WOMAN'S WORLD.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIV, Issue 133, 27 November 1911, Page 6

WOMAN'S WORLD.

(Contributed by "Eileen.") CHANGES IN LONDON FASHIONS THE ALL-COXQUERIXG FRINGE. London, October <j. August, said some wit recently, went out like a lion; October has come in like a Polar bear. It is not yet winter, according to the calendar, but summer, with us in golden glory only three weeks ago, now seems a long while gone. A good many small changes are to be noticed again this week, the principal being a novelty widely sported. That is a back panel to coats and skirts, not separate as we had it in the season just passer, but a continuation now of the coat. It is joined on at the high waist-line at the back. This is finished round the edges with fairly broad black braid, and edged with black fringe, and the fringe is appearing on practically every outside garment we see in London. 'lt trims fur stoles, muffs, fur coats, evening and day tunics, felt and velvet hats, handbags, blouses, sergo gowns, and satin petticoats.

MUFFS. ' These are decidedly flatter this year, and many, instead of being all fur, have strips of it only, with strips of quilted, pleated, or ruched satin or ninon to match the fur, over lace of another shade. Fur stoles have pleated satin frills round the edges. STRIPES "IX" AGATX. Stripes, fashionable in soft and delicate fabrics in the spring and summer, are apparently to be as popular again, and now are seen in velvet and cloth, the latter mostly in dark greys, greens or purples, with a well-dclined black stripe. In one shop window this week I saw rich black velvet veined with green stripes made of tiny bead?. Black velvet striped with white is being made up into very stylish coats and skirts, with collars and cuffs of ermine or of fluffy white lambswool.

Black and white is, it is said, going to lie very fashionable, but, though a good many models are shown, there is little change to record. One rather unusual evening gown was of cream satin under cream ninon, the skirt having two three-cornered, turn-up revers at the hem, made of black velvet. An effective, expensive, but simjilo blouse seen had a foundation made of creamy fine net and an overslip of strips of black-and-white ninon, joined together by a faggoting of very fine white insertion, and with the undervcst forming yoke, collar and cuffs. At intervals down the strips of ninon were very tiny round steel buttons. THE SHORT-WAISTED EFFECT. It is said in Paris .that the short waist bad killed itself, but is by no means defunct, and most of the new models, whether velvet house gowns, evening dresses, or coats and skirts, show this style. Many evening gowns, as last year, have tiny sleeveless coats, frilled at the high waist-line, of fine creamy lace. Girdles are certainly "out" —none have been seen for some weeks. NECK RUFFLES. New neck ruffles are made of crepe de chine in such shades as mole, French blue, etc., tightly ruchcd, with no ends visible anywhere, but as if made of a continuous length of silk, to a depth of about an inch and a-quarter. NINON AND FUR. These go well together, and one pretty blouse was of delicate pastel blue ninon over soft white satin, with braces of ninon edged with narrow grey squirrel fur. Shoulder scarves of gently ruched ninon mounted on satin are edged, too, with fur. and have .the ends ornamented with ninon rosebuds. MILLINERY.

Feathers and wings are undoubtedly prime favorite in millinery trimming, and, for wet and damp weather wear, undoubtedly the latter are suitable, but it does seem a pity that flowers, which are so wonderfully imitated now, do not become more universally popular. There is so much more scope for originality in them, and wing trimming—save for the pretty mercury variety—is practically only of the feather-duster type, so far, and very ugly. The wool craze for trimming has spread to hats, and some of the newest toques are of white wool trimmed with colors. A dear little hat—almost a toque—has become fashionable. but is only, really! for the petite woman, or at any rate she of undoubtedly youthful appearance, since it is a sort of diminutive. Dolly Vardeu shape, and ruthlessly—in its lack of shady brim—shows up wrinkles. The crown is generally round and not high, the brim is rounded and dips very slightly at the sides, and very little trimming is called for. Generally a wreath of small (lowers or a coquettish rose at each side is sufficient.

A young French girl the writer talked to this week looked a delightful picture on a sombre London day. Mademoiselle is slender, with dark' brown hair, which she always docs becomingly, with brown eyes and a good color, though bv no means a delicate skin. Her gown was of pale grey cashmere, a little higli-waisted, with a soft pleated grey satin belt finished just under the corsage with a long, rather Hat bow. The V-shaped vest and the oufl's at the elbow were of creamy Maiines lace, and a cascade of the same laee filled in the vest rather low down, so that the top of the rounded yoke, was left plain. The collar and the top of the cravat had two plain bands of silk—and this gave a distinctive touch to the whole dress — in two harmonising shades of pale mole. The elbow sleeces of grey cashmere, fairlv wide at the bottom, bad bands of grey satin loosely folded finishing I hem. a7id deliacte frills of Malines lace showed underneath and over a plain cuff of lace. With this a bla>:k channeuse long coat was worn, and one of the new small Dollv Vardcn hats in-black satin, with a wreath of holly ber-ies and small leaves around thee rown. A VSEI'UL HINT.

Instead of si arching net blouses or tics ])iit tlicm through a weak solution of <>niii water. or use a solution of borax in tin! proportion of one tablespoonful to two quarts of water. Lace or mn-lin treated in tliis way Ims a newer ami Mift.-r look tlial "'lien .starched.

TO FPvKSHKX SKUCIE. Ait excellent lnei hod of renovating blue .~erge that looks slialiliv is to rub it with a piece of cloth well soaked in a mixture eoinpo-ed o( two ounces of >piriis of wine anil an ounce of liquid ammonia. It is well to rememVr that this ''serge tonic" wffl evaporate very iinicklv. ' SMOOTH IROXLXG. ' A wrinkle that may be new to the home 'hiumlrc-s is that a few drops of turpentine added to starch keeps tne iron siimolli and clean. Nothing, however, better secures cleanliness and sniootlme-s than the old way of cutting up odds and ends of candles, putting them into a b:<". rubbing this over the iron when il i- l! "t. 1-KM IN INT. I'UIUA Three-quarter length coats prevail in (lie new 'si tailoy-hapes. Rich ami goi-i;eoik blues have a leading place in millinery. High skirt, blonde, and long coat are often of velvet.

With the promise of wider skirts come ruffles and pleatings at the foot. The three-flounced skirt shows itself among the autumn styles. Handsome costumes in velvet and corduroys are prepared for autumn wear. Cut crystal is one of tl» trimming materials indicated for the autumn and l winter. The side frill is not only a lingerie affair, but part of most dressy afternoon gowns. Serges and light weight woollens are tailored to an extreme point of neatness. Silk serges are for smart afternoon gowns. Oil some gowns sailor collars in the brightest of satins are veiled witii chiffon to imiatoh the dres®. Even on underskirts silk fringes are arranged in the colors of the material. Most of the high-crowned hats are narrow of brim, thus accentuating their height. 'Fringes of every kind are to grace evening gowns. Whilst black-and-white striped velvets stil remain, black-and-white figured velvets are deemed extremely smart. The most novel of all velvets, perhaps, are the changeable ones —those where the pile is black and the underground blue, green, cerise, puq>le, etc. From her bat to her coat, dress and liandbag, even to the tips of her dainty shoes, the daime of fashion will be gowno'd in velvets during the coming season.