MOUNT EVEREST

Taranaki Daily News, 13 June 1922, Page 5

MOUNT EVEREST

BEADY FOR ASCENT. A PASSAGE FOUND. BIG TASK AHEAD. By Telegraph-—Press Assn.—Copyright. Londoh, June 10. General Bruce reports that considerable progress has been made by the Everest expedition since his last dispatch and the improving weather is heartening everybody. The temperature at night is usually 25 degrees of frost. The weather conditions are curious. It is nearly spring time at Rongbuk, at almost the* highest elevation in the world, yet we have not seen or heard an avalanche. All the great snow-laden and ice-bearing peaks remain stable, yet a few hundred miles westward the conditions art entirely different, resembling European conditions, and the high mountains are almost unapproachable. Thus, although conditions in the eastern Himalayas appear favourable for exploration they really are ik so, owing to difficulties with our coolies, of whom only 45 materialised when wanted. They worked two days, then alleged that their food was exhausted and we were obliged to allow them to descend to fetch more food under guarantee they would return. Instead of returning they made a beeline for home inthe Kharta Valley, 30 miles to the eastward. All set to work to make up the transport shortage. Meanwhile Struff, Morehead, Norton, and Longstaff started to maKe complete reconnaissances for camps at the foot of the north col, which were carried out satisfactorily. Three c.traps have been established. The first was placed above the junction of the east and main Rongbuk valleys at 17,000 feet. Camp No. 2 was established at 19,360 feet eastward of the Rongbuk glacier. We then reconnoitered the line of ad van te across the broken side of the glacier, descended from the peak marked 22.580 on the ridge descending northward from Everest, leaving Longstaff to consolidate camp No. 2. The remainder pushed up the left bank of the east Rongbuk glacier, which presents a scene of wild confusion, being intersected by enormous crevasses. After half a mile we found a trench 100 feet deep and 400 feet wide, rendering progress south-eastward apparently impossible. The party turned south and reached the left bank of the main glacier with an overcast sky, and intense heat. Lassitude attacked most of the party, but we struggled on until we encountered vertical seracs (pinnacles of ice), 300 to 500 feet high, rendering further progress again impossible. Morehead enterprisingly and skilfully found en route hon. .van! a negotiable passage through the trench southward, ensuring a feasable route for the morrow. The party returned to camp No. 2 on the 7th and departed on the morrow.* Taking advantage of Morshead’s discovery we proceeded up the main glacier, with Everest? towering above. Suddenly the view of the north col burst into* sight and simultaneously in the recess northward • a broad morainecovered shelf under the high but safe cliffs of the north peak .of Changtse (24,730 feet). This spot was reached at mid-day ana camp No. 3 established at about 21,000 feet. The party then studied the route to the north col, which should not prove difficult, though a big task. Meanwhile, at the main camp, owing to the desertion of the Thibetan coolies all hands, including the kitchen staff and photographic porters, started for camp No. 3. Apart from influenza, among the porters the health of the party is excellent, and there is every hope of surmounting the extra work thrown on the remainder of the. party. The next task is to fully provision the camp at the north col.