WOMAN'S WORLD

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIV, Issue 272, 14 May 1912, Page 6

WOMAN'S WORLD

- (Conducted by "Eileen"). J FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON. ! _ London, March 22. j Fashion is a subject over which it would never do to grow ironic at the best of times, one of which this period of strife and stress certainly is not, for ( its good points are almost as transparent •is its many bad ones. Its nine-day wonders after nine days become, if notless startling to us as individuals, yet settled to comfortable commonplaces to the feminine public in general, which is ever something of a protection to the others. The very careless ease, too, with which Dame Fashion pursues Tier even; selfish course, regardless of purse, suitability and sometimes of taste, develops, at a time like this, into a virtue. Vk hile yet more and more great manufactories are closing down and dismissing their hundreds and thousands of workers on account of the coal strike, when theatres are suffering so badly that long lines of empty seats have compelled managers to decide that "short runs only" must be the fate of every play produced at present, when prayers of intercession are being offered every day in the church for a cessation of the strike, when, from the King to the humblest of his subjects, arrangements are being upset through sympathy or dire necessity, still Fashion remains imperturbable—a monarch wielding just as despotic a sway J as if all werp going well. This week two very definite fashions have "arrived." One that has shown signs of popularity for some past week is a color, and that the mustard shade, of which mention was made last week. This week it shows in everything, from feather boas to ham trimmings, from those to pipings, revers j and buttons on, coats and skirts, from j whole costumes to evening coats, boots, ] shoes, stockings and blouses.

A NEW MATERIAL. ] The second novelty is a cloth, called ' by some bath-towel cloth, by the initiated drap d'esponge. The "first named, though certainly not expressing its ele-, gance well, yet gives an idea of its ap-' pearance which would rank it own sister to a not too bulky or fluffy bath towel; it is rather a cross between that and the "oatmeal cloth" of 20 years ago. What mustard is among colors drap d'esponge is among materials, sharing honors with shot taffetas in being absolutely queen of the dress world. Tt is made in all sorts of colors, though mainly in light fawns, mustard, blue, green, white, grey, mauve, etc. Crystal or dull gilt buttons generally finish coats and skirts of it, with revers of face cloth, charmeuse, taffetas, or itself in a contrasting shade.

PANIERS NOT A SUCCESS. According to a certain Court dressmaker, she is having some trouble with her clients, who flatly refuse to let her garb them in paniers! After the gratifying failure of the harem to become fashion law in England when a Parisian man-designer ordered that it should be, there is hope that Englishwomen may set their wills against the old-fashioned panier that will all too probably follow the modified shape now fairly general on evening gowns. Already one dressmaker is trying to bring back paniers so arranged as to look like bustles at the back of the skirts.

BOUQUET REVERS. Bouquet revers—that is, wide white silk revers painted with daisies, carnations, roses, violets, daffodils, and various kinds of greenery, and looking very garish—are showing this week.

ORIENTAL NOTE FADING. The Oriental note, apparently so distinct at the conclusion of the sales and beginning of the spring styles, has faded away before the introduction of shot silks, and is not now much seen. Russian embroideries, however, are as small yokes on serge and silk indoor gowns, collars above the revers on coats and skirts, and as decolletage trimming, the last generally under ninon or mmissel in e de soie on evening confections.

SCARVES. Scarves still remain, though it is doubtful whether they'll live through a third year of intense popularity. One very effective one of this week might be copied by a girl fond of stencilling, and was of black ninon stencilled all over in gold in a design of small ivy leaves. The edges were of black charmeuse. The same design in silver on white would-be very pretty. LONG SLEEVES.

Very long sleeves are to be noted on practically all the newest gowns for the * street and the reception room. These are straight, but fairly loose, and are generally made of the' silk or, at any rate, the color with which the dress is trimmed, and not the material of which it is made. Ruchings of Valenciennes face edge most of the sleeves, which are pointed, and made to fall over the hand. Shot silk blouses only show elbow sleeves, again edged with full, narrow frills of lace, which appears also as a side jabot. MILLINERY. Very thin ostrich feather*, and yery fnartistie ones, be it whispered, in mus'fard color or white, trim many of the latest hats, which themselves are of dark straw. Without any regard for beauty or grace, these expensive wispy arrangements are trailed round a crown, or stand stark upright like the signal of ft lost fight in ostrich land. Large three-cornered black velvet hats, with the turned-back bryn showing rows upon rows of cream Valenciennes lace over white satin, are again popular. EAR-RINGS. Ear-rings have returned to favor with renewed vigor, and at all big receptions, concerts, etc., it is the exception to see a well-dressed woman, without them. All descriptions, too, are seen, some of them very large, with wide stones in the centre, surrounded with bands of gold. With the accession of mustard color to its throne amber has become a popular gem, and hat pins, buttons hair combs, necklaces, etc., of amber enjoy the reputation of being ''the" ornaments, of the season. MAKING USE OF A SOILED NLOUSE. A soiled white blouse of silk or satin, which appears beyond another cleaning, but still holds the prospect of long life, can easily be made at home into something quite presentable. A magyar slip of not too transparent black ninon will cover its deficiencies yet show any trimming, and the neck should be collarless, and the sleeves elbow-length only, and both finished with soft white lace." A DAINTY BELT. A home-made belt that is very daintycan be made of black suede, on which an intricate cross-stitch design, on which an canvas, which is afterwards pulled off, is embroidered in dull silver threads. When a normal waist belt is worn very narrow belts are the smartest, and those worn just now are of folded black satin, plain patent leather, and of the latter ornamented with lots of tiny white buttons. The woman who likes to appear very slim-waisted may like to know that small white buttons* clustered into a pyramid design at the back of the belt will give grace to the figure. A DRESSMAKING HINT. A good bodice stand can be made by filling an old close-fitting bodice with a pillow and tile sleeves with stockings, etc., in order to make the arrangement of trimming on a new bodice less difficult to the amateur.