Woman's World

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LVI, Issue 209, 4 March 1914, Page 6

Woman's World

SI'KIXfi FASHIONS. By Cubit—Prt*s Association—Copyright London, March 2. The spring fashions in I'aria show vigorous attempts to introduce bright Coloring-. There are strong leanings still toward- the tight skirt, nevertheless tailor-mades are simplicity itself. Continue!- are mainly black with touches of white in the form uf'iine lawn turned hack collar and cud'.-', suggestive of widows" weeds. The most ,favored shades are gold-, yellows and fawns. ■■ FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON London, January 18. . Blouses that for some considerable -time been somewhat cold-shouldered, .while one-piece gowns have been boom,cd, have suddenly sprung into their old prominence and become, as New Zealand girls—who. as used to be said in ones youth in New Zealand, are such good jiands at making blouses—will delight to hear, important affairs of the moment. Whereas the fashion of the last two -or three seasons ba< inclined to slender •plainness, the newest effects are broad, white blouses, for instance, having broad panels of colored material forming the ■pouch above the waist, many sporting .pleats on the .shoulder that fall into loose folds further down, others with braces, etc. Braces are of a new description, rolled and of heavier material than the blouse, not lace or net as of old. One very striking model of this week was of the ■rather unusual combination of fine felt cloth and silk voile, the former deep wedgwood blue and the latter white. The blouse itself had the inevitable ■V-sliapp.il opening at the neck, this bein" finished with neat Title frills of tulle, as on the end's, while the cloth

braces were rolled and then crossed over at tlie front and folded round the ■waist. Very pretty blouses for slender wearers are being made of accordeon-pleat-ed soft wool voile, witli narrow yokes •of the plain material hand embroidered in light colored silks. Woollen voile is again a general favorite, it is ,to be noted. Another contribution to the wide effect is a tab on the pouch of white voile, piped with a color, introduced elsewhere also, and i with, set on it, a double row of colored opaque buttons pendant from slender "plaits of silk of the same color. ( ! Kino brocaded velvet is another medi ium for blouses for matrons. This is •usually laid on in the form of inverted ,large V-shaped panels over.ninon. At other times the velvet makes a bolero and sometimes rich tapestry velvet is introduced underneath pleats to look like, a waistcoat. Faggoting and long shoulder effects are still fashionable. Cuffs, when there tare any, are narrow, and as ; often edged with fine drill as not. A DRAI'ED SKIRT EFFECT, that can he fairly easily attained by a home dressmaker, has made its debut with a new black material, a sort of thick, soft, yet, one would hazard, extremely durable hopsack. The skirt il pleated 011 to a high waist belt with stitched vertical tucks, while at the knees in the straight front panel, and that alone, is a horizontal pleat about an inch and a half wide and stitched only at the top. This last should be arranged before those at the waist, in order that llu; ell'ect, which should be very smart, may be judged. chess board hats. could easily enough be fashioned at home for those who can wear them—that is to say, those inevitable lucky tall and slender ones!—for they are simply made of two or three different •colored corded ribbons an inch or an J inch and a half in width, plaited through •one another as in basket work. A vel■vet band to match the darkest color used then finishes the toque. 1 Kon,.\un KOK WINTKK WEAR

seems an unsuitable material, and used as it is, it would surely become not one wearer in twenty, l'or in colors sometimes it hears 110 r-iation to the main medium of the g.m -i 011 which it appears. Thus on an afternoon gown with !a higli-waisted draped skirt of soft black sill; wii! appear a loose blouse-top of dark Km- and while small checked foulard. I'KATII K!I, are rather new idea.-. Shaped like poi balls, they are m bri.M. tin■ feathers, evidently giini'red on >0 a hard surface, and are worn on ;!outside lirim of black toque*. gen i';!' pointing outwards. I!.'VV ( ir.:)l;KI) (.'OWNS seem 10 be trying to come into fashion, but in an oil' season, it is safe to prophesy, will not be allowed their own way. A good tiling this, for, so far, there is none of the rich luxuriance •that characterised the "Oriental season" of some time hack, when greens, purples, red*, yellows, blacks and blues fell into each other's arms in beautiful harmony. The most successful of the new dresses following this was ,an evening gown of this week with a foundation •of white satin, a short tunic of black shadow lace, silver insertion at the dceolletagc and 011 the short sleeves, am\ a touch of shrimp at the belt. ratl'LE AND (JHEEX IIAIR! According lo reports, which may or may not he, a woman suspects, correct, though they appear in respectable English papers, Paris has fallen beneath the heels of a craze for wildly unnatural tinted hair, and women are appearing at functions with green, bright yellow, snow white, and even purple hair —wigs, of course.

A .MAGNIFICENT (JOWN tliat coulil be worn either by a very dark or fair woman was sketched in a fashion paper recently, in which the main colors were deep violet, mauve, •and canary yellow. It would probably bear modilicat.ions, but here is a description of how it was made that may be useful as a guide. The ma in portion of the dress was of canary ninon, over which came a tunic of violet, and mauve liroche velvet ninon, with threads of gold glinting through. At each side, •from the waist downwards, a long oval panel of f>okl embroidered mauve ninon was let in. and a fringe of yold bea'ds, long over the hips and short in front, hung round the waist. L'olds of canary ninon formed the corsage, which was in a long V fhape, a pretty touch being given by embroidered bands of violet velvet, which were threaded through the ninon back and front and taken over the arms in a slanting direction. -The waistbelt was fairly wide and of i pleated violet velvet, with, at the top in front, a little upturned box-pleated I frill of ninon. ,Shoes of violet satin studded all over with gold beads made ] an effective "lust touch" to the dress.

INFANTILE PARALYSIS,

THE DU.XiJCIHX OUTISKEAK. Thirty cases of infantile paralysis haV(! been reported in Ota»o, ami it is believed by medical authorities that now the disease is listed as being compnlsorily notifiable, the total will be found to be not less than all. Of the known total. 27 eases are ill the city and suburbs, of the lesser number the majority are in localities adjacent to the City Corporation's refuse tip. Within half a mill; from one of the'main refuse dumps in the city, there were, nine eases.

The fact that a large proportion of the cases of infantile paralysis in the city are in the vicinity of garbage depots docs not prove conclusively (states the Dunedin Star) that the disease originated from that source. Experts are not prepared to acknowledge any direct connection. There is still great scope for differences of opinion as to the causes of the disease. Some doctors assert that the outbreak of infantile paralysis has no connection with the city's crude disposal of garbage and rubbish. Other representatives of the medical profession are positive that there is more than mere coincidence in the fact that the worst cases of infantile paralysis are in localities adjacent to the breeding grounds of Hies and rats. The diversity of expert opinion does not effect the necessity for the erection of a destructor. Exposed, rotting garbage, and filthy rubbish cannot be conducive to the health of a large community. It has to be admitted, however, that there are cases of infantile paralysis in localities where the municipal authorities do not scatter rubbish, and there are several cases in absolutely (clean dwelling. It is suspected by some medical observers that the numerous stables in the city an.l suburbs [have a little to do with the disease that is attacking children.