ENGLAND TO INCA LAND.

Taranaki Daily News, 3 August 1920, Page 9

ENGLAND TO INCA LAND.

INTERESTING OBSERVATION^. The following, from Mr. H. Sten Hurle, son* of Mr. and Mrs. Herbert Hnrle, of New Plymouth, will be read with interest:— I left London by the L.N.W.B. at 8.15 on the morning of Wednesday, 7th January, 1920, stopping only at Rugby and Crewe. Wo were in Liverpool by 4 p.m. and the ship sailed at 5.25. The Mexico js a twin-screw steamer of 5500 tons burden, commanded by Captain James Watson, and owned by the Pacific Steam Navigation Co. She is capanic of f-teaming not more than ten knots per hour, so that the voyage, from the point of view of time, proved rather a tedious one.

We made a good run down the Irish Channel, and on Thursday morning were in sight of the "lihnerald Isle," though it was but a dim blur on the horizon. The day was spent in the usual settling dOwn.ih the cabins that were to be our homes for some five weeks or so, and in making acquaintance with fellow passengers.

There were on board 13." passengers together with a crew of 139. Although first-class passengers were carried the accommodation was equal, to the second on a good liner, with the exception of all cabins being on the promenade deck. I found myself placed at the eaptoin's table between the Hon. C. Roper Curzon, who had left the navy to take up a commercial appointment with Messrs. Williamson and Balfour; of Valparaiso, and an elderly' genileniiiii who had spent 28 years in Chile, and was consequently most interesting with his stories of early days on the coast. ANGER OF TI-IK SEA.

On Thursday the sea was rather choppy; Friday was worse, and on Saturday we were in the midst of a real stcrm. The Mexico was built for the West Coast run, and was never meant for Irans-Atlantic voyages, consequently whVm we ran into this storm the heaviest known in the Atlantic for quite si number of years, the night that the Afriquc was wrecked in the Bay of Biscay, you can readily imagine that we were none -too happy on hoard the little Mexico. She pitched and tossed and rolled until it seemed she must turn over. The waves rose all round, seemingly higher than the masts. The ship was unable to answer to her helm, and for almost a day we drifted helplessly in mid-ocean. Jl was found impossible to hold (he usual Sunday service, the captain not being able to leave the bridge to oiliciate thereat, the noisr- of the gale being too great, and the great majority of the passengers not'being in a fit state to attend; Those who were able to brave the dining' saloon put more food on the floor than they did down their throats. During the night a huge wave carried away a large portion of the captain's bridge, and another treated one of onr starboard boats as though ft were an egg shell. On Monday morning the storm abated somewhat, though very little. The engines were re-started, and the vessel was able to make a little headway again&t the still raging wind. All day Monday and Tuesday she struggled bravely against. tljevTlements, Tittle'more than holding her own, and picking up more of the lost ground. We were considerably off our course, but goodness only knows exactly how far for the sun had not been visible since the previous Thursday. However, Wednesday brought a calm sea. We were, still 70ft miles from the Azores, and much too far west, but were were still afloat! From then on we had a very smooth voyage. PORTO RICO.

On Friday, the Kith, the islands known as the Azores were passed. The group, which belongs to the Republic of Portugal, and hns a population of 210.000, consists of about a dozen islands, including rocks and islets. The island of St. Miguel is the chief one, but Terceira, which we passed quite closely, contains the capital, Angra. There is the residence of the Governor-General, a spacious well-built palaro, nestling on the side of a hill among the gentle green slopes and feathery palms. The islands are the* tops of a long ridge of volcanoes. Pico, 7000 feet, is the-highest, and can, in/clear weather, be seen for 75 miles. England imports annually from the group some million and a-half of pineapples, and a great quantity of oranges. After passing the Azores we were rather pleased to hear the captain state that we would have to call at Porto Rico for coal. We had not been expecting to call anywhere before Colon. On Monday, the 10th, we started a programme of sports, which lasted until the 29th. I was fortunate in my endeavors to "going the monkey,'' and also carried off the prize for the arithmetic race. But in the potato race, although I finished first, I had to submit to 'the ignominy of disqualification for "kicking (over) the bucket." On the 24th a large shark came swimming close to.the nhip (looked upon i>y seamen as •■•, very bad omen), and on the day following we were among the flying fish. On the 26th we reached San Juan, capital of the island of Porto Rieo, in the West Indies. Porto Rico is a, protectorate of the United Stales of America. The harbor of San .Tunn is very spacious and very beautiful. It is guarded a*t the entrance by an old st>:'.e fortress, El Morro. built conspicuously on a headland, as its name implies. Passing close in to the shore by a post that was sticking up out of the water, a pelican, like a'.wise old owl, could be seen perched on the top. Quite a number of these peculiar-looking birds were seen during the day.

DIVING FOR COINS. As at St. Vincent, when I. was there in I 1914, a number of nigger boys came round the steamer in small boats and dived for coins thrown into the water by the passengers. They are particularly clever at this sport, and 1 don't remember ever seeing a boy miss getting a coin. The town of San Juan is built on the west side of a high tongue of land running north and south. From the shore of the harbor it rises in clearly-defined terraces to the crest of tiic ridge. Over the hill behind the town is a line promenade stretching for a couple of miles along the open sea coast whereon the great ocean rollers forever furiously dash themselves, 'and whet the air, tempered by the gentle sea breeze, affords a welcome change to the townsfolk from the tropical heat of the harbor. San .Tuan is dirty, ill-paved, and over-run with American .officials. A battalion of U.S.A. infantry is quartered there, and' everywhere you turn you seem to meet soldiers turned out in the slovenly uniform of the American army.

The Governor's palace appears to be a comfortable building, but is by no means grand, and is quite overshadowed by the Bishop's palace. From the harbor *he most conspicuous building in the

town itself is the cathedral, but more conspicuous still are the military barracks, lying a little to the left of the town and at the crest of the ridge. We departed from San Juan at 5 p.m., steaming north along the coast, and then turning west between Porto Rico and Haiti, across the Caribbean Sea to Colon, which port we reached on the morning of the 30th. COSMOPOLITAN COLON. On approaching Colon one sees low hills rising gently from the shore, fringed with palms and dotted w'ali small white houses half hidden among (lie trees. In front on an islet, now joined to the mainland, is the town. It is a new town, not vol a century old, built ori : ginaliy as the terminal of the railway, but now of vastly more importance by the building of the Panama Canal. Rehind the town-higher hills, covered with those thick light green woods that characterise the tropics, cut off the view to the south. One would expect to see a depression at the point where the canal cuts through them, but hone is visible. It is hard to realise that another ocean lies beyond, only fifty miles away. We were informed by the U.S.A. officials that we could not land unless our passports had been vised by the American Consul-General in London. Few of us had taken the trouble to have this done, and others, including myself, had been informed by the American Consulate that jt was unnecessary, so that we were feeling very disappointed at not being able to go ashore, and very disgusted with Americans in general." However, after all, those whose papers were in order had passed the authorities, to the latter's satisfaction, the others, after giving theis family histories, a detailed record of theSr careers, and filling up innumerable forms, were also issued with shore passes. It took quite ten minutes to pass each passenger, very much to our annoyance, when it ensued that our passes required to be produced neither on going ashore iiior oh returning to the siiip. 1 was on shore in time to lunch

at tlie Hotel Washington. It- is a magnificent hotel with splendid gardens and fine swimming baths. J spent the whole •of the afternooon in the baths, then as the air became cooler took a stroll through the town, dined at the Washington, and walKed through the native quarter before returning to the steamer at 11 o'eloejc. Colon is, 1 think, the Homiest town I have seen. The Americans have made a huge success <\f-the place, the! bnijdings are of an iilpsl type for the climate, the streets are broad, there is sufficient space everywhere, a profusion of vegetation, beautiful plazas and avenues well laid opt. The sanitation appears to l:e perfect.

After dinner,, the cafes, and they are innumerable, are crowded with perhaps the most cosmopolitan crowds to be seen in the world to-day. All the men seem to have plenty of money to spend, and spend it. Dancing is in progress all the time. The men dance with their hats on, no coats, shirts only, collars sometimes, and always a leather belt. Englishmen, Americans, half-Wooded Spaniards, Mexicans, citizens of Panama and Columbia, Chinese and Japanese, Portuguese from the Brazils, negroes from the Indies and from Africa, even from the Antipodes, are gathered together to drink and foot a measure to the music, of a, real jazz or ragtime band.

THROUGH THE CANAL, Next morning, at eight o'clock, commenced the voyage through the Canal. On leaving Colon the route lies for two or three miles S.W. across the Bay of Limon to the valley of the Chagres River. Here are the great Oatun Locks. There are three locks, built of concrete, with a total rise of 85 feet by which vessels are lifted up into Gatun Lake. This lake has an area of 134 square miles. The channel across the lake varies from 85 to 45 feet in depth, sufficient for the largest ships. After crossing- the lake, a lake enclosed in rich forests, with vistas of forest-girt islets stretching far off to right and left among the hills, the prettiest part of the Canal is reached. Here the forest is so dense, the spaces between the tree-trunks filled by shrubs, and the boughs bound together by climbing plants into a' wall of living green, that one cannot see more than a few yards into the thicket. Hardly a trail of any kind is to be seen, and a mile or two back the ferocious animals and deadly boa constrictor's that abound in these regions have the place all to themselves. There are some twenty miles of this sort of country before the valley of the Chagres is left branching off among the hills to the eas"t. The railway bridge lhat spans the river is clearly visible from the passing steamer.

The Canal now passes through a region of low-lying hills. I call them low, as none of them exceeds about a thousand feet. But they, are set so close together, that it would be hard to find a stretch of level country anywhere about. The woods have linen mostly cut away except cm the heights, a short way back from the Canal, which still have their sides clothed in a dense growth. Passing through the Cnlcbra Cut, which does not impress one quite as much as expected, although it is the deepest open cutting in the world, at one point the depth of the cutting being 272 feet, you come to the Pedro Miguel Lock. This is a lock l>y which the canal is lowered 30 feet, to a small artificial lake formed by a long dam built across the valley at a spot, called Mirafiores, where we find two more locks by which vessels are lowered another fw feet to the level of (ho Pacific. Thence the Canal runs straight out. into the ocean, here so shallow that a deep-water channel has been dredged out for some miles, and -a great dyke or mole erected alcmg its eastern side to keep the Southerly current from silting rip the harbor. Now that the Canal lias been negotiated a. few points may be noted for comparison between this Canal at Panama, and that at Suez, which 1 passed through in 1010. They are very similar in that their lengths are almost the sait;.', Panama 54 miles and Suez (10 miles; they both run almost due north and south; the continents which eacli separates are gigantic. But here the likeness ends, for whereas at Suez the Canal rims across a dreary, monotonous waste of shifting sands, at Panama one passes through a group of verdant islets, then a region of trackless forests of tropical luxuriance, and lastly a tossing sea of forest-clothed hills. At Suez the whole region is a dry and healthy one, but Panama had, isitil quite recently, a climate so deadly \hat no white man could survive It,

INTO THE PACIFIC. Kme-ging from the narrow passage of the Canal into the spacious harbor of Balboa, we come to anchor in the shadow of the great hill of Ancon, pretty villas surrounded by grass slopes nestling all along its sides. Hove arc the offices of the civil government of the Canal zone, and the huge hospital'that has dono so much towards the success of this huge enterprise. On leaving Balboa and clearing the % % Hill, Panama City cava?

into view some distance to the east, with beyond the far-winding bays and promontories of the Gulf of Panama and the distant ranges in Marion, some peak among which Balboa climbed and made his great discovery.

VVc left Panama behind on the evening of the '3lst, and headed direct for the "Land of the Incas." The Spanish adventurers of the 16th century advanced from Panama southwards down the West Coast. The pluck and endurance of Pizarro and his followers can only be fully appreciated on the spot. It is hard to believe ii possibh that the old "conquistadorcs," clad in steel armor, with steel helmet-: on their heads,.carrying heavy (inns, could successfully march through a sun-parched barren coastal district, up rocky defiles, over grim mountain barriers into regions totally unknown and tenanted by innumerable foes.> The western seaboard formed the base of operations for Pizarro's forces, and under the rule of Old Spain the farmers and herdsmen of the Argentine were governed from the vice-regal palace at Lima. Thus matters of historical interest abound Lima on the Peruvian coast, whence access is now easily obtainable to the ruins of the Inca civilisation.

GLIMPSE OP PERU. Our first port of call in Peru was Salaverry, which we reached on Vebrnury 0, the anniversary of the birth of my respected fattier. Here the coast-line is very dry and barren, hills'of sand rising up from the water's edge and no,; a sign of vegetation anywhere. 'The town is but a small collection of wooden and corrugated iron huts, clustering together at the landward end of a small wharf. The town serves as the port for the large sugar plantations inland, and the historical old town of Truxillo. Truxillo, one of the largest towns in the north of Peru, lies about four miles inland from Salaverry, and is connected with it by railway. It was founded by the Spanish conquerors, under the leadership of Pi/.rro. Near by are the ruins of Chan■an, a city of the Chinese tribe of

dians. ' Unfortunately there was not .me to visit the place, as we called at Salaverry only for the purpose of shifting a few hundred sacks of sugar, and as soon as these were on board we \v?r ( , o fl' again to Callao, which we reached early next morning.

Callao, the chief port of Peru, is, next to Valparaiso, the most important port on tiie west coast of South America. It affords one of the very few artificial havens on the coast, the harbor work?, embracing a total area of 250 acres. The town, with a population of 40,000, is a busy one. over 500.000 tons of cargo being dealt with in a year. The barren island of San Lorenzo protects the roidsfead to the south, whilst in the opposite direction stretches the welcome green of the Ritnac valley. The towers of Lima's churches and the purp'e hilts behind them, complete the vista as the vessel steams into the harbor. No movement is allowed in the port after fi p.m.

Wo were on shore very soon after breakfast, and after a visit to the English Club boarded a tram-car, And in SO minutes were in Lima, seven miles distant. Lima, on the River Rimac, is the capital of Peru, with a population of 150,000. The wide and fertile plain on which it stands slopes by a gentle gradient down to the Sea. The Andes, whose higher ranges advance to within 50 miles, send their foot-hills to the gateways of the city. The surrounding hills keep tfu" the colder winds from the Andes, whilst the cool breezes rrom the Pacific temper the ardor of the sun. Built ill the shape of a triangle, the streets run straight and intersect at right angles. Well kept squares vary the aspeet. Many of the fine old Spanish houses with tileir carved doors and overhanging balconies, remain to furnish the old-world charm' which is to be found to perfection in the ancient convents and churches. Modern activities also are 'much in evidence, the streets abound with life, and many of the- later buildings are remarkably fine. The railway, which runs from Lima to Oroya and Lerro de Pasco, is the highest in the world, the greatest altitude being 15,065 feet.

THE SPORT OP THE SP&JISH. I had luncheon in the. restaurant at the Zoological Gardens, but had not time to look round the Gardens themselves, which, according to the opinion of others, are very fine. Across the river is the bull-ring, whence every Sunday morning- the "sports" of the city wend their way to view the best bull-fighting to be seen in South America to-day. In the plazas, in accordance with the immemorial Spanish custom, all the youtli and beauty of the city parade on Sun-day-evenings to the strains of military music.

Lima was one of the chief towns under the ancient regime of the Incas, and was the capital city of the whole continent under Spanish colonial rule, and is today one of the best known and most attractive cities .of all America.. The <6ld Halt of the :nquisition, with a very fine carved roof, still stands; there, is the cathedral with a magnificent silver altar and the remains of P/warro, the conqueror of Peru, and the Pasco Colon, a most ancient, beautiful and'fashionable promenade.

We left Lima in time to be on board again by 0 p.m., and stood awhile on the deck watching in Callao harbor the sharks, bonitos and sea-liona that abound in these waters, so that the swarms of small fish thereabouts have a lively if sumewhat precarious existence. i February oth found us at Mollendo, the last port of call in Peru. This <town, with u population of 5000, depends for its prosperity and importance entirely on its forming the seaport for Arequipa, 107. miles inland, and being the terminal of a railway to Bolivia. The. whole appearance of the- town denotes its devotion to use, not ornament. Arequipa, with a population of 35,000, is full of quaint old Spanish buildings, which include many ancient and'-interesting churches, and the streets present, as quaint a moving panorama, as those of any city in the world. It stands at an altitude of 7,«00 feet in the midst of a beautiful valley at ihe foot of the great mountain, El Misti, 18,!)00 feet high. ' On the 11th we were at Arica, the most northern port in Chile, and at present the subject of a very bitter dispute between Chile, Bolivia and Peru. This town is built at the foot of the Morro (headland), and is fringed by sandhills. The Morro, a miniature Gibraltar, was the scene «tf a great battle fought in the war of IS7S) between the Chilian and Peruvian forces. The Chilians, after effecting a landing to the south, stormed this rock from the land, and throw the Peruvians into the sea. As the rock commands the town, Arica was very soon in the hands of Chile, and has since then formed her northern outpost. Early on the morning of the lSth. we were, at Jqtiique, only a few years ago , the seeond port of Chile (after Valparaiso), but now ousted from that position I by Antifogasta. It is a tOWO ot about

GO,OfK) inhabitants, is built on the shores of an open bay like most of the other nitrate ports, and presents a similar appearance—wooden buildings, no vegetation, arid wastes as far as the eye can see. to north and south, and the barren sea-cordillera rising a short distance behind the town. On the morning of the 13th we were in Antofogasta Bay, and jt was not long before I once again set foot in the town that I had left just five and a-half years ago, hardly thinking to ever see. it again. [Mr. Hurle Chili when war broke out. He at.once wont to England, studied for a commission, secured it, fought throughout the war, gaining his captaincy by conspicuous service in the field.—Kd.i