ATTACK ON EVEREST.

Taranaki Daily News, 11 March 1922, Page 11

ATTACK ON EVEREST.

SUMMIT AS THE GOAL. THE COMING EXPEDITION. HIGH HOPES OF SUCCESS. London, Jan. 12. Mr. George L. Mallory, who led last year’s expedition to Mount Everest and who was a master at Charterhouse, is ■giving a series of illustrated lectures in London and the provinces in aid of the funds for the expedition soon to set out under Brigadier-General the Hon. C. G. Bruce. On the whole, he seems hopeful that the great climb to the top of the earth may be achieved this year. It is explained by Mr. Mallory that the object of the expedition was not only to surmount Everest, but to map and survey the unknown lands to the north and west of it. That possibility was due to the kindly permission of the Tibetans. He illustrated the work of the climbers by some suggestive wordpictures and by pictures of a more graphic kind thrown on the screen. The photographs showed Mount Everest exactly as smaller photographs have shown it—not as a sugar-loaf peak, but as a mighty heaving head and shoulder above the long body of a resting lion. “Pile the Matterhorn on the top of Mount Everest,” said Mr. Mallory, “and it would not disturb it. Everest has no spire, no spikes, or towers. It is majestic, massive, impressive.” THE BEAUTIES OF SIKKIM. Describing the difficulties which confronted the party in the choice of a route, he pointed out that politically Nepal was not possible, as travellers were still not allowed to cross its borders. Therefore, they had to pass through countries or native States belonging to British. India. As a consequence they Had to go through Sikkim. Enlarging on ’the beauties of Sikkim, he drew a wonderful picture of the tropical and sub-tropical vegetation, bird and insect life found there and great butterflies fluttering about like dead leaves in the wind—only they were not dead—butterflies as big as one’s head; mosses and luxuriant verdure, flowers of rich and glowing colors, and whole meadows covered with deep purple primulas.” It was in striking contrast to the later journeyings. The route was then taken from Kampa Dzong across the plains and qlong the flat, swampy valley of the Yaru, with the snow chain of the Himalayas to the south.

“SUPREME AMONG MONSTERS.” Describing his first view of Everest, Mr. Mallory said he was often asked, “Does it look as big as it ought to?” “In my experience,” he added, “mountains do not much care how they look. It depends upon atmospheric conditions, and so on, how they look to the observer, but I think there is no doubt that Everest does appear a great mountain. It is a great mass rising out of the range without a rival, and two other giants rising 24,000 ft. and 25,000 ft. are not noticed against Everest. It rises supreme even among such monsters. “Have we yet seen a way to the top of the mountain?” asked Mr. Mallory. “Well, we think we have. We have eliminated the whole of the western side, including the western peak. But we hope to get to the north-eastern peak. From that arete the mountain is set back at a considerable angle. To the experienced eye it seems possible to get up on that side. That is a hopeful sign. All tliat side is a limb of the mighty mountain.” One of the worst objects to be contended, with was quite near the summit, where there was a very steep snow slope. DIFFICULTIES TO BE FACED. From a mountaineering point of view, he thought it might be said that there were probably no difficulties that would deter a strong party if the difficulties were met with in the Alps, but it was far different when they were met with in the Himalayas. The weather had to be taken very much into account, but in that matter this year's party would be undoubtedly better off than was the case last year. The great aim would be to start early and get the work done before the monsoon set in, and he had little doubt that if that were possible better conditions would be met with. Then there was the question of health and the ability of a man to carry loads above a certain elevation, and in that matter he did not think that any observations they made last year proved that it was impossible for them to do so above 24,000 ft. By a system of relays it might be possible to establish a high forward camp at 26,00 ft., which was essential if the mountain was to be climbed. He had sanguine hopes that as a result of their labors a way to the top of Everest had been discovered.

Brigadier-General Bruce explained that it was entirely on the reconnaissance work of last year that their hopes of this year’s work, were based. After what had been dorie and discovered, the conquest of Everest did not seem to present insuperable difficulties. Members of the coming expedition include Dr. Somervell, Colonel Strutt, Captain Norton, and Captain G. J. Finch.