ground has not been prepared for runner beans, and. assuming that only one row is required, proceed as follows: Form a trench, eighteen inches wide, by removing the top soil to a depth of twelve inches. The length must be governed by the space available or the quantity required. Break up the bottom soil well and mix with it a four inch layer of any one of the previously mentioned manures. Return just enough of the top spit so as to leave a shallow trench two or three inches deep, firm this slitrhtly. and rake over evenly. Stretch the garden line alnno- the centre of the trench, and sow the seed in pairs, two inches deep and eight inches apart. If both seeds in each planting germinate, remove the weakest. The remainder of the soil left over from digging the trench can be used as a mulch bv drawing it around the stems of the plants in summer, not. however, before they receive a <rood watering if the weather is dry. If animal manures are not available use superphosphate, finely ground bone dust, or basic slag. Any one of these will he found to make a satisfactory substitute for natural manure and conduce to -a heavy crop of beans. As regards the best method of applying, it should be sprinkled over the surface of the bottom soil at the rate of a good handful to the yard, run of trench, and again after the beans have been sown, applying it in the same ratio as before on each side of the rows. The black ashes from a smother fire is another valuable fertiliser for beans, as they supply the potash which is so necessary. tn the well-being of every kind of vegetable. The ashes may be dusted into the drills before the beans are sown, and another dressing can be applied when the plants are commencing tn flower. Runner beans may be trained in a variety of ways, but perhaps the mosT satisfactory method is to train them on wire netting in a position where the plants receive a full measure of sunshine. Being of perennial duration, the runner bean is often neglected on that account. as growers frequently leave the roots in an undisturbed and unnonrished condition for several years until thev perish from sheer exhaustion. Even with the best of treatment, it is never wise to cron from roots after the second season of bearing. But. after all, the runner bean is much superior in size, tenderness, and flavor, when grown as an annual. BEETROOT. The soil for beetroot requires to be deeply dug, well worked and free from recent manuring. Sow the seed thinly in drills helf an inch deep, and fifteen inches apart. Agricultural salt can be used with advantage for this crop, as the properties it contains are readily assimilated by the beetroot, which is much improved in flavor on that account. The salt should be sprinkled lightly along both sides of the rows immediately after the seed has been sown. CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. Both these vegetables should be planted in furrows, three or four inches deep and two feet apart, allowing the latter distance between the plants. When planted as described, water or liquid manure can be easily administered and protection from high winds is also afforded. When the plants are well advanced in growth give a good soaking of water if the weather is very dry, and draw the surplus soil from the edge of the furrows up around the stems of the plants. CARROTS. Sow carrots for succession when the gjrt sowing is sr«U above grou&d. Xt

not advisable to sow a lot at one time, but at intervals throughout the season in order to secure a constant supply of fresh, tender roots. Sow in fertile, but not recently manured ground, in drills fifteen inches apart and half an inch deep. Wood ashes are a good fertiliser for carrots, and they may be dusted into the drills before sowing, and again over the surface of the rows when the seed has been sown. FLOWER GARDEN. ROSES. The beauty and freshness of the leaf growth of roses render them a conspicuous and pleasing feature of many gardens at the present time. The prolonged and agreeable spells of bright sunshine in late winter and early spring, combined with stimulating showers, have added vigor tc the growth, and where the requirements of the plants have been properly attended to as regards fertilising, pruning and spraying, a harvest of choice blooms should shortly eventuate. It is at this season that the green fly makes its appearance on the tender shoots and leaves of the plants, and unless prompt measures are taken to eradicate the insects immediately their presence is detected, they will multiply by tens of thousands in the course of a few days. Fortunately the pests are easily destroyed, and a variety of simple preparations can be used as sprays to achieve this end. One of these is hot, soapy water of sufficient heat to bear the hand in comfortably Snap suds from the wash tub applied when warm are also effective. McDougall’s insecticide is also a valuable recipe, and yet another is a concoction made from quassia . chips. Some growers keep their roses free from aphis by spraying them with soot-water. This is both an insecticide and a fertiliser, and can be recommended for spraying both roses and carnations that are affected by preen fly. The tips of the plants may be dipped in the fluid when readily accessible. Roses which are affected by fungus should be sprayed with a decoction of sulphate of potassium, melting this in water, the proportion being one ounce of the sulphide to one gallon of water. Young roses that were recently planted and are growing freely should be given liquid manure now. using horse or cow droppings for preference. Where there are only a few plants, the liquor can be made as under: Place about half a garden shovel full of fresh manure in an old but large bucket or kerosene tin. and add a good pint of soot and fill nearly to the top with water. Allow this to stand for twenty-four hours, but stir occasionallv. Then provide another bucket or tin. fix? a piece of scrim, or any similarly porous material. over the top, stir and then strain into it about a gallon of the liquid manure, and fill to the top with water, mixing again in the same proportion as required. The strongest growing of the young roses may be given half a gallon 1 of the liquor, while a quart will suffice for weak growers. The liquid manure i should be macle as described, and api plied at least once every week until the plants have finished flowering. A stronger stimulant may, however, be given to older and well established roses, and it can be prepared as follows: Procure if possible a large-sized barrel and half fill with water. Place three shovelfulls of fresh cow manure, (horse droppine's can be used if the forI mer is not available), and one of fowl i manure \ in a cnarse manure sack or 1 sugar hag and add about two quarts of : soot. Tie the bag and suspend beneath the surface of the wafer contained in the barrel. Before the bag is immersed, a stout and fairlv loner piece of corl should be attached to it. and this can be tied to a strong stick laid across the top of the barrel. Bv this method, the hag can be prevented from sinking to the bottom of the barrel. The process of mixing can he more easilv done by holding the cord and surging the bag up and down In the water. When the manure has been immersed for a counle of davs. withdraw the sack, and fill the barrel nearly to the top with water. To every half bucket or kerosene tin of the liquor add the same quantity of water before applying. If the preparation is made aa described it will be found a safe and effective stimulant for roses. It may be given to each plant liberally once each week until the first flush of flowering is over. A few hours after the liquor has been given, the soil should be lightly forked over around the base of the plants. The best results from liquid manure are obtained by applying it immediately after rain has fallen, or watering has been done. PLANTING VIOLETS. It is not generally known that the proper time to set out new plantations or beds of violets is just after they have finished flowering. When the crowns are set out then they establish themselves at once and soon make good ; growth and will continue to develop right up till the autumn and be strong and fit to commence flowering next winter, and continue till spring. The violet is often described as modest, but such a title cannot be applied to it in rela- ' tion to its desire for food. Few plants are greedier than the violet, and unless i its wants are well supplied, it will sulk | and refuse to grow and generally wear ' a very tired look. On the other hand, !if some trouble is taken in the preparation of the soil, both by deep cultivation and the adding of decayed manure and bonedust, well incorporating these with the Soil before setting out the plants,, a vigorous, strong constitutioned plant will result, and later a mass of first class blooms. During the growing season the plants should be mulched around the base and during dry periods have occasional shower baths. In planting, pick out the strongest crowns, preferably those that are starting off into growth now. Remove all old roots from such crowns. This will allow new rootlets to form quickly, and such young roots will increase the activity of the plants in a very marked degree. If blooms are desired for winter use a bed of violets may be planted out about the size of a garden frame. When early winter arrives a garden frame may be set over the violet bed, and as a result blooms borne on long stems may be expected much sooner than would otherwise be the case.