GARDEN NOTES.

Taranaki Daily News, 2 September 1922, Page 11

GARDEN NOTES.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. (By “Agricola.”) A genial spring day could hardly be more happily or healthfully spent than in the carrying out of the various duties that call for attention in the garden, Probably there are none who enjoy their gardens more thoroughly than those who take an active part in the work entailed, and it is natural that they should be proud of any extra good results obtained from their own handiwork. VEGETABLE CULTURE. The Jerusalem, or ground artichoke, cannot be excelled even, by the potato in nutritive value, and although many people appreciate its wholesome qualities as a vegetable, there are many others who regard it with equal disfavor. A deep, rich loam, deeply dug and well manured in the autumn or early winter, and an open situation are the prime requisites for this vegetable. Use whole or cut sets, each containing about three eyes, for planting and put them in trenches six inches deep and three feet apart, the sets being about one foot apart in the trenches. The Broad Bean. The broad bean is not generally cultivated.. as its somewhat gross qualities render it unpalatable to many. If not already done, a mowing should be made where required at the earliest opportunity, selecting a< long pod variety for the first crop, and following with broad or green Windsor, for successional purposes, sowing at intervals of three weeks. This vegetable thrives best in a strong and previously well manured loam. It must be remembered that thick and shallow sowing prove equally fatal to the crop. Three to four inches is the right depth to cover the seeds, which may be planted five inches apart in the drills, allowing thirty inches between the rows. If the plants are given a good supply of weak liquid manure from time to* time not only will the period of growing and bearing be extended, but it will prove beneficial in preventing the plants from languishing during a dry spell. Pinch out the tops when the plants are blooming freely, and this will cause the pods to mature more rapidly than they otherwise would.

Cabbage and Cauliflower. Cabbage and cauliflower should be planted out as required in -rich soil. The latter vegetable is a very gross feeder; in fact it will thrive in rotted manure alone without the admixture of soil. It is obvious therefore that an abundant dressing of decayed manure is essential to ground intended for cauliflower, if fine large heads are to be secured. Plant cabbage and cauliflower in rows two feet apart each way, and draw the soil about the plants occasionally. Doses of weak liquid manure can be frequently given with great advantage throughout the whole period of growth. Where further quantities are required, small successional sowings should be made, sowing in drills six inches apart and half an inch deep. Carrots. Supplies of young carrots are always appreciated, and are never too early. Make a sowing in well cultivated, rich free soil that had been well manured for a previous crop, such as peas or beans. Never use stable or any animal manure in a frc t 'h state for this crop, as it causes the roots to fork or malform. Sow in drills twelve inches apart and half an inch deep, selecting seed of an early horn variety, and when growing thin out to three inches apart to allow them room to grow freely. Celery. Celery for early supplies should he sown now. but for winter use the middle of September is soon enough to sow. These plants require to be kept growing all the time, as any decided check is more or less fatal ‘to them. The plants may not show the effects immediately, but later on they will send up spikes of flower-buds and a host o-f suckers, and then, when the heads are lifted for use most of the stalks will he found to be hollow and worthless. Sow on light, rich soil in a -sheltered but sunny position. When the plants are forward enough, prick out into a bed containing plenty of rich material such as rotted turf, and leaf mould or thoroughly decomposed stable or cow manure, so that the formation of fibrous roots may be encouraged. Tt is good plan when preparing this bed to first of all take out the soil to a depth of about six inches; level, and place a few boards (old palings will do) on the bottom, filling in with the rich material. This will prevent coarse roots from forming and penetrating into the subsoil. The plants, if kept well watered, will then' lift with a biff ball to the roots, (ind not suffer when finally planted out. For, early use Henderson's White Plume and Golden self blanching are recommended. Lettuce. Lettuce thrives in r : ch. friable soil that contains an abundance of humus. The seed should be sown where the plants are to remain, for unless the weather is showery at the time of transplanting. the young plants take a long time to recover from the set-back received in the operation, and as it is only a crisp lettuce that is good, unretarded growth is necessary to secure crispness. Sow in drills twelve inches apart and half an inch deep, thinning out the resultant growths to nine inches apart. Give the plants occasional dosc.s of liquid manure, preferably nitrate of soda, in order to ensure a quick growth. Sprang Onions. Snrmff Sown Onions.—Thorough preof the ground, careful sowing n nd the best of after culture are escf”it:al for this cron. There are few '•’•ther crops for which a liberal use of ’".■mure is morn needed than in this. Tt should be well fermented and duff into the 'soil -well in advance of sowing the ceed. Choose a fine dav when the soil is friable and commence onerations by treading or passing the roller over the "round to make it firm. Level with the rake and sow the Reed in shallow drills eighteen inches anart and half an inch deep. Cover lightlv with fine soil and finish bv beatinff down the drills lieditlv with the back of the spade. Early thinning is important, and should be continued until the plants stand about s’x inches apart. Frequent weeding and ’hallow hoeing are necessary, but avoid drawing the soil about the bulbs. The fertilising value of soot and black smother-fire ashes for this crop can scarcely be over estimated. Peas. Peas thrive best in open, well-pul-verised soil that has been heavily manured for a previous crop. The use of fresh manure nanae a rank

pods. Sow thinly in drills four or five inches' wide and three inches deep, allowing from two to four feet between the drills, according to the height of the peas. Draw the soij about the base of the young plants as they progress; occasional light dustings of soot or lime will keep the slugs away, but it requires to be carefully done, as too heavy an application is liable to check the leaf growth, to the detriment of the plants. All peas do much better when staked, but if these are not available use wirenetting or else run lengths of cord from end to end of the rows to keep the plants off the ground. THE FLOWER GARDEN. THE ASTER. Among the many annuals grown in gardens the aster deserves the name of “everybody’s flower,” as it possesses so many good qualities, and the veriest amateur, with the exercise of a little care, may be almost assured of success when he attempts its culture. The improved forms of the old China aster are some of the most popular of garden annuals. This aster was introduced to Europe from the East nearly a couple of centur ; es ago, but was only known to botanists. About the time Queen Victoria came to the Throne, and long afterwards, the seed of improved types were only considered genuine when supplied in sealed packets made in Germany. Nowadays, however, it is preferred when packeted by some eminent British seed house. Again, the aster was always looked upon as an end-of-summer flower, exhibiting its best beauty when the early flowering annuals were on the wane. Now we have varieties which are at their best before December is past, to be followed by others lasting almost until winter.

Asters are now divided and subdivided into so many classes that it often puzzles one to make a selection. The following,, however, are fit for the most fastidious establishments: Giant comet and ostrich plume, Victoria, paeony-flowered, chrysanthemum-flower-ed, and the ray and quilled asters. The giant forms of the single aster, with flowing petals, are fine for cutting, as the colorings are so dainty and effective. In colors the aster is equally varied., as they extend from the purest white to yellow, scarlet, fiery red, and blue with the most refined intermediate shades and tints. As to the time of blooming out of doors, this large assortment can very well be divided into three, varying from December to May in favorable season. Early: Empress Frederick, queen of the market, and early ostrich L plume. Mid-seetson: Giant comet, ostrich plume, Victoria and giant single. Late: Chrysanthemum flowered, paeony flowered, autumn queen, and late ostrich plume. GENERAL CULTURE. With regard to culture, the aster is essentially a surface rooting plant, and although a deep tilth is not to be ignored, it is not necessary so long as the soil is fertile. The best medium is a mellow sandy loam not too porous, but it also does well in soils of a heavier description if thoroughly cultivated. In order to ensure a long season the seeds of the early sorts should be sown now either in boxes under glass or in a well sheltered, but sunny position, out of doors. In some soils and localities asters succeed better than in others, in spite of extra attention.

CHRYSANTHEMUM CUTTINGS. The best cuttings are found growing up near the roots of the plants. These may be taken with a sharp knife, cutting them some depth below the surface of the soil, where they come up like suckers. This is best done before the cuttings get too large and if a few roots are found attached to them., so much the better as these will materially assist the cuttings in making a good start. The chysanthemum will do well in ordinary garden soil that has been deeply dug, bub it is advisable to mix some ashes from a rubbish fire with the soil before setting the young plants out. A light sprinkling of bone dust around each cutting after planting will benefit them considerably. Carnations. —To secure the best returns from these bright and fragrant flowers the soil should be deeply cultivated, and a good quantity of rotted cow manure and leaf soil or rotted turf incorporated with it before setting the plants out. Good drainage and an cnen situation are also necessary to secure WORK TO BE DONE. Autumn raised seedlings of flowering plants should now be planted out. as the weather and condition of the soil permit. But the discretion of the grower must be used, however, as the size of the riant rather than dates should govern the work, as some ofi them may hardlv be forward enough, in which case it would be better to wait for a week or two before transplanting. Finish the work of lifting and dividing large established clumps of perennials, such as delplunium-. anuilegia, alatromeria. Michaelmas daisfes, and perennial phlox. Hardy annuals can bo sown now in the open, hiit unless a glass house or frame or a well sheltered and sunny position out of doors can be provided, it ; «s better to defer sowing the seed of tender subjects that are susceptible to cold in a voung state, such as asters, salpifflossis. French and African marigolds and zinnias, for a few weeks yet.