AMIDST SUNNY ISLES.

Taranaki Daily News, 18 March 1922, Page 10

AMIDST SUNNY ISLES.

A HOLIDAY CRUISE. IN THE HAURAKI GULF. A party of five gentlemen, consisting of Messrs. J. Austin, D. Denny-Brown, M. Aiken, A. Cassie and Rev. O. Blundell, recently enjoyed, a most successful launch cruise in the Hauraki Gulf, through the kindness of Mr. D. M. Darroch, who is a well-known yachtsman in Auckland. The party had perfect weather throughout the trip, which comprised some 450 miles of water travel, and included, visits to about 40 places of interest. Mr. BlundelJ supplies the following particulars of the cruise:— The powerful and roomy launch, quaintly named by her' genial owner the Ro-No-Mor, cleared her moorings in Stanley Bay, Auckland, at dawn on February 9, passed/th rough the Rangitoto channel, and headed, for the Whangaparau passage between. Tiri Tiri island and the mainland. After passing the island the course was set for Canoe Rock, a lovely sentinel three miles from the coast of Kawau Island. Here fishing for “yellow tail” was indulged in and excellent sport obtained. Later in the day a visit was paid to South-East Bay. Kawau, where a bathe in the clear, limpid water, and a rest under the magnificent puriri and pohutakawa trees on shore, were greatly enjoyed. As evening drew on the launch cruised along the island coast, past, lovely bays, islets and cliffs, and finally dropped anchor in Mansion House Bay. once the beautiful home of the late Sir George Grey, and now a popular resort of Auckland yachtsmen. Here, in placid waters, surrounded by pine-clad heights, and with the clear, starry sky above, the party spent a peaceful night. EXPLORING KAWAU ISLAND. foisting anchor at an early hour nex| morning, a course was steered to the northern side of the island, and a landing there effected for the purpose of exploring a pretty bay. Kawau Island is overrun by wallabies and other imported marsupials, and some of these quaint creatures were observed springing for cover as the visitors approached. Some time was employed in successful fishing close to Fairchild Reef, abundance of schnapper and other fish being caught, including a large and curious hammerheaded shark.

Passing the jagged, storm-battered rocks of Takatu headland, with its remarkable formation known as Elephant Rock, a run was made for Big Omaha Harbor, on the mainland. This was reached early in the afternoon, and proved to be an extensive, land-locked estuary once the scene of active shipbuilding operations in yards owned, by Mr. Darroch. In those days abundance of kauri trees grew on the hills around, but these have long since disappeared, and there appears little save some indifferent farming and orcharding that is being done to make use of the soil. The sparse danthonia grasses, which grow upon the hills, seem a poor exchange for the grand forests now swept away by axe and fire. Most generous hospitality was here extended to the members of the party by Mr. and Mrs. W. Darroch, who now occupy the old home of the Ro-No-Mor’s genial skipper. The brilliant white sand, which forms extensive beaches at Big Omaha, looked very striking to the voyagers, accustomed to the coasts of Taranaki. Before nightfall, a short run of four miles along the northerir ?oast line by Ti Point, a volcanic formation, brought the party to Leigh Cove, or Little Omaha, a curious rocky inlet above which the village of Leigh nestles in quiet seclusion. Lying here in comfort until morning, an early start was made for the groirp of ‘ islands to the north, which Captain Cook named, the Hen Chickens. Cape Rodney was soon cleared, and with a fine leading wind, blue skies above, and bluer sea below, a splendid run was made. The bays and headlands of the mainland, with bush-clad ranges as a background, made a lovely picture, while every island and the great expanse of the gulf glowed in the sunlight- Shoals of porpoises gambolled alongside, guile, terns and petrels hovered near, and occasionally a brilliant flying-fish sprang from the water, sped it? rapid, brief flight, and plunged out of sight again. A scow in full bore down most gallantly, hailed most courteously, and passed. Trawlers, busy catching fish for. the Auckland market, cruised up and down, and right ahead rose ever higher the striking island formation known as Sail Rock. As the launch drew nearer to this object, the voyagers became increasingly aware of its impressive height and picturesque appearance. For close upon 500 feet its two broad, sail-like pillars rise sheer out of water which reveals its depth by its dark blue color. High on its flanks clumps of emerald green show out, and its upper portions appear to overhang. On one side a dark cavern penetrates far into the rock, and clouds of screaming sea-birds wing their flight around and above it. The launch circled the great rock several times with trailing lines astern, for at this place the sea teems with fish. Hungry, silvery shoals appeared on every side, and a busy and hilarious half-hour was spent in hauling the members of the finny tribe on board.

AN ISLAND SANCTUARY. Three miles further north lay a long, mountainous and bush-clad island, looking very charming amidst the surroundin a blue waters. This was Taranga, or Hen Island, and towards it the launch was headed. As this island is a sanctuary for native birds, and possesses a very interesting flora, it had been determined to spend some time in visiting it. Landing is difficult, and can only be accomplished in calm weather. The sea bein'* sufficiently smooth on the northern coast ,tlie anchor was dropped there, close in shore, in about twelve fathoms,, and one of the party landed on the rocks. A way was soon discovered whereby the low cliff above the rocky beach could be scaled, and the dense bush was entered at that point. The slope of the island is exceedingly steep, pnd onlv for the assistance afforded by the clinbing vegetation, would be almost impossible to ascend. . Evidences of the native bird hie at once became noticeable. The whole forest seemed to be ringing with the notes of tuis and bell-birds, while the call of the shining cuckoo, the chatter of parakeets and the harsh cries of the kaka were continually heard. Among the multitudinous sounds there came some loud, musical notes new to the observer. These were listened to with special interest, as it had been reported that the once numerous but now rare saddl e-has* still finds a refuge upon Taranga Island, and it was hoped that this unfamiliar call proceeded from these beautiful birds This hope was justified, for it was not long before a pair of the songappeared in full view and were at nnce recognised as saddle-backs. It is mnfit ifif-ft c tQry to learn, that t-hrs se-

cies not only exists but is even numerous upon the island. During the first climb to the top of Taranga at least a dozen individuals were seen, and their loud and varied notes were heard in all directions. .

Upon this, and during a later exploration of the island, twelve species of native land birds were seen. The saddleback is rather less in size than the tui. It lias a strong, somewhat curved beak, and carries small yellow wattles at either side of the head. The head, breast and under-side are black, the tail is somewhat abbreviated and scanty, the wings and back are reddish brown, this color forming the “saddle” which gives the bird its name.

The vegetation on the island is abundant and fairly varied, but, generally speaking, the bush is more open than is that upon the Little Barrier and some other islands. Huge puriris and pohutukawas abound, but there appears to be no kauri nor any of the larger native forest trees. Wonderfully fine specimens of me'licope ternata are to be seen, and the cousin of the tawa, known as tariere, and the kohe kohe, are abundant. Of special interest is the rare tree (naturally) which is now commonly planted in our gardens and named “myreta ainclarii,” or puka. Here on Taranga Island it finds one of its few natural habitats, and its broad, shining leaves form a striking picture among the other native foliage. WHANGAREI HARBOR. During the afternoon of the landing on Taranga a course was set for Whangarei heads, and in du,e time the conspicuous rock pinnacles of Mount Manaia were passed, and the run continued up the expansivfc estuary into the Whangarei River. Here the voyagers were interested to see the mangrove trees which grow on the tidal flats, being partly submerged in salt water at every full tide. A line of railway runs from Ohiwa, on the estuary, up to Whangarei, and where it crosses the river a “jack-knife” bridge enables launches to pass through. On. the full bosdm of the tide the traveller passes between the opened span, and at length, after some miles of waterway between mangrovecovered banks, the launch was moored at a substantial concrete wharf close to the thriving town of Whangarei. This place, which forms the principal centre of the North Auckland region, has a population of about 5000. Vast limestone deposits in the vicinity have, caused the establishment of considerable industrial activity, as has also the coal, which is mined at Kamo and Hikurangi, some miles inland. Near the heads is a large freezing works, which, however, appeared to have closed down during the party’s visit. After a pleasant day spent in visiting some of the numerous bays within the Whangarei estuary, a second visit was paid to the Hen and Chickens group, and a more thorough exploration of Taranga Island was made. Then came, a final cruise round the formidable and fascinating Sail Rock, and a long run to Leigh Cove for the night. THE LITTLE BARRIER. Next day the launch was headed towards the rugged, bush-clad peaks of Hauturu, or Little Barrier Island, the loveliest, wildest and highest of all the Hauraki islands. For over 200Q' feet it rears its green summit above the waters of the gulf, and its profound and remarkable gorges and- towering cliffs leave an impression upon the visitor’s mind never to be forgotten. Having crossed the fourteen miles of water lying between Leigh and the island the launch ran close under the tall western cliffs, and passed along the coast north about. Vast walls of conglomerate rock tower for eight hundred feet sheer from the narrow boulder beach, and the fringe of pohutukawa trees which crown their crests seems foreshortened to tiny bushes. Dark and exceedingly narrow fissures gash the cliffs at intervals, and widen out further inland into bush-clad gorges reaching far back into the interior of the island. Tall peaks, clothed with forest to their very summits, soai* far aloft, and the bell-like notes which fill the air poclaim this lovely island to be the wild, free, impenetrable sanctuary of multitudes of our native birds. Much of the forest contains kauri trees of the largest kind, but no destroying agent of commerce must ever be suffered to infringe the rights of the feathered hosts, which find a last refuge among the aisles of those noble forests. On the northern side of Hauturu stands Statue Rock, a remarkable formation like a colossal seated figure in stone. The curator of the island, Mr, H. Nelson, has now resided there with his wife and child for eleven years. One of the party paid a visit to his lovely homestead, and was made welcome. A monthly visit from the main land by '■ the mail man forms the only link with i society for these lonely people. WARKWORTH. The two following days were spent in visiting the town of Wark worth on the beautiful Mahurangi river. While there, a member of the party visited “The Grange,” famous for its orange groves, and the charming home of Mr. and Mrs. W. Hamilton. There he was most hospitably entertained, and returned to the launch loaded with choicest fruit for the good of the company. An afternoon was then spent at Waiwera, a popular holiday resort near the mouth of the Mahurangi, and several of the islands were visited off that part of the coast. After a second night spent in one of the lovely bays at Kawau, an early start was made for the eastern side of the Hauraki Gulf. A run of several hours duration, upon a glassy sea and in brightest weather, brought the voyagers among the numerous islands which lie off the Coromandel coast. Atg the Shag Rocks, which are situated at the northern extremity of the archipelago, the anchor was dropped for a time, and fish in great abundance were rapidly secured. 1 COROMANDEL. Coromandel harbor was then entered by its northern passage, and in due course a visit was paid to the town, i Like so many places where gold has been discovered, Coromandel has lost its early glory. Empty buildings and shops with boarded-'up windows give it a deserted air. There appears, however, to be a sturdy farming community in the surrounding districts, and with its . harbor the town will probably regain in time a great deal of its prosperity, i The southern end of the harbor is really very fine, having a deep entrance passage and many beautiful bays. The many, islands and. rocks in the neighboring gulf make navigation difficult, . and great care had to be exercised in steering the launch clear of hidden dangers. Under the skipper’s able direction, • however, no disaster was encountered, and after a very pleasant cruise past a large number of beautiful places Gannet Island was reached, and the i anchor dropped in a deep bay close to < the rocks. The island is rugged and : bush-clad, and contains seven separate

gannet rookeries situated on high cliffs. By dint of climbing up through the bush to the top of the island, it became possible to visit two or three of these nesting places, and most interesting views were obtained of the hundreds of young and adult birds which make this island their home. Being somewhat late in the season, most of the young were fully fledged, and made desperate but unavailing efforts to use their wing®. Some, however, were still clothed in flufly white down and, presented a ver} quaint appearance. To the lasting disgrace of certain visitors to this island, numbers of these helpless and interesting birds are wantonly destroyed each year, and the Government has been approached with a view to securing protection for them. Photographs of the rookeries and their busy tenants were secured and then a departure was made for Waiheke Island. From thence, after two nights spent in quiet bays, the last being at the holiday resort of Ostend, a final run was made for Auckland, where this most interesting and memorable cruise ended.