A CHRISTMAS JOURNEY.

Taranaki Daily News, 18 December 1920, Page 2 (Supplement)

A CHRISTMAS JOURNEY.

IN THE OLD DAYS. FROM NEW PLYMOUTH TO THE HOT LAKES. One of the most interesting Christmas trips ever taken by a Tarauaki party was that made in 1858 by five New Plymouth youths. They started on January 4 from New Plymouth, via Mokau, thence to the Waimarino, on to Taupo and Rotomahana, returning home on March 3, after many vicissitudes, via Wanganui, having walked 500 miles, canoed 46, and ridden on horseback 00. It was really a wonderful journey, and showed the material of which the party were made, for, be it remembered, the country in those days was almost a terra incognita, being covered with thick and almost impenetrable bush, and with the Maoris disaffected to boot.

The party consisted of F. Murray, whose father was Lieut.-Colonel Murray, commanding the troops in New Plymouth; J. M'Kellar (who is still with us); A. Standish (who died in 1916), Wm. Hursthouse (Chief Engineer of Roads, who died at Lower Hutt in 1911), and Mr. Percy-Smith, F.R.G.S. (late Surveyor-General, who is still an honored resident of New Plymouth, and doing very valuable work in investigating and recording matters relating to the Polynesian race).

The account of the journey was published in several numbers of the Taranaki News in ISSB, and makes interesting reading at this time. They left town at 8 a.m., Avalked to Waitara, were ferried over the river there (none of the party had crossed the .river before), and then trudged through fine undulating country, covered with old pas, to the Taniwa stream, which was the former boundary of the settlement. There were some patches of wheat and potatoes hereabouts, and later they came to the Onaero, a pretty river in those days, and then to the Ureaui, where the Maoris wanted 2s Od each to canoe them over, but the party preferred to walk up stream, and then another lot of Maoris offered t.) take them over for 3s the lot, which offer was accepted. Next morning they fonnd from the mail-man that they could have wndtd ever the river*

[ UP THE MOKAU RIVER, The.party crossed the Mimi river, and observed several pas isolated from the main land, of formidable strength. They passed Wai-iti, and then "an old pa called Pukearuhe," and ascended a steep hill, where they had to stop for some time uutil the tide went down. They were under the White Cliffs (Parinini), which towered above for 200 feet. Along the top of the cliff they continued. Ascending and descending the cliffs, they eventually reached Tongaporutu, where they found a pa and entered a whare for the night. Next morning, refreshed by sleep, they crossed the Mohakatino, and when at Tarakihi caught their first glimpse of the Mokau river, where they were taken over in a canoe, and met the missionary, Mr, Schnackenburg, who received them hospitably. Next morning they proceeded to Awakino, shot some birds, and returned to the Mokau. The Maoris wanted £BO "to let us go to Taupo, but afterwards came down to £13." Later the party made a deal with two natives to take them to Taupo and back for £lO. They canoed it up the Mokau river, the hush on the sides of which was wonderfully picturesque, and saw coal seams abutting on the river's edge. Three days were spent on the river, and then the party left the Mokau and struck across to Taupo, traversing some interesting country and coming across in a beautiful valley house in which lived a white man named Tommy, who had deserted from the 58th Regiment, and who was hired by the Maoris to look after cattle.

BUSH ROBINSON CRUSOES. From a very high hill they got a fine view of Mt. Egmont, Tongariro and Ruapehu. Then the going was hard. "Wo had to wade through swamps and wet ferns. It began to rain. What with the swamps and the rain, we were

now thoroughly soaked. .... We soon after struck a path running at right angles to our course, which our guide took. Then up to some clearings and houses. Here we found two women and three children, who seemed considerably nstonished at seeing us. They soon came round when we assured them that, though very hungry, we were not going to make a meal of them. They set to work and prepared us a good meal of pork and potatoes. They made us comfortable for the night. We learned that the husbands of the two women had left their tribe some years before, probably tired of the conventionalities of Maori life, and retired to the bush with their wives and families. The men had subsequently died, and the women then lived by themselves. They were regular'bush'Robinson Crusoe?,. The children had not seen white people before." The party next day crossed a range of mountains called Arawatu. There was a good track, and the party struck the Ohura river, near by which they slept the night, and next day erassed the Ongaruhe river. Groups of Maoris were niet with on route, and the weather at times was vile. They entered a deserted house and made a fire, while one of the party obtained 'some fern root, which was cooked, and tasted something like tough new bread. "We passed through some bush, and then to our great joy we got our first view of the great Lake Taupo, looking like the sea in the distance. We gave a great cheer. We came to the celebrated pa of To Heuheu, and entering the pa saw some natives, who did not seem to be the least, surprised at our appearance. They seemed to hold white people very cheaply. They told us Te Heuheu was at church, but would soon be out. We went to the chief's house, and Te Heuheu later arrived and shook hands all round, whence we had come, etc."

A TRYING ENTERPRISE. Next morning they heard a great row outside, and on investigating found that it was caused by Te Houlieu, who was administering a little "suppiejack sauce" to his women for their tardiness in getting out of bed. Wonder what your young lady of to-day, who stays in bed till the last minute, would think if she were given this treatment! The party then proceeded to Rotomahana, crossing streams and rivers, and meeting with all kinds of experiences. The thermal features were a source of great interest and wonder. Here they met the Rev. Spencer, who was in charge of the Maori mission, and who hospitably entertained the party. From the top of a hill, they were able to see Rotorua Lake. The terraces at Wakatarata were particularly fine, and the bathing near by was delightful. The party returned to Te Heuheu's village, and thence struck out for home, not, however, via the Mokau, but towards, the coast between Rangitikol and Wanganui, which they eventually reached after many trying experiences. The party stayed with friends on the Wanganui river, some with Captain Good and others with Captain Wymess. The first day they travelled by bush track as far as Kai-iwi, and then followed the Maori track up the coast, sleeping in Maori whares at night. The Maori population was fairly numerous. From Waitotara to Omata there was a fortified pa every few miles, and each would contain from 100 to 200 people, whose attitude towards tho pakehas just then was not very friendly. The party reached home safely after their 600mile trek. To-day a 606-mile motor trip, with all its comfort, would be considered an arduous one, and as for a 606-mile walk—who amongst the. younger generation would be willing to take part in such an enterprise?