COAL IN TARANAKI.

Taranaki Daily News, 3 June 1922, Page 9

COAL IN TARANAKI.

EARLY REPORTS. what “INSPECTION” MEANT IN THE "SIXTIES.” WANGANUI TO OHUBA, VIA TAUPO,

,<By

“Juvenis.”)

(JI.) On December 20£h we were still detained by heavy rain, whieli penetrated our tent during the night. Topia wished us to go half a mile farther up to his village, so that he might take care of us, but we did not see the advantage of getting wet to the skin in the transit. On the 2~th the rain ceased, and after getting our pig cut up and salted, we made a start at 10.30 a.m. the river being very dirty. We passed the Paparoa rapid, a bad one. Topia landed at his village, Ohinemutu, to get a pole. Here, as showing what the production of the district should be, we got some very fine ripe lemons from a tree formerly planted by the Rev. Mr. Kirk, a Wesleyan missionary. We passed many waterfalls, caused by streams falling into the river on both sides. The river maintained a constant character all the way; cliffs bounding the stream, rapids and long reaches alternating; with frequent villages on the top of the banks, but generally hidden from view and only accessible from the river by means of ladders. We landed at the Huraroto waterfall and caves on the right bank. The caves are in sandstone associated with a gravel and shell conglomerate, in which we found ostrea, pectem, etc. The bottom of the eave was covered with driftwood, and a stream ran through it. Above Mangaio is a long reach, and I observed the flood marks fourteen or fifteen feet up the cliff; at the head of it, we came to a strong rapid —Ngaporo. Half-way up the rapids is a harbor where we found a party of Maoris eating pitau or treefern, where we stopped to feed. The poling up these rapids is arduous work, and is performed close to the bank, which is frequently used as a point d’appui. When the head of an eddy is reached, the canoe is frequently shoved over through the current to the opposite bank. The Maoris we met here informed us that we would not be allowed to ascend, the Tangarakau, as it was part of the land handed over to the king, and that, as we were still at war with him, his permission at all events would be required. In the midst of the Ngaporo rapid we landed and walked along the shingle, while the canofc* was poled up with difficulty, for she was driven back at one point and had to try again. Along the reach which succeeded the rapid I observed a stratum four feet thick containing ostrea, pecten, etc. We passed the entrance of the Maunganuitaeo, a large tributary falling into the left bank of the Whanganui through vertical cliffs, a very striking scene. From this point a road leads to Taupo, proceeding first a short way up the tributary, th**n through the bush a journey of two days to the interior plains, and one journey’s beyond.

From the head of (the Ngaporo rapid, a reach extends for many miles between cliffs of about one hundred and fifty feet high, beautifully festooned with vegetation. The tree-ferns here were remarkably fine' and we had some sport shooting pigeons and ducks. After we passed several waterfalls, we landed on the beach at e Okiriau, a village on the left bank, where we pitched our tent before dark. After dinner, Watkins requested the loan of a tomahawk to defend himself on going up to the pa on the hill above. He said he knew there was a taipo (devil) about; he felt it in his head. During the night, a steer made an ineffectual attempt to upset our tent . On the morning of December 28th, we reached' Utapu, one mile further up the stream on the right bank.

Having now arrived at the residence of the owners of Tangarakau, of course the natives commenced to sit in solemn conclave. After a long discussion it was decided, on the motion of one Hoani, that as we had come so far we should be allowed to proceed as far as the mouth of the Tangarakau on the following Monday, to return the same day, but on no account could we be permitted to ascend that tributary. As there was no help for it, we were obliged to accept this decision. We had quite a levee at our tent during the day, consisting chiefly of women and children, who stood staring at us. The heat was excessive, and the sandflies intolerable. The cultivations here are extensive, but the wheat looked inferior. Flax (phormium tenax) is here planted in. rows, dividing garden from garden. Sunday, December 29, was very warm. I walked up the hill behind the village to have a view of Tongariro. I saw Ruapehu only on which there ■was a .goed deal of snow; nothing else being in view except the densely wooded summits and sides of the broken country. One ridge overlooking the river showed clearly the outlines of an extensive pa, which must have been long abandoned, as a dense forest covered its surface and scarps. Much tobacco is grown at Utapu. On my return, I found the thermometer 98 degrees in the tent and retired to the shade of a beautiful karaka grove, where a pleasant breeze cooled the air. In the evening we heard rumors that an important despatch had arrived from Pehi concerning our movements, and that a Runanga was sitting to consider its contents. Deighton went to find out what was up, and soon returned with the information that Pehi had given orders that we should be turned back; but the meeting said his orders were of no consequence. The Maoris had, however, discovered that there was a royal taiepa., or toll-bar, at Utapu. and that to proceed farther up the river, we must pay' a to'll of thirty shillings to the king. As no particular object was to be gained in going only to the. mouth of the Tangarakau river, I was firm in resisting this demand, and as the natives were firm on their side, the result was, that it was decided we should return. I grudged; the bottle of porter which we had given to Pehi. On Monday, December 30, finding the natives still obdurate, we embarked in the canoe for our return to Whanganui, taking as passengers our Waikato natives. We learned that the chief opponent to our ascent of the Tangarakau was one Hori te Hai, a person of small importance —of whom more anon. The day was rainy, otherwise the descent of the river would have been as pleasant as it was rapid. We stopped at Ohinemutu, just above Pipiriki, to dinner. Here we visited the lemon tree and obtained some fine lemons. We observed also a very large almond tree.

not in fruit. A large waata, or storehouse, was shown to us filled with very handsome mats and numerous Huis’ skins, belonging to Pehi. I inspected the cooking operations which were conducted as follows. A hole in the ground was filled with large round stones, and a fire was made on the top of these ■which, when they were well heated, was swept off. Water was then sprinkled on the stones, and old flax baskets ! placed upon them, then the potatoes lor other food, then more flax baskets, i then earth. In this oven the food re- ’ mained for at least twenty minutes. ; I can strongly recommend this mode of cookery. I was shown a pigeon ; spear mpde of tawa, some thirty or 1 forty feet long. The sportsman creeps ; carefully under a pigeon and spears 1 him when seated on a branch. The two women who cooked, employed themselves while the potatoes were in ' the oven, in plaiting flax baskets for holding them, which work they per- • formed with extreme rapidity. After a long detention, we proceed to Pipiriki, where 1 started for the top of the hill, but was called back, as Topua was anixous to get as far as Karatia to entertain his Waikato friends. Two of those who went on with us to Whanganui were supposed to be political emissaries from Waikato. One had been wounded in the arm, and it was probable that the ball was still unextracted. Dr. Tuke probed the wound and jidvised the man to go to the hospital at Whanganui. He was a fine powerful fellow and bore the probing without wincing in the least. The other man was wounded in the thigh. They had both been in the Taranaki war. The name of the man wounded in the arm was Te Wetine.

We camped at Karatia. Here there was a grand korero, at which Henare described our expedition and the difficulties at Utapu. The concert of bellbirds here and elsewhere on the river surpassed anything of the kind which I have ever heard previously. In the early morning 1 heard a great crashing noise, and on looking from the tent found the Maoris engaged in the destruction of a superb grove of karaka trees. The reason for the procedure I was this: It appeared that a prophet ’ had lately arisen who had -found out i the reason of the defeat of the Maori ! arms, and the course to be pursued to i ensure success in war. He stated that I lizards were the root of all evil, that ; they had been allowed to increase to ;an alarming-extent, and must be de- : stroyed. If this were done in proper fashion, the Maori would be triumphant and would vanquish the pakeha. The prophet indicated where the lizards were to be found and the grove of karaka trees in question was one of their hiding places. The grove thereI fore must be cut down and the lizards caught. These animals were then to be roasted, pounded, and eaten in a prescribed form. These Maori prophets are great nuisances, they are generally the precursors of wars and tumults. - v On Tuesday, December 31, we came upon a considerable population sitting breakfasting in groups, unwashed. I observed some of the females collecting stinking corn out of holes on the left bank used as storehouses. As we departed a great row broke out; it seemed as if everyone were speaking •at once; it was about a case of adultery—one of those subjects which a Maori community seems to take particular pleasure in investigating. The rapid stream soon took us out of reach of the noise. We met two Roman Catholic priests going upstream, attired in shovel hats and the dress of their order, which it always struck me, must be most unbearable in warm climates.

At Atini we passed several canoes bound for Putiki. We stopped at Te Rimurimu to dinner: here the Maoris eat a dish of tutu thickened with seeweed and with kumera immersed in it.

We had a long and exciting race with a large canoe with a crew as follows: In the bow was a girl, next a young man, then a stout, middle-aged man, then a fat good-looking woman, an elderly woman, a girl, a man -with a red shirt, and a child behind him, a dwarf, a good-looking girl, an old woman, a boy, two children, a young woman, and a highly-tattooed old gentleman steering.

At all the villages, until we reached Utapu, we obtained milk, indicating that the Maoris possess cows. As it is impossible to drive these animals up from the coast, their legs are tied and they are conveyed in canoes. The breed is, I fear, likely to deteriorate, as the bulls we saw were very inferior. As we emerged into the open country, we encountered a strong breeze from the south-west, which delayed our progress. Topia landed with his Waikato friends at Waipakarau, and we reached the township of Whanganui at 8 p.m. TO LAKE TAUPO AND BACK. As I was unwilling to be defeated in my attempts to explore the upper Whanganui, I resolved, after consulting with Mr. Deighton and others, to turn the flank of the position and get in the rear of the obstructionists. Having, therefore, made the necessary preparations, I mounted my horse and started for the Rangitikei river on January 8. The steamer “Wonga Wonga’’ coming up the river from Taranaki at the same time with a wing of the 'Gsth Regiment. I called upon the Rev. Mr. Taylor at Putiki. He told me that the dip of the coal at Tangarakau was slight and that he considered that the coal-field extended across the strait from Mokau to Massacre Bay. In riding to the westward, the farms appeared to be rather burnt up, and much remained to be done to bring the pasture-land into a proper state of cultivation. At Cameron’s Inn at Turakina I met the Bishop of Wellington, looking tired and sunburnt. He had lost his horse at the Rangitikei and was forced to continue his journey, mounted first upon a large cart horse and next a pony. The name of Cameron is legion in the district, and the Christian names of Sandy and Donald abound; while Gaelic is heard on all sides. At 6 p.m. I reached Koreromaiwaho, the residence of Mr. Jordan, and heard great complaints of the drunkenness of both Maori 'and Pakeha at the races held there lately. On January 9 I proceeded with Mr. Deighton to obtain a canoe in which to ascend the Rangitikei river. We called at Hammond’s and fell in with one Mahia, who took us to the pa Onepuehu, on the opposite side of the river. Here we engaged a canoe with a crew of four men to start on the 13th and take us to Patea. In the evening, we returned to Jordan’s. Mr. Gibbs Jordan complained that however well the Maoris were 'treated and fed, they would give no assistance unless paid exorbitantly, and were always ready to desert at a pinch, or to stand out then for a rise of wages. The Rangitikei land is not equal to that of the Whanganui. It is cold and wet, and will involve a large outlay in draining and working before it can be brought into good order, although, when well treated, it will eventua’’’' do well.

. (To be continued.)